Jump to content

3" lift for 2012 silverado??

Chazbuchanan

Recommended Posts

Chazbuchanan New Member

Chazbuchanan

Posted
Posted

I want to put a 3" suspension lift on my truck but there r so many rhis is the first truck i have had and i just want to lift it a little nd put some bigger tires on it it sits high for me right now because im only 5'6" and i just want my truck to look good i just dont know anything about lifts or what lift i need to buy any help would be grately appreciated. Thanks a lot

thrasher2010 Enthusiast

thrasher2010

Posted
Posted

Not to highjack your thread , but i am in the same boat that you are in... Its my first truck too.. Im thinking about leveling mine with a Readylift 2.25" level kit , buy i want to also maybe lift/level it. O more then 4".. Just not sure

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
Posted

From what Ive read, mostly on this site, you should stay away from any of the 3" suspension kits on the market. It seems that they will all kill your front end. You would be better off going with a 2" leveling kit (which is the max you should lift your stock front suspension), a 3" body lift, or a 4" lift kit.

 

The level is the cheapest route (about a$100 - $150), but will not allow you to run quite as wide of a tire, especially on an aftermarket rim.

 

The body lift is the next cheapest (around $350), and will maintain stock suspension geometry, thus keeping all your steering joints happy. But, it probably wont allow for anything larger than the 2' leveling kit will without some trimming.

 

The 4" is the most expensive route ($1k+), but will allow the extra height and still keep the front steering components somewhat happy because of the design of the kit. This will also probably require aftermarket rims, but will allow you the most tire clearance. You should be able to clear a 33x12.50 with these type kits.

 

Personally, I have a compbination of the leveling kit and BL. But, I also have an 05 which allows me to run a 35. If you opt for this setup, you should be able to fit a 33 easily on a '12.

Chazbuchanan New Member

Chazbuchanan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From what Ive read, mostly on this site, you should stay away from any of the 3" suspension kits on the market. It seems that they will all kill your front end. You would be better off going with a 2" leveling kit (which is the max you should lift your stock front suspension), a 3" body lift, or a 4" lift kit.

The level is the cheapest route (about a$100 - $150), but will not allow you to run quite as wide of a tire, especially on an aftermarket rim.

The body lift is the next cheapest (around $350), and will maintain stock suspension geometry, thus keeping all your steering joints happy. But, it probably wont allow for anything larger than the 2' leveling kit will without some trimming.

The 4" is the most expensive route ($1k+), but will allow the extra height and still keep the front steering components somewhat happy because of the design of the kit. This will also probably require aftermarket rims, but will allow you the most tire clearance. You should be able to clear a 33x12.50 with these type kits.

Personally, I have a compbination of the leveling kit and BL. But, I also have an 05 which allows me to run a 35. If you opt for this setup, you should be able to fit a 33 easily on a '12.

 

 

Im curious is to why 3" would hurt worse than a 6" or whatever. Only reason i ask is wouldnt the lower to stock you are the easier on the joints? Im afraid of tearing stuff up lifting my tru k i have a leveling kit but have not put it on yet i just dont want to tear stuff up.

cracked_up Enthusiast

cracked_up

Posted
Posted

The leveling kit is fine, the 3" kit does not drop the front housing or change the spindles thus creating greater angles on the ball joint and tie rod ends. This causes binding and quicker wear.

The 4 and 6" kits drop everything to keep the angles flat like stock. Stay away from any 3" kit and any 4" kit without new spindles and drop brackets. This pic shows how you want to keep your angles

DSC00012.jpg

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
Posted

The leveling kit is fine, the 3" kit does not drop the front housing or change the spindles thus creating greater angles on the ball joint and tie rod ends. This causes binding and quicker wear.

The 4 and 6" kits drop everything to keep the angles flat like stock. Stay away from any 3" kit and any 4" kit without new spindles and drop brackets. This pic shows how you want to keep your angles

DSC00012.jpg

 

 

What he said.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

Why don't they make a 3" kit for the 900 trucks that drops everything to keep decent angles like they make for the 800's?

BlackZ71Silverado Senior Enthusiast

BlackZ71Silverado

Posted
Posted

Why don't they make a 3" kit for the 900 trucks that drops everything to keep decent angles like they make for the 800's?

 

 

Totally different front suspension between the two. That may have something to do with it but not sure?

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

Why don't they make a 3" kit for the 900 trucks that drops everything to keep decent angles like they make for the 800's?

 

 

Skyjacker makes a complete 3" kit. Most don't because it's not cost effective.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

Why don't they make a 3" kit for the 900 trucks that drops everything to keep decent angles like they make for the 800's?

 

Skyjacker makes a complete 3" kit. Most don't because it's not cost effective.

 

 

 

Do they really? Is it on there website?

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
Posted

Looks like they do a 3" instead of a 4". For that money, you could lift 3 or 4 trucks with a BL.

 

I got 5" of lift with less than half of what that 3" kit costs. Just saying.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

Looks like they do a 3" instead of a 4". For that money, you could lift 3 or 4 trucks with a BL.

 

I got 5" of lift with less than half of what that 3" kit costs. Just saying.

 

 

 

Not a big fan of body lifts. I think trucks look good with them, but I wouldn't put one on my truck. I also don't really want anymore than a 3" suspension lift, but I would go 4" if I had to.

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

Why don't they make a 3" kit for the 900 trucks that drops everything to keep decent angles like they make for the 800's?

 

Skyjacker makes a complete 3" kit. Most don't because it's not cost effective.

 

 

 

Do they really? Is it on there website?

 

 

10-4

 

http://skyjacker.com...hp?ProdID=21756

 

C7361PK-H.jpg

 

I would do a 3" body lift + 2" leveling kit over this any day.

cracked_up Enthusiast

cracked_up

Posted
Posted

Why don't they make a 3" kit for the 900 trucks that drops everything to keep decent angles like they make for the 800's?

 

Skyjacker makes a complete 3" kit. Most don't because it's not cost effective.

 

 

 

Do they really? Is it on there website?

 

 

10-4

 

http://skyjacker.com...hp?ProdID=21756

 

C7361PK-H.jpg

 

I would do a 3" body lift + 2" leveling kit over this any day.

 

For the price on their site I would do BDS. Rancho or CST before this kit

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 251 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • chris21
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By chris21 · Posted

      With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...