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2010 Silverado Crewcab System Install!


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Awesome looking install.

 

So what's the deal with Onstar, Chimes, Bluetooth, etc. Are they all super loud since they're going through an additional amp now?

 

i stated a few times in the thread. the pac os4 retains all the onstar, chimes, bluetooth. chimes go through a seprate box. which is probably the most annoying if it was amplified since it beeps all the time if youre doing something wrong or youre signaling. i havent hit that bluetooth button or onstar yet. so i couldnt tell you. it shouldnt be much louder i dont believe. but ill let you know as soon as i go check. i just took my truck in to get serviced. rear bumpers got rusted at 10000 miles. rediculous. as soon as i get it back ill try it out

 

it also depends on how high you have your amp settings at. my gain is just about a quarter turn. ive adjusted it so when i do want to turn it up loud all the way up on the radio is about as much power as the speakers can take. right before it gets distorted. so i dont think itll be toooo much louder. you were able to turn the bluetooth vol up and down a little with the speakers running though the head unit before.

 

 

thanks for the comments guys.

 

also just ordered my subthump box. ill be waiting for it to come in!

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I love doing super clean system installs and yours is for sure, top notch. Good job. :D

 

I am currently on the fence about ordering an '11 CC and I can't decide if I want to just get lazy and order it with the factory Bose system or save that $500 to put towards a quality system install like your own. I already have the JL sub

and amp that will not be going with my current truck, to put towards the new truck, so that will cut costs down a bit too.

 

Keep us updated! :sigh:

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I love doing super clean system installs and yours is for sure, top notch. Good job. :D

 

I am currently on the fence about ordering an '11 CC and I can't decide if I want to just get lazy and order it with the factory Bose system or save that $500 to put towards a quality system install like your own. I already have the JL sub

and amp that will not be going with my current truck, to put towards the new truck, so that will cut costs down a bit too.

 

Keep us updated! :sigh:

 

Don't bother with the bose, you can get better sound with the factory head unit and $300 in upgraded speaks

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Don't bother with the bose, you can get better sound with the factory head unit and $300 in upgraded speaks

 

Yeah, I've never really been a fan of the factory Bose system honestly but that's just if I get lazy, that's all. I'd much rather put a nice HU and speakers in a base system truck and reuse my current amp and sub. We'll see.

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Don't bother with the bose, you can get better sound with the factory head unit and $300 in upgraded speaks

 

So what all did you do?

 

Just new speakers in the stock locations or did you add amplification as well?

 

thanks

 

 

Haven't started yet other than tweeters, going to put in an indash dvd and new speakers then see how I like the sound and decided where to go from there, just haven't had the time to get into that yet. I am just speaking from experience on what could be done with a stock head unit.

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Don't bother with the bose, you can get better sound with the factory head unit and $300 in upgraded speaks

 

So what all did you do?

 

Just new speakers in the stock locations or did you add amplification as well?

 

thanks

 

 

Haven't started yet other than tweeters, going to put in an indash dvd and new speakers then see how I like the sound and decided where to go from there, just haven't had the time to get into that yet. I am just speaking from experience on what could be done with a stock head unit.

 

 

Thanks

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I'm pretty sure that factory systems run with 8 ohms resistance through the audio channels where most all aftermarket components run 4 ohms. Never had any luck with a factory head unit sounding good with aftermarket speakers or an aftermarket head unit sounding good with factory speakers. If you replace one, you replace them all.

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I'm pretty sure that factory systems run with 8 ohms resistance through the audio channels where most all aftermarket components run 4 ohms. Never had any luck with a factory head unit sounding good with aftermarket speakers or an aftermarket head unit sounding good with factory speakers. If you replace one, you replace them all.

 

Nope, home stuff in general is 8 but car stuff even factory in general is 4, bose speakers are actually in the 3ohm range to get more power out of the amp. A new head unit with factory speakers will still sound like crap possibly even worse than before as there will be too much power. With upgraded speakers and factory head unit unless you buy speakers than perform well with about 10 to 15watts then they will also sound like crap with very little bass.

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One thing you should do later is build new baffles out of mdf for your mids/midbass especially sense your powering them with an amp. I have the same plastic ones you do and even though i used sound deadener and dynaxorb pads behind the drivers my midbass suffers a little.

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One thing you should do later is build new baffles out of mdf for your mids/midbass especially sense your powering them with an amp. I have the same plastic ones you do and even though i used sound deadener and dynaxorb pads behind the drivers my midbass suffers a little.

 

yeah the mid is OK. its not super great. much much better then before. i was thinking about running the foam baffles. anyone have any experience with these?

 

 

i got the truck back today. the onstar and bluetooth sounds fine because of the way i ran my wires

 

i didnt run new wire from the amp to each speaker. i ran it down the middle and through the os4 box. so basically

-amp.

-os4

-speakers

 

that way the os4 can control the volume of the onstar and bluetooth

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i was thinking about running the foam baffles. anyone have any experience with these?

 

Foam baffles are a must for speakers powered from a stock head unit or aftermarket head unit, it really adds to the bass, when getting into external amplified range you have to consider both the qts of the driver and the amount of power to it. It can end up the foam baffle does not provide enough air for the driver to operate in in which case you can pack it with acoustic fill. The other problem you may encounter with high power speakers is heat, in that case a few vent holes will work fine.

 

The point of the baffles is to give the driver the correct amount of air to work in, to add protection and to provide a backstop for the sound emitted from the rear of the driver. When people say adding dynamat to to the doors makes a difference to bass this is what they are really talking about, a sheet of sound deadening covering 20 to 25% of the outside door panel cuts down on the reflection of sound waves from the speaker off the door and back into the passenger cabin. These reflected wound waves act against the ones being produced by the speaker and can end up canceling each other out and reducing the bass.

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