Jump to content

Rear Main Seal Gmt-900


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I've had dang near Zero issues with my truck since new, but around 27,000 miles the rear main seal needed replaced. While in there, the transmission seal was showing signs of leaking, so the dealership changed both. Now, I'm at 47,000 miles and just had the truck inspected and the rear main seal is leaking again. :thumbs:

 

Taking it to the dealership tomorrow to see for sure. I believe it should be covered under the power train but seriously, come on! I don't beat on my truck at all, quite frankly I drive it pretty easy 99% of the time. It shouldn't be out again :uhoh:

Posted

I heard they fixed the seal issue in the 2009 model years.

 

Guess its time to trade that thing in for a 2010.

 

You're welcome :thumbs:

Posted

Great! Let us know if it's covered under the powertrain warranty. No issues on mine yet at 28K (keeping fingers crossed). Is this a common problem?

Posted

Well, I suppose it's common, but I've not read much of it :thumbs:

 

Twice now for me :uhoh:

Posted

dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

Posted
dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

 

Good idea on the heated washer.

 

Just the more I've thought about it, the more it makes me mad. The trucks only got close to 47,000 miles on it and this is the second time the seals gone out. Just frustrating I guess. Thank god for the drive train warranty.

Posted
dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

 

Good idea on the heated washer.

 

Just the more I've thought about it, the more it makes me mad. The trucks only got close to 47,000 miles on it and this is the second time the seals gone out. Just frustrating I guess. Thank god for the drive train warranty.

 

 

 

Maybe there is a nick in the sealing surface of the crank and it is ruining the seal. Have them inspect the crank for wear marks or nicks. Must have got a friday truck :thumbs: .

Posted
dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

 

Good idea on the heated washer.

 

Just the more I've thought about it, the more it makes me mad. The trucks only got close to 47,000 miles on it and this is the second time the seals gone out. Just frustrating I guess. Thank god for the drive train warranty.

 

 

 

Is it covered under the drive train warranty?

Posted

The rear main seal started leaking in my '95 Nissan V6 pickup ater 9 years/90k miles. The oil ruined my clutch, it cost me $ 1,200 for the new seal and clutch. And it wasn't really the rear main seal that was leaking. The seal is mounted in a metal plate, which in turn is bolted to the engine block with a paper gasket under it. They did not use any sealant under the paper gasket at the factory when the truck was made. So a $ 5 gasket cost me $ 1,200. The truck was out of warranty when this happened. :thumbs:

Posted
dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

 

Good idea on the heated washer.

 

Just the more I've thought about it, the more it makes me mad. The trucks only got close to 47,000 miles on it and this is the second time the seals gone out. Just frustrating I guess. Thank god for the drive train warranty.

 

 

Being cheap is going to cost GM a lot of $$ in warranty repair bills. Seems to me that some beancounter came up with some cheap seal that saves GM $0.50/truck over a good one.

Posted
dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

 

Good idea on the heated washer.

 

Just the more I've thought about it, the more it makes me mad. The trucks only got close to 47,000 miles on it and this is the second time the seals gone out. Just frustrating I guess. Thank god for the drive train warranty.

 

 

 

Could have been the installation. My dad had that issue. Guy was too lazy to grab the seal driver so he just used a punch. That puts a big dint in the seal, and it fails prematurely.....

Posted
dont forget to have them remove the heated washer fluid system while you're in there getting the seal fixed.

 

 

.....sorry, i guess that didnt make you feel better.....

 

Good idea on the heated washer.

 

Just the more I've thought about it, the more it makes me mad. The trucks only got close to 47,000 miles on it and this is the second time the seals gone out. Just frustrating I guess. Thank god for the drive train warranty.

 

 

 

Is it covered under the drive train warranty?

 

 

Yes, its covered. It's at the dealership now with the transmission out of it. Should be done by the end of the day tomorrow. They are also fixing the recall on the heated washer fluid and the one with the carpet flap under the seat.

 

Edit: Well I went to check on my baby, and it looks like my exhaust/cats are out and the transmissions out. Lots of parts on the floor. I just had to make sure it was inside. :thumbs:

Posted

Ok, got the truck back with a laundry list of seals replaced.

 

I guess when they got into it,.. they replaced the rear main, a seal that covers the main, oil pan gasket, knock sensor gasket and the two oil cooler leads as well were leaking. All covered by the warranty and 2 of them were done out of courtesy.

 

Overall, glad I took it in.. but Why so many different oil leaks!?!?! I don't beat on my truck and I certainly maintain it well.

 

Anyways... alls good and moving on.

Steven

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...