Jump to content

GMC 3500 HD 6.0L performance,can it perform?


Recommended Posts

Posted

is there a way to wake these motors up and bypass all the garbage I presume GM has holding them back? you get into a mud puddle and as soon as the tires start spinning the motors seem to cut out,and all the trucks we have do it,I mean come on these trucks won't even spin there tires and they are all around gutless,can a person buy a programmer to bypass all this crap?we recently added a new ram 2500 HD to the fleet with the 5.7 hemi because after test driving it I realized it will spin circles around our 6.0 gms all day.

Posted

you need a tune such as blackbear to remove torque management. the stock programming has made gm trucks gutless for years. sad to say but both dodge and ford are much strunger feeling the way they get the power to the wheels, pretty pathetic when the competition can lay posi rubber 10 feet and the gms wont even spin a tire with or without traction control. hell bone stock old v10 dodge 1-tons can smoke the tires just punching it but try that in a gm with anything up to the 8.1 and you will do nothing but embarrass yourself. im die hard gm but ill never buy another new one.

Posted

I am from Canada so not sure about you US guys but up here there is no traction control button on our 6.0L HDs.. I agree with you 100% 454ss

Posted

I have two 07 1 tons for work trucks, both 6.0Ls and duallies. Both do the job just fine, don't recommend them for highway use while towing heavy. As anteater said, they do not have a TC button to turn off, but from the few times I have spun the tires in the snow it does not seem to bog down like it had Traction control hindering it. I do wish they sat a bit higher for more ground clearence though.

Posted

My 6.0 3500HD does just fine. At the cost of tires, I prefer not to spin mine so I leave traction control on. I tow a 12k lb fifth wheel rv and it handles it just fine (at 8 mpg that is). I just returned from 300 mile trip with the RV through the Adirondack Mts in NY and will say there was no grade that the 6.0 couldn't handle. I to keep it cranking at 4500 rpm consistently on larger hills but that is where the torque is on these engines. Overall, I was impressed.

Once I rack some more miles on the odometer, I may get a custom tune. I tuned my last 6.0 in my 08 2500HD and it made a difference.

 

Steve

Posted
I am from Canada so not sure about you US guys but up here there is no traction control button on our 6.0L HDs.. I agree with you 100% 454ss

 

Where you from? If your from Alberta I could direct you to a very good reputable tuner outside of Edmonton. I have a lq4 6.0L with the tall geared 4l80e and my truck walks all over any hemi of the same generation/crew cab. I raced a brand new megacab 2500 hemi too, was dead even till about 40 mph it slowly got smaller in the mirror. With a good tune, CAI 6 liters can get up and go. My truck will beat any comparable truck in size aroun the same years. Except a diesel with the fuel turned up Lol...

Posted

its great you got yours running good, point being made is after spending so much on it initialy we shouldnt have to be spending on top of that just to get them to run like they should off the lot. its like buying a new 1-ton and having to buy new springs just to be able to tow 10,000lbs, thats the reason i bought the truck instead of a half ton, it should be ready to perform off the lot. there has always been performance left on the table to get but the amount left out there now with the electronics is unacceptable.

Posted

and its not about spinning the tires its about the truck being able to perform the task its intended for..while trying to pull my trencher on its trailer behind my 3500hd across a farmers field I came upon a soft spot so when I get into the gas to try to gain speed and power through the soft spot the dam thing just shuts down..so now its stuck and someone has to tow it out.nothing more embarassing than a work truck that can't work.especially when the ford/chev/dodge truck battle is always going on.dam embarassing gettng towed out by a ford then having to hear about..lol.anyway my current work truck i jumped into the dodge but still have 2 6.0L hds in the fleet and as much as I love my gms I am having a hard time buying anymore..one guy in the shop wants a ford next!!makes me sick in the stomach just thinking about it..

Posted
and its not about spinning the tires its about the truck being able to perform the task its intended for..while trying to pull my trencher on its trailer behind my 3500hd across a farmers field I came upon a soft spot so when I get into the gas to try to gain speed and power through the soft spot the dam thing just shuts down..so now its stuck and someone has to tow it out.nothing more embarassing than a work truck that can't work.especially when the ford/chev/dodge truck battle is always going on.dam embarassing gettng towed out by a ford then having to hear about..lol.anyway my current work truck i jumped into the dodge but still have 2 6.0L hds in the fleet and as much as I love my gms I am having a hard time buying anymore..one guy in the shop wants a ford next!!makes me sick in the stomach just thinking about it..

 

Dodge and ford both have traction control buddy, learn how the electronics work in your vehicle and maybe it won't "shut down"...you can shut the traction control off. I'm sorry but I know that a 1ton gmc can do what it was made to do man. Just like any other brand...did they make them to tow heavy shit across soft fields?? Not exactly. You come on here asking about how you can make your vehicle perform better we told you. Get a tune...it will blow away any gasser ford or hemi for $350. If you are in Alberta like I asked, look up Peynton performance out of drayton valley. Excellent tuner.

Posted
and its not about spinning the tires its about the truck being able to perform the task its intended for..while trying to pull my trencher on its trailer behind my 3500hd across a farmers field I came upon a soft spot so when I get into the gas to try to gain speed and power through the soft spot the dam thing just shuts down..so now its stuck and someone has to tow it out.nothing more embarassing than a work truck that can't work.especially when the ford/chev/dodge truck battle is always going on.dam embarassing gettng towed out by a ford then having to hear about..lol.anyway my current work truck i jumped into the dodge but still have 2 6.0L hds in the fleet and as much as I love my gms I am having a hard time buying anymore..one guy in the shop wants a ford next!!makes me sick in the stomach just thinking about it..

 

Dodge and ford both have traction control buddy, learn how the electronics work in your vehicle and maybe it won't "shut down"...you can shut the traction control off. I'm sorry but I know that a 1ton gmc can do what it was made to do man. Just like any other brand...did they make them to tow heavy shit across soft fields?? Not exactly. You come on here asking about how you can make your vehicle perform better we told you. Get a tune...it will blow away any gasser ford or hemi for $350. If you are in Alberta like I asked, look up Peynton performance out of drayton valley. Excellent tuner.

 

 

 

thanks for the help and no I am not in Alberta...

Posted

I dunno, the HD pickup was designed to haul loads, spinning tires is for the CTS-V and Camaro.

 

My truck feels and handles much better than it's weak 9400 tow rating (thanks to the silly 3.73s) would have you believe.

 

My only complaint with the 6.0 is NOT that it won't burn my expensive E-rate rubber on every tap of the throttle, but that it is the WEASKEST rated HD pickup on the market, surpassed by many half-ton max-tow packages.

 

Seriously, couldn't GM work out at least a 10k rating with 3.73s? But I digress.

 

There is a reason the 6.0 is in the HDs and not, say the 6.2 (yet).

 

The reason is that HD pickups are for work and reliability. Spinning wheels and high end HP is not for them. This is even more apperent when you look at the 3500HD's rating which lists the peak torque value instead of peak HP, despite having the exact same engine as the 2500HD.

 

You are gaining a tried and true work-horse of a motor, as well as transmission and throttle response calibrated for towing and reliability. Despite my annoyance with a sub-par tow rating, I'm actually quite pleased with the drive train and one of the selling points was that it was optimized for reliability rather than HP tire-shredding marketing.

Posted
I dunno, the HD pickup was designed to haul loads, spinning tires is for the CTS-V and Camaro.

 

My truck feels and handles much better than it's weak 9400 tow rating (thanks to the silly 3.73s) would have you believe.

 

My only complaint with the 6.0 is NOT that it won't burn my expensive E-rate rubber on every tap of the throttle, but that it is the WEASKEST rated HD pickup on the market, surpassed by many half-ton max-tow packages.

 

Seriously, couldn't GM work out at least a 10k rating with 3.73s? But I digress.

 

There is a reason the 6.0 is in the HDs and not, say the 6.2 (yet).

 

The reason is that HD pickups are for work and reliability. Spinning wheels and high end HP is not for them. This is even more apperent when you look at the 3500HD's rating which lists the peak torque value instead of peak HP, despite having the exact same engine as the 2500HD.

 

You are gaining a tried and true work-horse of a motor, as well as transmission and throttle response calibrated for towing and reliability. Despite my annoyance with a sub-par tow rating, I'm actually quite pleased with the drive train and one of the selling points was that it was optimized for reliability rather than HP tire-shredding marketing.

 

Not really man, if you have a good tuner. Someone who knows what they are doing with EFI live, you can have both. Your mistaking a tune with a full out blown alcohol dragster. A tune in most cases is better on your tranny and engine. The gassers you have a choice for 4:10's or 3:73s don't you?? The gas trucks you have the option, only duramax comes with 3:73's. And I don't care what anybody says, the gms out perform hemi's towing. After 100k kms hemi's rev out like a loose POS. I've use all 3 brands towing, diesels too. For work trucks in some of the toughest environments any normal guy would never do to his pickup truck. Fords are hands down, THE toughest 1 ton available. Until the last couple years they just didn't have any power. But they do now, that new 6.2 has some balls. So does the new 6.7, my dad bought one. The gms perform well too but they just don't have the ground clearance...and the torsion front end doesnt compete with solid front axle IMO. Dodge truck front end don't last, really hard on uppers and lowers. GM trucks are awesome with a good tune, by far the most comfortable riding 3/4 ton truck out there. Perfect for me...fords just ride like shit. And I dot like the look of them...they have power just don't like the way the tranny acts. The other manufacturers say you can tow 10k...ever tried it???? Without a duallie it SUCKS. I do agree tho, GM needs to keep up with the HP race....a $350 tune will do you fine. And you can still keep the factory tow haul mode...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...