Driveshaft Removal

[ementz]

I need to replace the U-joints in my 2002 GMC Sierra 4x4. I removed the 4 bolts from the rear connection point where the driveshaft and the rear yoke meet and now I am having a heckuva time getting the actual driveshaft removed. Are there any tricks to actually getting the driveshaft down? The Chilton's manual says that it's just supposed drop out and the next step is to slide the front yoke out of the transfer case. Sounds easy, but I cannot seem to get the rear of the driveshaft to move (other than the wiggle it has from the bad u-joints). There is a little rust on the joint, but I can't imagine it's completely rusted on there.

[MikeNH]

I don't remember exactly the setup these trucks use offhand but I assume there are u-bolts/straps connecting the U-joint to the pinion. If this is the case, just stick a prybar between the pinion and U-joint and give it a shove forward. Obviously make sure that you have the rear in the air or the wheels securely blocked before doing this because having the tranny in park won't matter anymore.

[Stevens03]

4-10mm bolts and two u-clip retainers and the drive shaft should push forward away from the rear differential for removal. You should be able to do it in under 10 minutes. If its not separating from the rear yoke,... then it's stuck

[Duelin]

Just in case that you are doing this on the ground. Make sure you have the wheels chocked. Once you remove the shaft you have nothing to keep it from moving except for the chocks. You can use the park brake but back it up with chocks.

[desrtrat]

one thing i found when i was towing was block both sides of the rear tire, set E-break, with engine OFF, put trans in neutral. that will release any pre load you may have on the shaft, and will keep you from eating the pry bar when you remove the U-joint from the yoke, and allows you to rotate the shaft if need be ..also mark where the shaft is lined up to the yoke. sometimes if you install it 180* out from where it was you can/may get a vibration in the drive line.

 

good luck

[ementz]

Thanks Guys. I guess I needed to quit being a p*ssy when removing the drive shaft. I had so many people tell me to be very careful of the aluminum drive shaft, because If I dented or damaged it in any way, I'd have to replace the whole driveshaft. I was being overly careful when I was trying to remove it initially, so as not to damage the drive shaft. After reading the comments, I got a larger pry bar and gave her hell once and she came right off.

 

Thanks again.

[CapitalTruck]

"Obviously make sure that you have the rear in the air or the wheels securely blocked before doing this because having the tranny in park won't matter anymore. "

 

I don't know why, but that gave me a chuckle.

[c094728]

on my 99 k2500 suburban I got the driveshaft loose but there is not enough clearance to move it forward far enough to completely remove from transfer case. The exhaust runs underneath and prevent me from moving it to the side of the transmission far enough to move it forward. how can I do this?

[c094728]

I'll figured it out. I had to remove the oil filter and then had enough room to move the driveshaft up and forward where the the filter was.