How-To: GMT900 Tow Mirror Install.

MikeNH · April 14, 2011

So this afternoon I installed the towing mirrors in my 2011 Silverado. Lots of folks have asked about a guide for this so I did the driver side to get a feel for what needed to be done then I photographed the passenger side work. Hope this is a help for folks. I have a ton of photos so I will probably have to break it up into several posts.

I rolled down the window for this to make work easier.

The first step is to remove the sail panel that is behind the mirror. I used trim tools for lots of this, they are a huge help. Pry back the panel gently so you can see the trim clips, then pull there. As a side note, the bandage on my pinky and the dried blood should serve as a reminder that trim pieces can be sharp. Be careful.

Here is the panel removed. Use care when removing the clip from the door panel as that one is flimsy and I could see it breaking easily,

Using a small flathead, carefully pry the little square on the door lock knob out. It pops straight out when you pry against the little notch and then it can be lifted off.

Lock knob removed:

MikeNH · April 14, 2011

Using a small flathead remove the small trim cover behind the door release. There is a small cutout on the panel at the bottom for removal but honestly it seemed to come off easier when prying from the top (I did this on the driver side before I knew about the cutout.

Panel removed. Note the locating pin on the piece as well as the corresponding hole on the door panel. Go ahead and remove that 10mm bolt as well.

Use a trim tool to remove the panel under the armrest.

Panel removed

MikeNH · April 14, 2011

This is a notch at the bottom of the angled door pull. Use a trim tool in there to pry the piece out. It is pretty snug so I used the tool to push the trim out some then pulled it off with my other hand. Just work your way up the trim to remove it.

Backside of trim:

Remove the two 10mm nuts you just uncovered. One up top (hard to see in the photo) and one at the bottom.

Go back and remove the bolts under the armrest. Dropping bolts into the door sucks so I loosened them and then spun them the rest of the way out with a magnetic pickup tool.

MikeNH · April 14, 2011

There are a total of 5 bolts you will remove. There are two types- 3 normal looking ones and 2 collared ones. The collared ones go into the slanted door pull.

Pulling the door panel can be a bit scary if you've never done this work before. The clips are TIGHT. I started with a wide trim tool in the bottom back corner of the panel and pushed the trim back so I could see where the white pins were. Locate them and pull in that area. There are several along the back side, bottom and front side of the door. Once all are loose, lift up on the door pane and pull it back SLIGHTLY. There are all sorts of wires still connected. I lowered it and basically supported it with my knee as I worked, but you could stack something under the panel to hold it.

Remove this foam and set it aside. Use care as you will be re-using it.

The next few steps were tricky to photograph because it was extremely tight quarters. This is the back side of the mirror, follow the wire harness to the door switch panel and unplug it. This is tricky because you are working blind.

Once the plug is disconnected there are three of these harness anchors to remove. They're easy to spot as the harness has tape around them. One is hard to get to as it is behind the bare metal door brace. I used a forked trim tool I bought from Snap-On back when I worked for the dealer but needlenose pliers will work too. Be **VERY** careful fishing the mirror harness through the door. I broke the locking tab on the plug when it got stuck on my new mirrors. Thankfully I was able to repair it somewhat to make the connection secure.

MikeNH · April 14, 2011

The mirrors have 3 10mm nuts holding them on. You'll need a deep socket or nut driver to remove them. Don't drop them into the door! After they are removed. the mirror is still held on by some very stubborn spring pins. Give that mirror a solid tug or two and they'll pop out.

This is the backside of one of the old mirrors. The foam on the driver side stuck to the door. Remove it as the new mirrors should have new foam.

Push the new mirror on. You'll hear a click as that new spring pin sets into place. Tighten down the 3 nuts you just removed previously. Route the new harness like the old one, being careful not to damage the plug like I did. Test the new mirror. Put everything back on, making sure none of the door cables or wires were dislocated from the panel being removed. You'll need to hook the door panel over the top then work your way around to seat the clips.

A few random notes on installaiton:

The folded tow mirrors were VERY stiff to fold out. I almost called the seller to make sure there wasn't some trick to unfolding them. There isn't. Just pull hard. There are two stages- mine are angled back some but they can be locked fully out as well. And of course they extend a good bit.

One weird thing I encountered after installing the driver side was for the first 3 blinks of the turn signal, there was no "click". The lights worked but no noise until the fourth click. This went away once the passenger side was installed. I don't know if this was because I had one signal and one non-signal mirror attached or what. Everything works fine now.

MikeNH · April 15, 2011

Some after pics:

That little guy is BRIGHT!

That's all I got. I hope all this work helps someone someday.

99silveradoz71 · April 15, 2011

Very nice write-up

Garrett Street · April 15, 2011

Nice write up and GREAT looking truck. The mirrors definitely give the impression (Even if you don't) that you use the truck as a "real" truck. Lol

redjewel2ss · April 17, 2011

nice write up!

did your original mirrors have the turn signals in them? if i don't have them now, you think it is plug-n-play if i get new ones with the turn signals?

MikeNH · April 17, 2011

The original ones were power glass/manual fold with heat and these were a direct install. From my experience and from what I read on others installs the signal wires are already there if you have power and heat it seems. Ryan swapped out to a set of the normal style mirrors with signal (LTZ/SLT mirrors) solely for the signal repeater so you should be fine as long as you have the mid line mirrors, RPO DL8 I think.

20Silverado11 · May 10, 2011

Great write-up. I read it through, did some research, and have just ordered tow mirrors for my 2011 Silverado LT from GM Parts Direct. FYI, here's the link to the ones for my particular truck:

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?s...number=19202235

Hopefully, I'll be able to see behind that damn horse trailer in a couple weeks!

20Silverado11 · May 27, 2011

New mirrors are now installed and on the truck. Once you get the lower mirrors adjusted, there are no more blind spots, plus you can see around your trailer. One thing I didn't realize when I ordered the mirrors is that they magnify cars so that they look a lot closer. I'm sure I'll get used to it eventually. The turn signal LED's work great, the mirrors don't shake, and the truck still fits in my garage. A great upgrade.

turnerms98 · May 28, 2011

Did you already have the heated, power, and turn signal mirrors? My code in the glove box say DL3 but I have all the options except the memory and park assist on my mirrors.

MikeNH · May 28, 2011

I had heat and power only. On mine the old mirrors were one plug as were the new units. Everything was plug and play.

**I also wanted to add that I noticed a bit of vibration on the driver mirror the past couple weeks but between the near constant rain and work I only go to dealing with it today. I pulled off the sail panel and got a turn or two out of the mounting nuts. This seemed to cure it. I suppose the foam compressed some since installation.