Jump to content

Rear Diff Cover Replacement

mstafford

Recommended Posts

mstafford Enthusiast

mstafford

Posted
Posted

I have a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 4.8L V8 mated to the 5spd manual tranny. I noticed that my rear diff cover has been consistently wet around the bolts, and it is wet to the touch and won't dry - I inspected it closer and it's leaking gear oil from somewhere on the cover but hell if I can figure out where the leak is... So my question is this: how straightforward is changing a diff cover?? Is it done easily in the driveway with hand tools?

 

Thanks for your input guys.

jro909 Senior Enthusiast

jro909

Posted
Posted

your gasket may be toast, i think its easy to do in the driveway just a matter of taking the bolts out and putting a new gasket in, and cover....don't forget to clean up the internals and put new fluid in

Matt_ Senior Enthusiast

Matt_

Posted
Posted
Loosen your fill plug first before taking the cover off

 

Ah yes, otherwise things could get messy.

 

 

If by "messy" you mean "you're SOL after you take the cover off if you later find out that the fill plug is seized and won't come out so you have rendered your truck inoperable"... then yes, very messy! :tear:

Vortec-Z71 Enthusiast

Vortec-Z71

Posted
Posted
Loosen your fill plug first before taking the cover off

 

Ah yes, otherwise things could get messy.

 

 

If by "messy" you mean "you're SOL after you take the cover off if you later find out that the fill plug is seized and won't come out so you have rendered your truck inoperable"... then yes, very messy! :tear:

 

 

I bought the new GMT900 diff cover for my 03 Silverado. Now I have two fill plugs, one on the actual cover and one on the axle. However, some engineer at GM thought it would be a good idea to not give me a drain plug.

Westlotorn Enthusiast

Westlotorn

Posted
Posted

You can also use RTV silicone sealant instead of the gasket. OE did that for a long time. Works well. Don't use too much though, just a thin film on the entire recently cleaned mating surface. If any old oil leaks on the mating surface silicone won't adhere and you wasted your time, make sure it is clean. Carefully bring your clean and siliconed cover up for install so you don't wipe any silicone off the important mating surface. Start all your bolts. Next hand tighten all the bolts working the Diff cover down slowly, when the bolts touch and get tight by hand switch to a ratchet and bring them all up tight. I would wait an hour and them install your oil and be done. I have run several hundred thousand miles with this method. It worked for the factrory so it can't be all bad. One time I jacked up the rear of the truck with my floor jack and the lip of the cover was hit by the floor jack. This contact made the cover start leaking and I had to drain and re seal the diff. My fault, a gasket may not have leaked in this same situation but you never really know. If you jack the body up, making the shocks extend out it usually will get the sway bar up and out of the way and give you easy access to all the bolts. Good luck.

oldschool327 Senior Enthusiast

oldschool327

Posted
Posted

Also ensure your cover is "true". Place it on a flat surface to check. Sometimes whent eh bolts are over torqued the holes will dent in and cause leaks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By Another JR · Posted

      On 2021 3500hd it consistently sets automatically when selecting park if the incline/decline is above a certain angle. 
    • Policeoff01
      Feeling Vibration and Jiggles in 2024 HD Gasser Steering Wheel

      By Policeoff01 · Posted

      Curious, did anyone ever get a fix for the vibration reported here.   I have a 2024 Silverado with 6.6 duramax.   I’m noting the same vibration resonating up through the steering shaft into the steering wheel.    Best way to describe- like someone is tapping on the steering shaft/components and it’s resonating into the steering wheel.    thanks. 
    • Gkistler
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By Gkistler · Posted

      Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...