Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It's been a long time on here but, i finally put a new custom grind cam in my Seirra to finally complement the E-Force supercahrger that i

 

intalled in the summer of 2012. The new cam added 82 more hp and now wheel hp power is up to 518. Now i need someone to point me in

 

the direction of some new aftermarket rotors and calipers to help bring this thing to a stop. Does anyone know if Brembo has anything with 4 or

 

6 piston calipers that will fit my L9H Seirra with the stock 17's. What are the upgrade brake options out there for our trucks. I know

 

Hennessey sells some very expensive brake up grades, i was hoping i could gather some pieces myself for a lot less

Posted

So last weekend they had diesel drags close to where i live and its where anybody and everybody brings out there pickups. I decided to put my pickup in the drags and without 4 wheel drive launching it and running traction control to minimize tire slippage the best run i had in the morning was 15.3 in the quarter. Had a blast only problem is now I want to make her go faster. For completely stock I got a lot of compliments and shocked a lot of people.

  • Like 1
Posted

It's been a long time on here but, i finally put a new custom grind cam in my Seirra to finally complement the E-Force supercahrger that i

 

intalled in the summer of 2012. The new cam added 82 more hp and now wheel hp power is up to 518. Now i need someone to point me in

 

the direction of some new aftermarket rotors and calipers to help bring this thing to a stop. Does anyone know if Brembo has anything with 4 or

 

6 piston calipers that will fit my L9H Seirra with the stock 17's. What are the upgrade brake options out there for our trucks. I know

 

Hennessey sells some very expensive brake up grades, i was hoping i could gather some pieces myself for a lot less

Trucks are heavy so usually larger rotors are incorporated into a higher performing brake system for their ability to generate extra brake torque. Baer makes two systems for our trucks but neither will accommodate 17" wheels, you will find there are not many if any manufacturers that do. The first is their 6s Extreme system with 6 piston calipers at all four corners around $3k per axle. The second is their Aluma Sport system with larger 14" rotors and two piston calipers at the corners. If you just need increased braking power you would be amazed at the difference a set of quality pads can make with no other changes. You may get into an issue with some of the high performance pads of higher dust but you may find a low dust compound available that will suit your needs. You could call KNS brakes and get some recommendations, they advertise on Corvette Forum and specialize in brake consumables so likely could sell you something that will meet your needs. On a 2002 C5 ZO6 I installed some top quality pads for road course driving and it blew my mind how much brake torque was generated with factory hardware and only different pads.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Anyone know of a good aftermarket engine mount for the 6.2, I have broke both of mine at the same time it seems and wonder if there is a stronger one out there. (This was covered under my warranty).

Posted

Check out BMR suspension. Wonder of other applications (camaro/corvette) would work

 

 

Ryan

Posted

Check out BMR suspension. Wonder of other applications (camaro/corvette) would work

 

 

Ryan

 

I don't know of cross application fitment but here are two urethane motor mounts from Corvette vendor Hinson MotorSports. One tall, the other slightly shorter. Good luck in your search and hope this helps.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-tech-performance/3476506-why-are-hinson-motorsports-urethane-mounts-better-heres-why.html

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hey,

 

Any resources on this website for exhaust systems or muffler swaps for the the 6.2L? I have an '13 CC with the 6.2L and want to make it a little louder then stock. Looking for ideas.

 

I was thinking of just doing a swap for a straight through muffler and keeping the rear resonator or thinking of deleting the muffler altogether and keeping the stock resonator but that may be too loud for me.

 

Seems cheaper then a full system to basically achieve the same thing... Magnaflow has a straight through 3.5'' in/out muffler for about $100 that seems would work well.

Edited by stefman722
Posted (edited)

Hey,

 

Any resources on this website for exhaust systems or muffler swaps for the the 6.2L? I have an '13 CC with the 6.2L and want to make it a little louder then stock. Looking for ideas.

 

I was thinking of just doing a swap for a straight through muffler and keeping the rear resonator or thinking of deleting the muffler altogether and keeping the stock resonator but that may be too loud for me.

 

Seems cheaper then a full system to basically achieve the same thing... Magnaflow has a straight through 3.5'' in/out muffler for about $100 that seems would work well.

i have a borla system on mine and love it. mine being a 2010 i only had the one option and if i am not mistaken the 11's or newer had two exhausts for sale. i get lots of compliments on it, and it does imo sound nice. i tried to post a sound clip a few moths ago from my iPad, but it wouldn't upload for me! i bought mine from a canadian website t dot performance and they were excellent to deal with.

Edited by mymaggiebell
Posted

Hey,

 

Any resources on this website for exhaust systems or muffler swaps for the the 6.2L? I have an '13 CC with the 6.2L and want to make it a little louder then stock. Looking for ideas.

 

I was thinking of just doing a swap for a straight through muffler and keeping the rear resonator or thinking of deleting the muffler altogether and keeping the stock resonator but that may be too loud for me.

 

Seems cheaper then a full system to basically achieve the same thing... Magnaflow has a straight through 3.5'' in/out muffler for about $100 that seems would work well.

 

Pro-Flo #2510 3.5" factory replacement

Pro-Flo #2507 4" factory replacement

 

Both of the above same size, shape, offsets as factory muffler so they'll fit right in place.The #2507 is 4" tubing so you'd have to have your factory 3.5" flared or adapted. It is also a 3 chamber design which is louder than the #2510 4 chamber design. Both louder and flow better than factory however the #2507 which is somewhat new would be the louder and best flow.

Posted

 

Pro-Flo #2510 3.5" factory replacement

Pro-Flo #2507 4" factory replacement

 

Both of the above same size, shape, offsets as factory muffler so they'll fit right in place.The #2507 is 4" tubing so you'd have to have your factory 3.5" flared or adapted. It is also a 3 chamber design which is louder than the #2510 4 chamber design. Both louder and flow better than factory however the #2507 which is somewhat new would be the louder and best flow.

Thought our 6.2s had 4 inch pipe from the wye out. Did I miss something?

Posted

Thought our 6.2s had 4 inch pipe from the wye out. Did I miss something?

 

 

3.5" on my 2011

Posted (edited)

3.5" on my 2013

 

 

2011-2013 all 6.2's come with 3.5", not sure on earlier model 6.2's. 2010 may have the 3.5" as well. 6.0L Vortec Max comes with 3"

Edited by NemesisC5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...