Jump to content

305/55/20 offset question with fender flares

Chads09Sierra

By Chads09Sierra
in Tires, Wheels & TPMS

Recommended Posts

Chads09Sierra Enthusiast

Chads09Sierra

Posted
Posted

i got some new to me tires (305/55/20) at a deal i couldnt pass up. now ive searched for 2 days and i cant seem to find what offset i should run on a 20x9 wheel to have my tires stick out passed the fender a little. i mean i know -12 and 0 offset make the tire stick out passed my fender, but i just ordered bushwacker pocket style fender flares and i want my tires to stick out to fill them up. not be tucked in like factory wheels and look gay. so is there a happy medium with offset's between sticking out of the fender a little and not rubbing? i have a 2'' leveling kit and a 3'' body lift. here are a few pictures. thanks for your help, btw the wheels i was looking at ordering have a +18 offset, but i dont think they will stick out enough

post-62786-0-70316800-1327008617_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-20498700-1327008627_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-72722500-1327008633_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-70316800-1327008617_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-20498700-1327008627_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-72722500-1327008633_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-70316800-1327008617_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-20498700-1327008627_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-72722500-1327008633_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-70316800-1327008617_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-20498700-1327008627_thumb.jpg

post-62786-0-72722500-1327008633_thumb.jpg

Gurrzt Enthusiast

Gurrzt

Posted
Posted

The stock offest for the GM rims is 31mm, as the number goes up the more the wheel will stick out of the wheelwell.

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

The stock offest for the GM rims is 31mm, as the number goes up the more the wheel will stick out of the wheelwell.

 

 

Actually, just the opposite...rims with a higher offset (like 31mm) will be tucked inside the fenders, while a lower offset (like 12mm) will put them about even with the fender opening. A 0mm offset or negative offset will kick them outside the fenders.

 

A rim with a zero offset, means that the mounting flange is in the center of the wheel. A positive offset means that the mounting flange is shifted past center, to the outside of the wheel, which will bring more of the wheel inside the fender opening. A negative offset means that the mounting flange is shifted past center, to the inside of the wheel, which will push more of the wheel outside. The exact distance from center is measured in millimeters.

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

The stock offest for the GM rims is 31mm, as the number goes up the more the wheel will stick out of the wheelwell.

 

 

Actually, just the opposite...rims with a higher offset (like 31mm) will be tucked inside the fenders, while a lower offset (like 12mm) will put them about even with the fender opening. A 0mm offset or negative offset will kick them outside the fenders.

 

A rim with a zero offset, means that the mounting flange is in the center of the wheel. A positive offset means that the mounting flange is shifted past center, to the outside of the wheel, which will bring more of the wheel inside the fender opening. A negative offset means that the mounting flange is shifted past center, to the inside of the wheel, which will push more of the wheel outside. The exact distance from center is measured in millimeters.

 

 

:withstupid:

Gurrzt Enthusiast

Gurrzt

Posted
Posted

The stock offest for the GM rims is 31mm, as the number goes up the more the wheel will stick out of the wheelwell.

 

 

Actually, just the opposite...rims with a higher offset (like 31mm) will be tucked inside the fenders, while a lower offset (like 12mm) will put them about even with the fender opening. A 0mm offset or negative offset will kick them outside the fenders.

 

A rim with a zero offset, means that the mounting flange is in the center of the wheel. A positive offset means that the mounting flange is shifted past center, to the outside of the wheel, which will bring more of the wheel inside the fender opening. A negative offset means that the mounting flange is shifted past center, to the inside of the wheel, which will push more of the wheel outside. The exact distance from center is measured in millimeters.

 

 

You are correct sir, how then is the stock Yukon Denali rims a 31mm offset as stated by GM? my stock rims appear to have a solid positive offset, that is not much of a lip, far from (to street side) the rims center.

 

Thanks in advance.

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

Yes, that is correct. Your rims have a positive 31mm offset....which means that the mounting flange of the wheel is pushed 31mm to the outside of the wheel....so over half of the rim's total width will be inside the mounting flange...which you can't see. This design will reduce the amout of 'lip' or 'dish' as some call it, because there is less rim on the outside. Rims with a negative offset are just the opposite...they have that 'deep dish' look. Hope that makes sense.

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

No problem! :thumbs: All of that rim offset and backspacing stuff used to be very confusing to me, until I made myself learn it, lol.

  • 3 weeks later...
Stratton Enthusiast

Stratton

Posted
Posted

I just ordered 20x9 fuel kranks with 0 offset and I'm installing the 4" readylift sst mine will stick out a little I have 33x12.50x20 toyo mts negative makes it hard on your truck I've been told

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...