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2010 Silverado Crewcab System Install!

undercover_skank

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Buy1018 New Member

Buy1018

Posted
Posted

I'm still hoping for you to create a step by step tutorial.

 

I hope you fix it soon. So u can concentrate on other people's issues. JK

 

When you cut the weather-tech mat, was it a clean cut? Does it still look good. I found that mine needs to be cut around center console.

Superperv23 Enthusiast

Superperv23

Posted
Posted

Yeah if everything is in parallel you have a 1 ohm load and this is why you are blowing fuses , so you want to wire the sub voice coils in series and then wire the subs together parallel and you will have a 4 ohm load, just follow this diagram

 

DVC_Series_2.gif

undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah if everything is in parallel you have a 1 ohm load and this is why you are blowing fuses , so you want to wire the sub voice coils in series and then wire the subs together parallel and you will have a 4 ohm load, just follow this diagram

 

DVC_Series_2.gif

 

thanks super so thats what ive done wrong!

 

 

I'm still hoping for you to create a step by step tutorial.

 

I hope you fix it soon. So u can concentrate on other people's issues. JK

 

When you cut the weather-tech mat, was it a clean cut? Does it still look good. I found that mine needs to be cut around center console.

 

yeah i cut it pretty clean. the box covers the back part that you cut out so you dont see it at all.

 

 

 

can you come install all of that stuff in my truck when your done and worked out all the glitches??? cheers.gif

 

 

 

haha if it didnt take so much time! thats the only thing about it. gotta take your time.

undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i remember why i wired them parallel. it was because the crutchfield rep told me to! im going to try ti serial tonight and see how it goes.

Superperv23 Enthusiast

Superperv23

Posted
Posted

Program 2 was the key, nothing on the go tonight so I went out and set the swi to program 2 like the os4 instructions said even though the vehicle specific instructions say program 1 and now it works, hope you had some luck rewiring

undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

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Posted

yeah that was what it was all along. changed up the wires it its works great now! thanks. appreciate it alot! im glad you got the swi to work.

 

no my onstar light is red. i hit the button and they ran a diagnostic. she said that its red because onstar lost connection with the radio or something. oh well. it expires in a month anyways

undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

Posted
  • Author
Posted

finally got everything worked out and tuned. sounds great now! i love it. no rattles. the bass sounds tight and clean. thanks for looking guys!

 

admins! PIN THIS! thanks

mrauls Enthusiast

mrauls

Posted
Posted

Seconded!

 

Awesome write up!

 

finally got everything worked out and tuned. sounds great now! i love it. no rattles. the bass sounds tight and clean. thanks for looking guys!

 

admins! PIN THIS! thanks

  • 4 weeks later...
undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

Posted
  • Author
Posted

heres a little update.

 

i tried fitting my alpine type r subs into the box. they didnt fit =(

 

from the size that subthump claimed and the size that alpine claims its supposed to fit without any problems. i emailed subthump. havent got a reply yet

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

That kinda sucks. I was looking at subthump for the box for my new truck that is due here anyday now. Hope I don't have the same issues.

 

Kinda brought a tear to my eye taking my sub and amp out of the old truck but they both patiently await going in the new truck so I'm getting "amped up" for that. :)

Bytor62 Enthusiast

Bytor62

Posted
Posted

As I mentioned earlier, my 12" Type R did not fit in the Subthump box either. The depth specified by Subthump is correct, but the actual cutout at that depth is too small i.e. the diameter of the magnet is larger than the cutout. I had to take my dremel with a router bit to the box to carefully remove some of the mdf to get it to fit. I also e-mailed Subthump asking if he had any suggestions and got a reply back within a day. Not much help though, just said the sub was too big (wow, really?).

undercover_skank Enthusiast

undercover_skank

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As I mentioned earlier, my 12" Type R did not fit in the Subthump box either. The depth specified by Subthump is correct, but the actual cutout at that depth is too small i.e. the diameter of the magnet is larger than the cutout. I had to take my dremel with a router bit to the box to carefully remove some of the mdf to get it to fit. I also e-mailed Subthump asking if he had any suggestions and got a reply back within a day. Not much help though, just said the sub was too big (wow, really?).

 

its a 10 inch. its a totally different size. the sides of the magnet fits into the hole. it swives in the box and moves around fine. it hits straight bottom. subthump box is supposed to be 6.5 inches deep. the subs are 5 7/8 inches deep.

 

got the email back from subthump. they basically said screw you go buy some spacers...

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

Wow! I'm starting to think that subthump isn't going to get my money for the box that I need for the new truck. :)

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