Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 and am having issues with my ABS. When coming to a stop, the ABS will kick in when under 10ish mph. I started to happen after I changed my driver front wheel bearing. It was a cheap Ebay bearing, so, now, about 3-4 months later, I bought a new wheel bearing and installed it today to see if it changed. Nope. When I changed it a couple months ago, the ABS & Brake light would come on but reset when I would shut the truck off. The ABS pump is not having the typical issue where it runs non-stop, but it kicks in for no reason.

Posted

I'm experiencing the exact same problem. Almost caused me to rear end someone yesterday as I was almost stopped when it kicked in and then I couldnt stop anymore and almost rolled right into the back of him.

 

Theres a TSB out there 03-05-25-007d that says its caused by an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris build up on the sensor mounting surface.

 

Hopefully someone can post the TSB, for some reason I cant copy paste it.

Posted

I have been having a similar problem. I have been noticing that if I hit a bump while on the brakes, the ABS will kick in almost like I lose my brakes for a second, but I can feel the pulsation in the pedal. Then the brakes will "catch" and it's like I hit the brakes too hard all of a sudden. I also get the ABS and brake light from time to time, but it always resets once you turn the key off like the OP described.

Posted

On my '98 Silverado the mounting surface below the sensor began to corrode, causing the sensor to lift. It only lifted like a millimeter, but enough that the sensors would have issues reading. I never had an ABS light go on, but I had issues at stopping speed where my ABS would go off (pulsating pedal). This was because my front sensors could not get a good reading, didn't match with the rear wheel speed, thus a time ABS should engage. I used a wire brush to clean up the mounting surfaces, worked like a charm! Before doing this I put in a paper towel to the hole to plug it up so debris wouldn't go inside it.

Posted

Swhitney is right. The problem is called "unintended low speed ABS activation". There was a recall for trucks in the "rust belt". Undo the torx screw that holds the ABS "reader" to the hub and pull it out. Put a piece of paper towel in the hole and use some emery cloth to remove the corrosion on the mounting pad. Just a millimeter of corrosion will hold the reader far enough away from the sensor to cause low speed activation. Put some grease on the mounting pad and tighten the reader back to the hub. Problem solved.

  • Like 1
Posted
On my '98 Silverado the mounting surface below the sensor began to corrode, causing the sensor to lift. It only lifted like a millimeter, but enough that the sensors would have issues reading. I never had an ABS light go on, but I had issues at stopping speed where my ABS would go off (pulsating pedal). This was because my front sensors could not get a good reading, didn't match with the rear wheel speed, thus a time ABS should engage. I used a wire brush to clean up the mounting surfaces, worked like a charm! Before doing this I put in a paper towel to the hole to plug it up so debris wouldn't go inside it.

 

My 97 would get like this too, did as swhitey did above and cured it, for a while then had to re-do it about every year year and a half.

Posted

i had this same problem with my truck... ended up being my abs speed sensor... When my mechanic went to take them out and clean off the rust on hub they both broke... $230 each side later :lol: it drives like new again... :banghead: but was a costly repair... I could have go the sensors cheaper online but my truck was in shop with both wheels off / calipers.. and i needed it next day so the stealership was only option :thumbs:

Posted

I had the same issue, my Passenger side was already pooched, and I probably helped the issue along when I pulled the sensor out and part of it stayed in the hub assembly. Luckily, my shop had a used sensor for $30 bucks, plus an hour of shop time.

 

If you feel like it, CAREFULLY pull the sensors out, and go from there.

Posted

If and when you pull the sensors out, be prepared to buy new ones... I trust my shop , good friend of our family, and both sensors broke when they tried removing them.. Then the problem was the plastic piece stayed inside so it took them even longer to remove it.. Just prepare for the worse... :crazy:

Posted
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 and am having issues with my ABS. When coming to a stop, the ABS will kick in when under 10ish mph. I started to happen after I changed my driver front wheel bearing. It was a cheap Ebay bearing, so, now, about 3-4 months later, I bought a new wheel bearing and installed it today to see if it changed. Nope. When I changed it a couple months ago, the ABS & Brake light would come on but reset when I would shut the truck off. The ABS pump is not having the typical issue where it runs non-stop, but it kicks in for no reason.

 

Any chance you have the ABS codes?????? Cxxxx.................. Could be the control module

 

Jbo

Posted

I pulled the sensor on the passenger side and cleaned it up, came out ok, and wasn't all that dirty. It had 3 shims on it, in which i left all 3 on, but cleaned them all up. Before I even left the driveway, abs kicked in again. I pulled the fuse until I can get it to the dealer because I have had many close calls and it's getting annoying. Last night when I came home from work, just perfect, no issues....Today, I drove 1 mile over to my grandparents and it did it about 2 or 3 times that I had to slow down to stop.

Posted

those are the same symptoms i had... Did you clean rust off hub? if so then you need new sensors... If you can , avoid going to dealer for them and get them online... i needed my truck right away and only option i had was dealer and paid dearly for it

Posted

The driver sensor is brand new because it was with the bearing. Even the passenger side bearing/sensor is just over a year old and looked just fine. Unless it's my rear abs sensor, which is in the rear axle or transfer case, I'm not sure. I'm getting tired of screwing with it. The dealer can tell me what's wrong with it, because I give up

Posted

When I owned my 2001 I got a recall notice for this problem. I didn't have the problem so I never took my truck in, but I am pretty sure that GM was going to cover it. I might be worth while for you guys to look into it by calling the dealer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 519 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...