Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Didn't even know such a thing existed! '07 is about as close to new as I'll ever get going forward.

 

Sounds like that was designed for MA highways - nothing but bumper-to-bumper speed-up, slow-down traffic ... constantly.

Yeah, the accord and civic just got auto cruise, and since they have that, Android Auto AND a V6 on the Accord, has me looking at honda.

 

Mazda might lose a sell if they don't get off their butts and integrate Android Auto soon. They were the one of the first companies to announce to join but still haven't given a date yet.

 

 

The Civic has heated rear seat now. Automobile Mag said it has gotten so big inside they almost wonder what the Accord is for anymore. Might look at those too if for nothing else curiosity

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted (edited)

Way outta my league - I have no idea what any of that is. I know Android is a phone, so I'm assuming that all connects, like Ford's system (forget the name ... "Synch"?), where you can play all the phone's music on the radio. I have no use for any of that.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted (edited)

Got some interest already. Guy is driving from Texas to buy a different one but was making a last pass on CL and saw

mine just show up.

 

He said "so nothing is wrong with it? Everything works"

 

And said "pretty much". I thought "nothing left to be wrong!" He was happy to hear about all the new parts, that I'm sure the one he is looking at will probably end up needing. I told him to look up how much those Friggin shocks and struts cost.

 

I'm telling myself a 10-20 mpg increase is worth it. I really don't need this thing or its size.

 

I just found a mazda 6. Has every option mine didn't, a year newer and similar mileage to the one I sold. I'd come out $4,500, 60k miles ahead. For $125 in parts I can stick my pioneer 8100 in it. I'd probably just drive it a year or two and then get a new Mazda. Or one of these now....

 

http://automobiles.honda.com/mobile/accord-coupe/photo-tour.aspx

 

 

Then again the dealer has a cheap used neon green mazda2. Would take 2 minutes to wash and 5 to wax. But why would I even wax it? :lol:

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Didn't agree on price(I think he wanted down another $250, but I'm not 100% on what I want next so no point in going down further). Oh well, I'll get some more use out of these new tires. :lol:

 

I have a bad habit of selling cars right after I put new tires on.

Posted

Didn't agree on price(I think he wanted down another $250, but I'm not 100% on what I want next so no point in going down further). Oh well, I'll get some more use out of these new tires. [emoji38]

 

I have a bad habit of selling cars right after I put new tires on.

I'm about to put some tires on my truck, if it doesn't solve the shake and vibe issues some k2 trucks are known to have (unfortunately I got stuck with one) I'm gonna be trading it in come spring time
Posted

I'm about to put some tires on my truck, if it doesn't solve the shake and vibe issues some k2 trucks are known to have (unfortunately I got stuck with one) I'm gonna be trading it in come spring time

Hmm, after realizing how bad the resale is on the Ford cars(its abysmal, 2 year old Fusion Titanium for under 20k is common around here) I'm thinking I should have gone to 16.5. A two year old Focus Titanium for $14,900 with 20k miles nearby.

 

I could get a loaded 2 year old car with 20k miles and still come out a few thousand ahead.....

 

I could putt around for a year and then let the first year cars I'm looking at get sorted out.

Posted

Nothing to the truck lately, gonna be getting new tires for it in the next week or two though.

 

I have been working on my quad quite a bit lately though. This is what she looks like currently

 

1e2c1835b75cf58e7fdbd67ddc9a0c76.jpg

 

All tore down basically. Upgrading the pitman arm on the power steering unit (waiting on a few parts to get it back together), put new tires on it over the weekend and in the last few weeks I put on a heavy duty front bumper as well as a radiator relocate kit. Also gonna check to see if all my fluids are good for my trip in April, make sure there is no water in the fluids/ oils. Here's the bumper and relocation kit installed

 

010144d6c1b612707370bfbd233aca18.jpg

 

Had it vertical to clean mud and leaves out from underneath the engine

 

2f181325202a793d7a67245d10e39d59.jpg

 

e0ee7e755607451e83efa28770ffbaaf.jpg

 

I'll post up a pic of the completed project by the end of the week. And if you're wondering who makes the kit it is Rubberdown Customs and the tires are 27x9-12 and 27x11-12 Pitbull Growler XOR BG 2.5

  • Like 1
Posted

I threw a new set of meats on mine a couple years ago. Things are great in the mud and snow. Radials too. ITP Mud Lite XTR's.

 

Made the mistake of buying some wheel spacers off eBay - friggin front end will shake you off the machine over 40. More money I need to spend to fix that issue. :banghead:

 

post-65085-0-58510300-1439609852_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-58510300-1439609852_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-58510300-1439609852_thumb.jpg

post-65085-0-58510300-1439609852_thumb.jpg

Posted

I threw a new set of meats on mine a couple years ago. Things are great in the mud and snow. Radials too. ITP Mud Lite XTR's.

 

Made the mistake of buying some wheel spacers off eBay - friggin front end will shake you off the machine over 40. More money I need to spend to fix that issue. :banghead:

 

Mine are also radials. 6 ply as well. I was looking at the xtr's a while back but seemed to have really mixed reviews. I also do a lot of rocky trails and for some reason the reviews for the xtr's weren't that great for rock, even though the tread pattern looks like it would be. I saw basically 90% positive feedback on these Growlers and my second choice were the Maxxis Bighorns. For $30 cheaper I got these so I hope I don't regret them. All my buddies say they look like a good tire so I'm the guinea pig for the group lol
Posted

Good deal!

 

Yeah I've seen the reviews, but I've been an ITP guy for over 20 years. Never had a complaint with any one of them. I don't get out there as much as I should anymore though. Most of the miles on this thing lately are around the yard winching leaning trees down, jockeying trailers, transportation to the neighbor's houses, & plowing snow. Lot less plowing since I got that '94 S10 though. I haven't even put the plow on it so far.

Posted

Good deal!

 

Yeah I've seen the reviews, but I've been an ITP guy for over 20 years. Never had a complaint with any one of them. I don't get out there as much as I should anymore though. Most of the miles on this thing lately are around the yard winching leaning trees down, jockeying trailers, transportation to the neighbor's houses, & plowing snow. Lot less plowing since I got that '94 S10 though. I haven't even put the plow on it so far.

I still have a set of ITP Mud lite XL's on my Kawasaki Prairie 360 but that bike is so under powered idk why we have them on there lol. I'm sure if the bike could actually turn the tires they would work a lot better, have had them since that bike was new and they are at about half tread
Posted

Nice! Got your money's worth out of that set, that's for sure!

 

I had a set of Blackwaters on my '86 TRX250R. Even with that thing spinning in every gear, I got a few hard years out of them, and they were still good when I sold the thing. That was my first ITP purchase.

Posted

Nice! Got your money's worth out of that set, that's for sure!

 

I had a set of Blackwaters on my '86 TRX250R. Even with that thing spinning in every gear, I got a few hard years out of them, and they were still good when I sold the thing. That was my first ITP purchase.

Yeah I looked at those and they were on my list of tires to review they just didn't make the cut. These Pitbull tires seem to be an underdog tire (no pun intended lol). People that have them seem to be very happy with them they just don't have a good fan base like many of the bigger tire companies such as ITP and Maxxis
Posted

I'm about to put some tires on my truck, if it doesn't solve the shake and vibe issues some k2 trucks are known to have (unfortunately I got stuck with one) I'm gonna be trading it in come spring time

Still sticking with GM? What truck do you have in mind?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...