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Cold Hard Facts


jro909

Question

Posted

just looking for the facts and or opinions i suppose on cold weather start ups and such on trucks, i've read countless articles saying to not let your truck idle and or warm up, because of the oil contamination or carbon build up...let alone fuel waste..i do idle my truck until the rpms idle down to 600 range, because i feel that the rest of the fluids let alone the tranny are cold as hell..but whats the majority around here on thoughts?

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Posted

it runs at about 60ish psi at cold start up, if i drive it dead cold it rides that or higher, once it warms and idles down it goes to around 40 psi

 

btw to the other guy sorry clean is somethen else, its 5-30 high mileage

Posted

I run Mobil 1 5-30 (full syn) as well and It's been around -10 or so at night and during startup I'd say mines runs right around 60 PSI at idle. After it warms up it drops to around 40 PSI as well. Seems to be about the same regardless of temp.

 

BTW - I just hit the remote start when I'm getting ready to go out to the truck in the morning. It usually anywhere form 1 - 5 minutes depending on kid/dog/wife etc. before I make it out there.

 

A few extra minutes aren't going to hurt anything but your mileage. Plus its warmer when you get in!!

Posted
how long does it take for a tranny to warm up at idle without driving? i've heard arguments from the tranny dosen't heat unless the trucks and gear to the pumps on when the motors going(which i believe, the thing dosen't run off of plutonium)

This morning it was about 12 degrees. I normally let the engine idle long enough to put on seatbelt, choose a radio station, check gauges then go. I drive easy the first half mile or so then just drive normally. Never had a problem with this routine.

Posted
With either cold or warm ambient air temps, I always wait until the gauge moves above the lowest mark, then take it easy until it's up to normal. If it's 32 or below, I'll wait until I feel the heat warming up a slight amount.

 

That's for my '02 with 256,000 miles that's never had a major repair. I stick with what works for me and will do the same with my new 2010 when I pick it up about 2 weeks.

 

Funny thing is that the '02 has had that same "knock" since the day I bought it brand new. The "knock" that sounds like the oil pump is empty and lasts for 10 seconds or so.

 

This is what i do to. Come downstairs, go up to the shed and start my truck, come back in the house finish getting ready quick, about 5-8 minutes later go up and open the shed door and head to work. Gives it enough time for the temp gauge to move and slight head outta the vents and away i go.

 

 

Enough time to brush my teeth, put on some deodorant, put some coffee in the mug and grab whatver I need for the day.

 

My sister kills me with her M-B with the Kompressor engine. As soon as she cranks it and turns the radio on....she's gone. She came and visited me the other day and we went to get breakfast. It was about 15 F. She got in, cranked it, let me in and as soon as I buckled in....gone.

 

She'll probably trade the car in before anything happens to it. By doing this you may cut 50K of the life of the engine...if the engine lasts 450K...you could have gotten 500K....not exactly worried if it lasts for 250K+

I personally let the rpms get under 1000 before I drive away..so maybe 30sec to 1 min.

Posted
With either cold or warm ambient air temps, I always wait until the gauge moves above the lowest mark, then take it easy until it's up to normal. If it's 32 or below, I'll wait until I feel the heat warming up a slight amount.

 

That's for my '02 with 256,000 miles that's never had a major repair. I stick with what works for me and will do the same with my new 2010 when I pick it up about 2 weeks.

 

Funny thing is that the '02 has had that same "knock" since the day I bought it brand new. The "knock" that sounds like the oil pump is empty and lasts for 10 seconds or so.

LOL...thats called piston slap....just about everyone has that.

 

 

The title doesn't sound too good. I guess I'm kind of surprised that the engine has lasted this long. Same oil pressure. Doesn't burn oil. Nothing that would keep me from driving across country tomorrow.

 

I have been expecting the tranny to give up the ghost. A couple small slips over the past year, but other than that, no real reason.

 

GM has been asked about it...and its "normal". lots of people here have it..do a search for piston slap...you'll come up with lots of posts on this subject. I have never heard of it causing an engine to fail though...and yours should be proof of that...there since day one...and still there at 250K+

Don't worry about the trans...its like 3G for a new one with a 3 year warranty... and a new engine isn't that much either....also with a 3 year warranty. As long as the body and frame are sound...you can get a new drivetrain in there for 7K...and thats a whole lot cheaper than buying a new (or new to you) truck.

 

 

Good points, but I pick up my new 2010 in about 2 weeks. I'll still keep the '02 because it's been the most dependable vehicle I've ever owned. Just ready for a shiny new truck. :lol:

 

I've been on a lot of construction sites. I enjoy the outdoors. I've hauled boats and campers a few times. All that and I've managed to keep the truck in really good shape, but I can be kind of anal about it. :fume: Besides....I can't just turn my back on her after all these miles and I don't know how the '10 will treat me. Ready for 4WD, too, though there have been few instances where my 2WD with good tires(Dueller A/T Revo's) has let me down and it's been in some rough stuff for a 2WD.

 

Apologies for the hi-jack.

 

P1090045.jpg

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thats amazing... and thats the original tranny? i have 145k on my 03 suburban and im thinking im gonna see that many miles out of it even though i replaced the tranny at 120k

Posted

Warm it up. But, within reason. Letting it run 30 minutes in most cases would be overkill in my area, IMHO. For the coldest temps we get here, for the first start of the day I might let it go 3 minutes or so max. But, I also take it easy, pretty much let it run at idle speed down the block. Contamination shouldn't be a problem as long as your not short tripping it all the time

Posted

i wouldnt worry too much about oil contamination on start up.. the only way that could be possible is if u idled thru many, many tanks of fuel.. u will be fine.. the only thing that would really ever happen that u would see would be when u change ur plugs if u see it all gummed up.. which u wont from just warm up.. put it this way, it has to be done, what would u rather have, a possiblity of carbon build up or blowing gaskets cuz too much pressure or tearing up ur cylinders cuz the oil is too thick to fully lubricate. its gotta be done.

Posted

ive read so many similiar topics on other sites asking if warm up is needed and everybody said no modern engines are good to go soon as the motor has oil pressure, but to me watching oil pressure ride 60 to 80 psi seems harmful to the motor, i also read that throwing the truck in gear when the motors idleing higher puts alot of strain onto the tranny....the way i look at it is that i'm already happy with paying at the pump more often then others so whats it matter if i let the truck run a bit before driving

Posted
mobil one clean high mileage 5-30

 

I havn't seen Mobil 1 clean... Mobil 1 is synthetic, Mobil clean highmileage is conventional.

 

MOBIL 1

 

 

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy

Mobil 1 0W-40

Mobil 1 5W-20

Mobil 1 5W-30

Mobil 1 10W-30

Mobil 1 15W-50

Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40

Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-30 for Gasoline Engines

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 for Diesel Engines

Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30

Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40

Mobil 1 Warranty

Mobil 1 FAQs

 

 

 

NEW BOTTLE LABELS

 

 

MOBIL CLEAN 7500

 

 

MOBIL CLEAN HIGH MILEAGE

 

 

MOBIL CLEAN 5000

 

Today's electronically controlled engines do not need an extended warm up, unless we are talking crazy low temps. Let it idle for a minute or two and drive slowly for the 1st mile or so is the best method.

Posted

With either cold or warm ambient air temps, I always wait until the gauge moves above the lowest mark, then take it easy until it's up to normal. If it's 32 or below, I'll wait until I feel the heat warming up a slight amount.

 

That's for my '02 with 256,000 miles that's never had a major repair. I stick with what works for me and will do the same with my new 2010 when I pick it up about 2 weeks.

 

Funny thing is that the '02 has had that same "knock" since the day I bought it brand new. The "knock" that sounds like the oil pump is empty and lasts for 10 seconds or so.

Posted
With either cold or warm ambient air temps, I always wait until the gauge moves above the lowest mark, then take it easy until it's up to normal. If it's 32 or below, I'll wait until I feel the heat warming up a slight amount.

 

That's for my '02 with 256,000 miles that's never had a major repair. I stick with what works for me and will do the same with my new 2010 when I pick it up about 2 weeks.

 

Funny thing is that the '02 has had that same "knock" since the day I bought it brand new. The "knock" that sounds like the oil pump is empty and lasts for 10 seconds or so.

LOL...thats called piston slap....just about everyone has that.

Posted
mobil one clean high mileage 5-30

 

Reason I asked about your oil type was your statement about seeing 60-80 psi readings. I'm not seeing those kind of numbers on start up. Mine is about the same hot or cold.

Posted

I let mine run maybe a minute, just to get the oil circulating. I live in the northeast where highs temps for the day can remain in the single digits, to below zero at night during January. I don't put my foot into it hard until I've gone a few miles first. Been doing this for 20 years with no ill effects.

 

Plus, the engine warms up 100x faster rather than idling.

Posted
With either cold or warm ambient air temps, I always wait until the gauge moves above the lowest mark, then take it easy until it's up to normal. If it's 32 or below, I'll wait until I feel the heat warming up a slight amount.

 

That's for my '02 with 256,000 miles that's never had a major repair. I stick with what works for me and will do the same with my new 2010 when I pick it up about 2 weeks.

 

Funny thing is that the '02 has had that same "knock" since the day I bought it brand new. The "knock" that sounds like the oil pump is empty and lasts for 10 seconds or so.

LOL...thats called piston slap....just about everyone has that.

 

 

The title doesn't sound too good. I guess I'm kind of surprised that the engine has lasted this long. Same oil pressure. Doesn't burn oil. Nothing that would keep me from driving across country tomorrow.

 

I have been expecting the tranny to give up the ghost. A couple small slips over the past year, but other than that, no real reason.

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