Jump to content

Truck Wander


Recommended Posts

Posted

Have an issue with my truck. It seems that the more crown in the road the more the truck will want to pull. I understand that a little bit of pull is normal, but the truck wants to go off roading in the ditch. Now I have brought it to a shop that I trust and they checked the alignment. They did not touch anything because it was all good and within spec. On a flat road the truck drives straight as well. Is there anything that I need to check for?

Posted

If the truck runs straight when you are on a road with little to no crown, then whoever did the alignment did not offset the truck for the crown. The crown is normally there, and no crown is not normal. Generally you set the vehicle with slightly less castor on the left wheel (assuming North America). Slightly as in half a degree or so. I used castor simply because it is not a tire wearing angle.

 

BTW, a vehicle can be completely within specs and still pull hard to one side due to alignment settings. Just because they say it is within specs does not mean it is right.

Posted

not sure if it would have anything to do with it, but, have you checked the tire pressure? Run what the sticker on the door says,

Posted
Have you had your tires rotated and balanced recently?

 

 

Generally, when you get a tire that has "radial pull", you will find the steering wheel will be off center as you drive straight down the road. When you release the wheel, the truck will pull to the side with the bad tire, and the steering wheel will be centered as the truck goes off in the direction of the bad tire.

 

This is different to an alignment pull in that when the alignment causes the pull, the steering wheel will not go back to being centered when you let go of the wheel, it will go past center and keep turning as the truck goes further offline.

Posted

a high crown in the road will make your truck pull some. we have that here on most of the freeways, but the side roads are not so bad. also the wider your tire the more it can drift on a high crowned road. on a couple of our freeways here, the crown on a 2 lane road is so bad when driving down it you can see the bow in it..

Posted

If the alignment settings have been set to specifications by the tech doing the alignment shop, its either a tire issue or the crown of the road causing this.

 

You can't get away from crown of the road. And a good alignment tech will set the alignment to factory specs, not to counter how the roads are. On a single 2 lane road - opposite direction, crown comes from the center, left to right. On a 4 lane - 2 lanes opposing direction - crown of the road is between the 2 lanes going in the same direction.

 

So the right lane will cause the vehicle to "drift/pull" right, and the left lane will cause the vehicle to "drift/pull" left.

 

No way around it especially since the alignment checks out.

 

Also, most of us on the boards here have installed larger than OEM size tires so that can/will affect how the vehicle will ride/handle on the road. I know this for a fact because I used to have 35x12.50/15's on my old Blazer. Much larger than the stock 31x10.50/15's. With the larger tires, it would grab hold and follow every little imperfection in the road, even crown. I used to live down the road from a stone quarry. It was a doozy to handle when on a road with heavy large truck traffic like semi's and dump trucks with the deep grooves in the pavement from the heavy loads.

 

There are 3 ways to go about this when having an alignment issue.

 

1. Have it aligned and get the before/after print outs. The customer should always get copies of these. If the alignment is within spec, even better when its just about spot on, then this rules out an alignment issue.

 

2. Rotate the tires from left to right. If its a radial tire pull, the pull will follow with the tire. Make sure to do the fronts first, but also do the rears. But with the rears, if it pulls left, then the right rear tire might be bad, and vice versa. Its opposite.

 

3. Crown of the road. 2 things you can do here. Nothing and like it (or not like it)

Posted

I'm going through the same thing. Wish I could tell you what to do as I have been unsuccessful it getting it fixed by the dealer. If you get a solution let me know.

Posted
I'm going through the same thing. Wish I could tell you what to do as I have been unsuccessful it getting it fixed by the dealer. If you get a solution let me know.

 

 

There is no solution for road crown causing a drift. If you have the alignment adjusted for road crown, the truck will pull the opposite direction when on a flat road and could cause accelerated tire wear.

 

The solution, unfortunately is to deal with it.

Posted

what type of tires your using?my HD was fine with the factory tires but when needed replacing the tire shop put some toyos on!after putting them on the truck had the same problems you describe pulled all over the road,felt the back end wanted to pass the front end,felt like the road was icy really,seemed like the back end wanted to wander !finally had enough and took it in for new tires again as usual GM was no help.took it to sears and got 4 new BF goodrich rugged trail TA's and wow what a difference felt like my GM trucks of the past!this truck handled so bad with the toyos that at one point after getting them we pulled over and checked the lug nuts because we wondered if I had a loose wheel or something,I honestly hated this truck and wanted to trade it off!it reminded me of the days of driving fords!but I can honestly say that the good tires fixed my problem,and I did have my wheel alignment checked twice after having this problem from the toyo tires and it helped in no way!

Posted

my truck pulls easily on crowns and cross winds...new tires, alignment i was told its the rack and pinion steering...let alone gmt-800s are known for cruddy steering

Posted
my truck pulls easily on crowns and cross winds...new tires, alignment i was told its the rack and pinion steering...let alone gmt-800s are known for cruddy steering

 

 

yep. its the way the GMT800's are. all 3 of mine do it.

Posted

Sorry for the late response.....been busy all weekend. First I have factory size tires on the truck (265 70 17) and I also have a set of 275 55 20, for the summer. No matter which set I put on it does the same thing. Also the truck does pull to the left if the crown/road is the opposite way. It follows the road big time. The shop that did the alignment has been a family friend for about 30 years, and I saw the screens(in the shop while it was being done, didn't get a printout though). The one thing that I did notice is that the outside of the passanger tire is feathering ever so slightly, whereas all the other tires are wearing normal. I think this is because I am holding the steering wheel to the left a bit to drive down the road straight. The other thing is in the mornings when I first leave, get to a stop sign an then go again, the brakes seem like they are binding and release when I let the pedal out. After the first or second stop they are fine. Is that caused by moisture in the drum?

Posted
a high crown in the road will make your truck pull some. we have that here on most of the freeways, but the side roads are not so bad. also the wider your tire the more it can drift on a high crowned road. on a couple of our freeways here, the crown on a 2 lane road is so bad when driving down it you can see the bow in it..

 

X2

 

My truck pulls to the right and left on the crowned highways but it depends what lane I am in.

 

To previous poster why would an alignment be used to adjust for the crown in the road? When you change lanes to the left lane the truck would pull harder to the left if setup the way you describe. I never heard of a shop doing this but maybe its different in my neck of the woods.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...