Jump to content

Rattle In Headliner On 2009 Silverado


Recommended Posts

Posted

Here is my problem: My headliner in my brand new Silverado occasionally has something rattling above it. It's actually right over my head, and even though it's not very loud, it bothers me since it is so close to my ears. If I touch the headliner with just the slightest pressure, the rattle stops. I am assuming it's just a wire bouncing around up there since the onstar module is in the same location. At first it was rattling frequently (almost every trip) but now it only does it once a week or so and usually only for a minute or two. My dilemma is this: Do I just let it go and hope it stops altogether, or do I take it to the dealer and risk them getting their oily hands all over my headliner, or pulling it down and not re-installing it properly. I hate to have the headliner damaged since it is perfect right now. So, should I take it it to the dealer, or should I wait and see if it stops (or stops enough for me to live with)?

Posted

My 08 Tahoe did this. I kept pushing on the headliner on long trips when it would drive me crazy. It has since stopped (at least I dont hear it anymore). I was in the same boat as you scared to take it in because I knew it would never be the same and at least with the rattle it was clean, The 09 Silverado I test drove a few wks ago had the same rattle. Must be a wide spread flaw.

Posted

My '08 Sierra had this same problem when I first bought it. I took it to the dealer, who said that the headliner was making contact with the sheet metal on the underside of the cab roof (evidently something they'd seen before). They just dropped the headliner and added some padding between the two and the problem hasn't occurred since.

 

The dealer I went to did not leave ANY marks on the headliner (I actually saw them wearing clean latex gloves while working on it) and had no problems whatsoever getting it back into place properly. It's just held in with clips like the rest of the interior is, so it's really no big deal.

 

If you're worried about your dealer messing it up, just put them on notice that if they do they'll be replacing the headliner at their expense under warranty. That may motivate them to take the same precautions my dealer took with my truck.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I had the same issue on my 2011 Tahoe, the headliner rattled right above and slightly behind the driver's head. The cause is the anti-flutter foam that they put in the roof beam support, sometimes it settles (or they don't use enough), and since the stuff is very sticky and tacky, you'll get a squeak/rattle noise.

 

The fix is to put stiff foam blocks in between the roof and the roof support beam. You can also add more anti flutter foam, but it's expensive, you need a special caulking gun to use it, and plain old foam blocks works just as well.

 

Unfortunately you have to drop the headliner to do it, but as the previous poster said, it's not a big deal. My GM dealer doesn't do any of their own interior work, they sub all of it out to a local auto upholstery shop. It took them 2 hours to drop my headliner and fix the rattle.

 

So I'd definitely recommend going to the dealer and having it fixed, from what I understand it's a fairly common issue.

Posted

Document ID: 2017072 #PIT4340B: Roof Panel Flutters When Closing Doors - keywords block body

bow door flex foam flutter metal noise rattle roof sheet vibrates - (Sep 24, 2007)

 

Subject:

Roof Panel Flutters When Closing Doors

 

Models:

2007-2008 Cadillac Escalade, ESV, EXT

2007-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

2007-2008 Silverado ( Crew Cab Models Only)

2007-2008 GMC Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

2007-2008 GMC Sierra (Crew Cab Models Only)

 

This PI was superseded to update models and model years. Please discard PIT4340A.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Some customers may have a concern where the roof panel flutters when closing one of the front side

doors. This may be caused by the excessive motion of roof panel. On initial inspection, you may

notice that the roof panel expansion adhesive material has separated between the roof and the roof

bow. The concern is seen mostly on the first cross bow.

 

Recommendation/Instructions:

To repair the concern, insert stiff foam blocks between the roof panel and roof bow to "pre-load" roof

panel as show in the photo below.

 

Note: The protective foam block used on the doors of fullsize trucks during shipping from the

assembly plant can be used.

Posted

My 08 still does this, seems to be worse when its colder out.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

"My 08 still does this, seems to be worse when its colder out."

 

+1

Posted

I had the same problem. I figured it was just the headliner vibrating. I took the dome light out stuffed a few plastic grocery bags around the whole and have not had the problem since.

Posted

I found the microphone for Onstar loose in the overhead area and clipping it back into place made a world of difference. That was on my Cruze, not my GMC but I think they're very similar.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

I'm battling this in my '09 Suburban. Becomes much worse when I slide open the sunroof cover (not opening the sunroof).

 

Sounds like a cable or something is bouncing in the roof somewhere. While under warranty, I took it to the dealer and they inserted "anti rattle foam". That cured the issue for a long time, but now, unfortunately, I'm out of the warranty period and it's back.

Posted

Have you been in contact with the dealer and let them know that this concern has returned? They may be able to assist you further being that this was once repaired under warranty. Keep me posted and feel free to contact me if you need additional assistance. Thank you.

 

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

 

I'm battling this in my '09 Suburban. Becomes much worse when I slide open the sunroof cover (not opening the sunroof).

 

Sounds like a cable or something is bouncing in the roof somewhere. While under warranty, I took it to the dealer and they inserted "anti rattle foam". That cured the issue for a long time, but now, unfortunately, I'm out of the warranty period and it's back.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...