Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

May be going to look at an 06 Sierra 2500 with an LBZ on Saturday. It's got higher mileage (246k) but if it runs and shifts good, no weird noises, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on it. Based on the pics online the interior is super clean, never seen a truck with that mileage have such a clean interior

 

 

 

Get it done! :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

Replaced the 6 Generals with Michelin defenders 245/70r17s.

 

When you're a fatty and they want to make sure their jacks hold lol. 3 ton jacks should have been fine. For some reason it's always funny to me to see my truck up on jacks and tires off.

 

5bb92f49b18d5aa627f802e14d70917d.jpg

 

 

Purdy new tires.

 

4fd82f6e684451c1d3792e28712ca834.jpg

 

Haven't lightened their load if wheel weights in a while so I now have 6ish 5 gallon buckets of wheel weights and trash for traction control. Hope I don't have to help someone move anytime soon as the storage bin I use for wheel weights is already over filled. Guess I need to get off my butt and do some casting.

 

40f7371b56c66f6258fe26d9c1373cf8.jpg

 

 

 

 

That's a big SOB lol!

Posted

Nice Raptor. Saw one in person at the Yamaha dealer yesterday. Here's mine, it's a 2014:

 

66b10ec44298100b5177f2620f638513.jpg

Nice quad didn't know you had a Raptor quad I almost sold it to buy a 450 2stroke cause there comparable in power but my good friend basically brother to me has one and yes it's compatible in power when it runs but I bet he has rebuildt that 450 three times in two years. We have raced and it basically comes down to who ever gets off the line first both quads are stock mines 2016 not sure what year his is. I got stopped by cops in Saskatoon yesterday by RCMP they had me stopped and in cuffs for probley an hour before I was able to leave they stuck me with $80.0 speeding ticket. They had lots of questions about my quad in the box apartnly one just like it out the the RCMP the other day of course I played dumb but they did search me and my 2013 they even made me do breathalyzer. ( I got a bad rap ) but I had just polished and detailed my 13 prior to this so I bet it was the nicest 2013 Chevy Silverado the have ever stopped.
Posted

Picked up a new toy. It's a Bacharach H-10 Pro refrigerant sniffer. Detects leaks as small as .006 oz. per year.

 

Gotta have one when R12 costs $25 per pound these days. Plus it'll make the impossible-to-find leaks on modern systems simple to locate. That equals less stress for me. :thumbs:

 

 

downsize_zps7gw5sx0i.jpg

Posted

Nice quad didn't know you had a Raptor quad I almost sold it to buy a 450 2stroke cause there comparable in power but my good friend basically brother to me has one and yes it's compatible in power when it runs but I bet he has rebuildt that 450 three times in two years. We have raced and it basically comes down to who ever gets off the line first both quads are stock mines 2016 not sure what year his is. I got stopped by cops in Saskatoon yesterday by RCMP they had me stopped and in cuffs for probley an hour before I was able to leave they stuck me with $80.0 speeding ticket. They had lots of questions about my quad in the box apartnly one just like it out the the RCMP the other day of course I played dumb but they did search me and my 2013 they even made me do breathalyzer. ( I got a bad rap ) but I had just polished and detailed my 13 prior to this so I bet it was the nicest 2013 Chevy Silverado the have ever stopped.

 

Who makes a 450 2-stroke? I WANT ONE!!

Posted

Yamaha makes one next year I'm going to buy a 450 Yamaha dirt bike I seem to be loosing my interest in trucks getting more into motocross so need to upgrade from quad to dirt bike soon.

Posted

I would like to try out Yamaha's 450 race bike would be awesome even if I gota rebuild the motor once a year. But do gota say dam my 16 700R 60th anniversary edition Raptor has power. Dam I come up to a jump and just before I go over I crack it wide open and next thing I know I'm 10ft in the air what a feeling.

Posted

Yamaha makes one next year I'm going to buy a 450 Yamaha dirt bike I seem to be loosing my interest in trucks getting more into motocross so need to upgrade from quad to dirt bike soon.

I hear that. I'm happy with my current truck. I'd rather do upgrades to everything I own instead of buy new. I looked at a YZ250F bike earlier this week, freaking $6k! My Raptor was a little over $8k with a 4 year warranty!

Posted (edited)

 

 

Yamaha makes one ....

 

Are you sure it's a 2-stroke? Seems everything made today is 4-stroke, with the exception of a couple Yamaha 250s, and the Evinrude E-Tec outboard.

 

Oh and KTM - those are great!

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

Ya they make a YFZ 450 2stroke but from what they were telling me they seem to be selling more 700R Raptors then the 450 but my 2016 700R Raptor only came with a 6month warrant.

Posted (edited)

The YFZ is a 4-stroke. https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport-atv/models/yfz450

 

The new 4-strokes are so high strung that they need more rebuilds than the old 2-strokes used to. I've done a few valve jobs on 4-stroke dirt bikes. They rip, but boy are they expensive to rebuild! I used to do a complete top end rebuild on my smokers for $100 back in the day, including machine work. Much cheaper with no cams or valves to deal with. :)

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

My almost 1000 pound beast tops out about 75, not too shabby

Ya but I bet you got a big 4x4 I can run down my buddy Deric Martinson's 1000Can am renegade I'm mean I leave him in the dust with my 700Raptor but his 1000 can am also has big lift and massive tires I definitely wouldn't try to take my Rappy were his quad can go. That thing is unstoppable in the mud the mud that can am goes through is just plain stupid.

No I bought a mini bike a few weeks ago that the engine was toast. So I pulled it out of the bike, but it was so screwed up that I couldn't even disassemble it without the use of my handy 5 lb mini sledge.

Posted

The YFZ is a 4-stroke. https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport-atv/models/yfz450

 

The new 4-strokes are so high strung that they need more rebuilds than the old 2-strokes used to. I've done a few valve jobs on 4-stroke dirt bikes. They rip, but boy are they expensive to rebuild! I used to do a complete top end rebuild on my smokers for $100 back in the day, including machine work. Much cheaper with no cams or valves to deal with. :)

I not 100% sure but still certain Yamaha's 450 race bike is still a 2stroke and I haven't had a problem with my 700R Raptor very powerful and reliable machine and I bag the shit outa it. When I hop on it I forget about all the bullshit in my life I forget about all my legal and debt problems and just ride.
Posted

I had an 08 700R before this one with a pipe, and programmer. Had a lot of hours on it when I sold it, and i ran the hell out of that motor. Just did regular oil changes. Still ran like new when I sold it.

Posted

I wana pipe my 16 Raptor well just take the spark arrester out but a buddy of mine did that and sounded awesome but his motor went two weeks later. So I'm leery about touching my 16 700R

Just can't afford a $13 000 mistake.

Posted

When his motor went Yamaha wanted $6000 just for a crate motor pluss install on a 06 or 07 Yamaha Raptor so we just literally destroyed the quad with a massive 824K John Deere loader.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...