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Installing Distributor In Vortec 454


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Posted

I poste on 'Full-Size trucks'... didn't realize this part of forum[NOT the brightest 'bulb' on the tree-that's me!].

Truck died... no spark.. this distributor is BURIED in back of engine[they only made this set-up for 4 years[1996-2000]. Then they got smart and used the BMW-like 'Coil-near-plug' ign.[on the 8.1L].

 

To the point:I took the upper intake off and had the inj's flowed[only one leaking-all were within 5% flow-pretty good for 130,000 miles-bought new ones anyway]. took off cap, turned over engine.. rotor does NOT rotate!!!Took out distributor; bought new one from Napa

 

now----- how do you install distributor correctly?[i did get advice on this forum of lining up mark on housing and the indent on driven gear-and lining up oil pump shaft]. And i promise to do the drill routine with the oil pump before i put dist. in engine!

 

But, from there on, what do i do?

Posted

Here u go.

 

You should just bring #1 to TDC on the compression stroke (make sure the mark on the crank is right on the indicator) and then drop the distributor in. There should be some line-up marks on the distributor shaft that you need to line-up before installing. Drop it in with the cap off / rotor installed and when it drops all the way in the rotor should be pointing at the arrow that is cast in the distibutor (it usually has a 6 (for 6 cylinder) or 8 (for 8 cylinder) stamped on it. If it doesn't start usually it is 180 degree's out. Simply rotate the crank 360 degrees until the mark comes back around and reinstall the distributor 180 degree's back on the mark. The newer motors (post TBI) don't have adjustable timing you just have to get it close and the computer corrects it. If you aren't close enough it will start but give you a P1345 Crankshaft Camshaft Correlation Code. If you get that turn the distributor just a little while it's running until it idles smoothly, reset the code and restart. You should be fine at that point.

 

 

 

http://www.truckforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=46543

Posted
I poste on 'Full-Size trucks'... didn't realize this part of forum[NOT the brightest 'bulb' on the tree-that's me!].

Truck died... no spark.. this distributor is BURIED in back of engine[they only made this set-up for 4 years[1996-2000]. Then they got smart and used the BMW-like 'Coil-near-plug' ign.[on the 8.1L].

 

To the point:I took the upper intake off and had the inj's flowed[only one leaking-all were within 5% flow-pretty good for 130,000 miles-bought new ones anyway]. took off cap, turned over engine.. rotor does NOT rotate!!!Took out distributor; bought new one from Napa

 

now----- how do you install distributor correctly?[i did get advice on this forum of lining up mark on housing and the indent on driven gear-and lining up oil pump shaft]. And i promise to do the drill routine with the oil pump before i put dist. in engine!

 

But, from there on, what do i do?

THANKS!!! to "Shamrock"-Merry Christmas to ya!i just found the mark[#2] on balancer[i now put 'Timing tape' on it-so it won't be hard next time[?]. Black Bear and i contacted "EFI Conn". they have way to use FAR superior 'Coil-near-plug' ign. system from a 8.1L 2001-up engine. Only trouble is they are hard to find in junk yard-way too expensive from GM or MSD[600 bucks just for coils!].

 

I bought a new distributor with lifetime guarantee[$155] has REAL bearings! while i have intake off, i was at car show and a chap will polish my aluminum intake to 'chrome-like' finish for $125. I've seen this done on B/B street rods.. looks BOSS!

So while i have that done, i might as well polish theA/C compressor[i bought a new upgraded one with PINNED bearings-$185]. then i might as well buy some polished Valve covers[$125], and "Mr. Gasket" 'chrome' heater hoses [$80]and upper radiator hose[$99],right?

Then the Alternator would look 'naked' unless i had that polished,too[$50]!

 

I'll send pics!!! LOL

 

AND i STILL HAVETA get my 'Black Bear Tune'...

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