Jump to content

Question for the two stroke crowd!!!! :-D


Prokopchuk_9

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I'm in cochrane Alberta, about 25 min NW of Calgary visiting my parents. I brought my cr250 2 smoker to do some mountain riding, it's now jetted for 900ft above sea level and it's about 4000-6000 where we will be riding. I'm new to the whole mountain riding scene. Now we went out today, the bike ran totally fine. No bog at all, completely bog free from top to bottom ran and started fine. BUT it will not idle!! Not at all. Now I understand jetting and know how I do it. I don't want to mess with the carb for just a couple rides just cus it won't idle. I know it might be running a little rich, less air so it's gettin more fuel. What's the worst that can happen?? Just a fouled plug right?? It's not smokin bad, I pulled the plug and it looked a little bit darker than usual but not too bad. Ground strap still had a touch of brown. Anyways just don't want anything bad to happen when we head way out in the mountains for a good ride this weekend. What's your guys thoughts? Should I just leave it? Maybe give the air screw a twist?

Posted

Other than a fouled plug shouldn't hurt anything. Like you said if anything will be a little rich. I'm not an expert but my son rides a 2 stroke KTM Pro Senior and it's turning me into a bike mechanic.

 

May just be able to adjust the idle screw if it has one. The KTM does.

Posted

Nice thanks man! Ya I think I'm okay...I'm half decent. I can rebuild 2 stroke motors, intermediate mechanical skills i would say but no experience with high elevation jetting and or riding in the mountains LOL

Posted

bring extra plugs just incase you foul one. I wouldn't rejet for a couple rides either.

 

When was the last time you put rings in that thing? If it is hard start or wont idle, it could be time.

Posted

It's close to 40 hours on top end now, gobs of compression still. Starts first kick. Everytime. Hot or cold. 1000ft or 4000ft lol. Also stock jetting on this bike, won't idle.

Posted

Tthe no idle is odd. My freind has a 89 that he's completely rebuilt. From the ground up, and it will not idle now... I have no idea why.

 

Every mx bike I've owned will load up in a few seconds and die. But they idle, sorta... for a 2 stroke.

Posted

This bike can idle, it tries to. Once it's warm it will idle for a minute or two back home, eventually die out. This bike im on is completely built from the ground up as well, it's a nice bike. Just doesn't idle, I've read over on thumper talk that most 2 stroke mx bikes the correct jetting won't allow for a very strong idle...and it shows.

 

And now that I'm up 4000 feet, it doesn't idle at all. Not even a bit LOL...just stay on the PIPE so she don't foul out!! BRAAAAAP

Posted

Always better to be a bit rich than lean, I'd ruin a couple plugs before grenading a motor. I like what oldschool327 said, try that and see how it works out cause if she is not bogging out at WOT throttle or wanting to die on the low end grunts then no worries.

 

As others have said, don't waste your time trying to find the right jetting for that altitude if it will only be for a couple rides. My '03 KTM 250sx didn't want to idle until it was totally warmed at the jetting I felt most comfortable with.

 

Grab that throttle and crank! She will do just fine! :thumbs:

Posted

A properly tuned bike should be able to idle. The main jet controls WOT. The slide needle controls mid throttle. The pilot jet and mixture screw controls idle to just off idle. If the bike runs strong everywhere but idle, you need to adjust the idle speed screw until it will at least try to idle and then adjust the mixture screw.

 

If a 2 stroke loads up and dies instead of idleing, then the carb is not adjusted right. Check out post #8 on the following link. That will walk you thru it.

 

http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-31/cr250-idle-screw-location-25328/

Posted

The way the idle is being described, I would make sure there are no vacuum leaks. An engine that is too lean will sometimes "hunt" when trying to idle.

 

2 strokes need to always have the correct fuel/oil mixture, too lean, and not having enough oil in the fuel, will not run long. Try to not run the bike too lean (both air and oil).

Posted

It should also be noted that running too rich can be almost as bad as running too lean. Running too rich leads to excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Not only will that rob performance, but it often flakes off and causes scuffing on the cylinder walls. Carbon is abrassive when it is trapped in the moving parts of the engine. Runnig too rich will also cause fouling of the exhaust system and powervalve as well if your bike is equipped with one.

Posted

Aahh few rides ain't gonna cause to much carbon build up!! That's over along period of time! I think I'll be okay for a few rides! Thanks for the knowledgable opinions though!

Posted

Aahh few rides ain't gonna cause to much carbon build up!! That's over along period of time! I think I'll be okay for a few rides! Thanks for the knowledgable opinions though!

 

 

Yeah, I was not referring to your situation. I was mainly aiming that at the people that jet too rich on purpose because they view it as an added safety factor. runnign lean can cause problems quick, runnign rich can cause problems down the road. It is not that hard to get a bike running right, it is just a little time consuming.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well, I received a message from the dealer...
    • The no sound problem is the audio amplifier. The audio amp has a heatsoak issue in some circuitry which causes it to miss the wakeup handhake. If it doesn't respond within a certain time parameter, then you get no sound. I brought it in and had the software update, but after further testing the tech made the call for a new audio amplifer. The software update I belive gives more time for the amp to respond, but if the amp is defective then you can still get no audio at times. After the update it went 12 days before no sound. After doing some research, apparently the fix is a new (updated) audio amplifer, the circuitry internally has been improved to better deal with heat. I had to wait 2 1/2 weeks because at the time, it was on backorder with no eta. Well the amp came in earlier this week. I had the amp and programming work done today. After picking it up I stopped at a few places, and whenever I started my truck, the audio was on instantly, so whatever they did it appears to work because it's never had sound that quickly......Hope this helps
    • Make sure the latch mechanism is properly greased. Look at the catch for fresh marks/scratches. And see if it has moved a little, too. 
    • I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's    I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.
    • Interesting question which you partly answered in the word 'potentially'. I think that is going to be a 'point of reference' inquiry. What are the touchstones?    This will sound petty but it is the main source of end fighting in threads on this topic. Define a motors "Life". Think about the various arguments that have been entertained on these pages in that very argument.    I can only speak from my viewpoint. Engine "Life" in my world is defined by power cylinder integrity. For the majority of engines it is the bore/ring interface that quits first. Loss of seal. Oil consumption and loss of power. Most Pro motor builders would agree and there is a good deal of information on using "Leak Down" as a primary indicator of bore integrity. At home a compression test is more the thing. If we can agree on that then I think CC Jensen has done its homework and I'd find it valid.    Now by my own definition, Dizzy, wife's Ecotec 2.4 I-4 has been dead since about 80K miles. And yet we have logged over 200K miles more on it. "Life" and "Usefulness" are therefore independent.      I know a mature fella right now who has just hit 300K on a Mitsubishi 3A92 NA MPFI motor and has done compression test every 100K. It was 205 psi after break in and is now about 195 and still even. He uses shelf oil but good filters and adheres to a 3K mile OCI. He even do UOA's on each of them for the first 50K.      I also know a fleet mechanic with that same motor that gets 300 to 500 K out of them but the are oil using, wristpin sloppy, skirt slapping motors. He ran one with a piston pin so loose the piston was bouncing off the cylinder head for about 20K miles before he called TOD. Both of them claim success.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...