Jump to content

2010 Silverado Crewcab System Install!


Recommended Posts

Posted
Danny Did you install something for the steering wheel stereo controls ? Thanks

 

yeah i used the pac steering wheel control adapter. the os4 has a plug ready for it so you dont have to run any extra wires.

  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I am right in the middle of installing new speakers, 2 amps and sub. This has been a great thread. I want to ask what size plywood you used (thickness) and how did you mount the top with screws? Also did you screw the amps to the plywood? Did they go though the plywood to the rear metal? That is a good looking job and would like to get some pointers. Thanks!!

Posted

thanks! at the top of where i mounted the plywood. there were places open. its kind of hard to explain. but well you can screw into it without going through the cab wall. the plywood was pre cut at lowes. umm 1/8th in thick? it was like 5 bucks for a 4x2. yeah i used short screws to mount the amp onto the plywood

Posted
where did you get the plastic housing for the alpines in the door? My factory ones are imbedding in that plastic housing :dunno:

 

Scosche SAGMHR634 $10 a pair on amazon

Posted

Thanks SKANK (almost feel bad saying that ). I have the speakers installed in the doors and the wiring run for the amps. When I take the insulation off the back wall I am sure I will see where you screwed into the cab. I was thinking I would need thicker wood so I could use longer screws to hold up the amps. Seeing how it worked out for you, I will do the same. Thanks again.

Posted
where did you get the plastic housing for the alpines in the door? My factory ones are imbedding in that plastic housing mad3.gif

 

Scosche SAGMHR634 $10 a pair on amazon

 

 

 

 

 

he said it!

 

 

Thanks SKANK (almost feel bad saying that ). I have the speakers installed in the doors and the wiring run for the amps. When I take the insulation off the back wall I am sure I will see where you screwed into the cab. I was thinking I would need thicker wood so I could use longer screws to hold up the amps. Seeing how it worked out for you, I will do the same. Thanks again.

 

haha. no problem! yeah youll have to look at it and youll know what im talking about

Posted

i ended up finishing up for the most part today. all i need is my box to come in. and i need to pick up my subs from my moms house.

 

all i had left basically was wiring. so i pulled the under dash appart to run the power wire. i stuffed it down a rubber gromet that was there already. located right next to the brake booster. ran the amp wire down the left side.

2m4c8y9.jpg

2mq3oxz.jpg

23j4ntd.jpg

i didnt take many pics of the wiring process. speaker wires

10s8238.jpg

this is what i ended up with. ALL DONE!

fa506c.jpg

 

i mounted up the fuse holders on the fuse box. big 3 upgrade pic. and second battery

11mbac5.jpg

 

thanks everyone for the comments and looking!

Posted

thanks! most of this stuff was out of my old tahoe. i wish i had the newer version of the components because the tweeters are smaller and i would have been able to make them fit in the stock location

Posted

Hey man install looks great. I am currently in the process of ordering the things I need to install in my truck, I already have teh indash nav put in but I am waiting on my bypass to come in so I don't have to have the truck in park to play DVDs. Headrests w/monitors are on the way. Should have them early next week. Still uncertain on compenents at the moment I have a Kicker amp sitting at my house out of my camaro but I haven't decided if I will reuse it or not. As for Subs and stuff not sure which way to go, probably Kicker, i have connection (living in Oklahoma has its perks lol). But I was debating getting sound deadening but your thread has made me decide it is really something I need. SO thank you for that. This is a very thorough thread. +1! I may post some pics of the headrest monitors install and use this thread as a guide. Thanks so much. :D

Posted
Hey man install looks great. I am currently in the process of ordering the things I need to install in my truck, I already have teh indash nav put in but I am waiting on my bypass to come in so I don't have to have the truck in park to play DVDs. Headrests w/monitors are on the way. Should have them early next week. Still uncertain on compenents at the moment I have a Kicker amp sitting at my house out of my camaro but I haven't decided if I will reuse it or not. As for Subs and stuff not sure which way to go, probably Kicker, i have connection (living in Oklahoma has its perks lol). But I was debating getting sound deadening but your thread has made me decide it is really something I need. SO thank you for that. This is a very thorough thread. +1! I may post some pics of the headrest monitors install and use this thread as a guide. Thanks so much. :D

 

thanks! just hit up don at sounddeadeningshowdown.com and he'll help you through it. it makes a big difference

 

 

Are you going to put deadening on the floor?

 

i only did the back floor since the subs are going to be facing down. i was kind of on a budget for deadening so i only did the parts that made a big difference

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...