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Replacing brake lines 2001 gmc sierra 2500hd


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Posted

Well, my brake lines rusted thru! I've been researching ordering replacement lines. The best price I've found so far is this http://inlinetube.co...g-In-34-Dif.htm. I was wondering if anyone has used these replacement lines. Or if there is a better place to order these, please let me know.

 

Also, what can I expect when doing this job? How long did it take? My brother & father said they will help. The only good thing is my truck is my back up vehicle. I have little Honda that I use as a DD.

 

Thanks for any info.

 

It's 4x4

Posted

I think thats the company I bought from when I did my Jeep. They fit very well. The long tubes will be folded somewhat to be easier to ship. It won't be a short job. Do one line at a time.

 

Mark

Posted

Thanks for the reply. It looks like it's gona be a pain in the rear. Probably order them later in the week.

Posted

I did mine last year. Bought the prebent kit from summit. Did it on a gravel driveway. The one going under the bed to the rear axle was a pain.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just wanted to update this.

 

I did order the kit from Inline tube. It was $299 delivered. I ordered it on Friday evening and it arrived on Wednesday afternoon. I installed it with the help of my dad on Thursday. As stated in a post above, the rear line was a real pain in the butt! After installation I found out I had two calipers with seized bleeder valves. So they had to be replaced. Just a little pointer, when your finished and ready to bleed the lines, don't forget to bleed the master cylinder first! It took a few times trying to bleed the lines until we realized we forgot to bleed MS. What a difference. Thanks to all who posted in reply to my first post.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I know this is an older post but I'll put in my experience replacing the rusted brake lines on my'02 Sierra 2500HD because I picked up some good (and bad) info online about the job. First off, I bought a SS kit from Summit (Classic Tube). The fit was perfect and delivery was pretty quick. For some reason the delivery time for standard or expedited was the same, so I choose standard. Came in 3 days. Basically the job is a 7 on a 1 to 10 scale. It's committing and it took me about 6 hours, by myself, in my garage with the truck on wheel dollies. A couple of tips while it's all fresh in my mind. Draw a diagram for the line routing to the abs controller and on the frame rail where the 4 lines travel (left front). Siphon all of the old fluid out of the master cylinder. The dreaded line going to the rear and under the bed isn't all that bad. I didn't remove/loosen the bed or fuel tank and that line took me about 40 minutes to route. You have to remove the old brake line to have room to feed the new pre bent line. Use a long screwdriver with a flat blade to pop off the hold down clips that you can see along the frame. Then cut the line on both sides of the tank and pull it out. Tape the ends of the new line and feed it from front to back. Right where the bed meets the cab there is some kind of electronic module that was in the way. One bolt to remove to get it out of the way. Don't see how I could have run the new brake line without doing this. Then the axle lines are easy. For the front, the hardest was the RF which goes from the abs controller all the way to the right front wheel. If I did it again, I would for sure take all of the lines going forward from the abs controller off first, then install one by one. I tried to do one at a time which is not the way to do it. Put the RF one in first because it goes along the frame rail closest to the engine, and is troublesome to route. Then the LF and master cylinder lines aren't too bad to do. All in all glad I replaced them all because now I don't have to worry about my brakes failing.

Posted

I did the same exact job as mauijim04. Only difference is for the rear line I removed the bed. I don't know what bed you have but mine is an 8 foot and extended cab so my line was too long to try and feed. I didn't want to risk kinking it or something so I just unbolted the bed and off it came. Oh and I had to replace all four calipers because the bleeder valves snapped off and I didn't want to fool with removing the screw.

 

One last thing, I did it all outside in mid March in ohio because the truck didn't fit in the garage. That was a cold experience

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I know tis is a bit old, and likely posted elsewhere, but GM has a coated kit that is much less $$. Somewhere around $100. As far as the bed goes, I remove the bolts, and un-bolt the fuel filler neck from the body on the left side, loosen the bolts on the right, lift up the bed, block it up, tilted toward the right, using the right bolts as a hinge.Then feed the lines through the clips. You may have to un-bolt the evac vent valve to feed the line on some models.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Old thread here, I know but...

I'm stuck out of town here with leaky brake lines (my luck).

Mech. is ordering pre-bent lines. Says fuel tank removal is required.

Anybody with experience know if Is this true for '03 1500 reg.cab 8' bed?

Posted

Old thread here, I know but...

I'm stuck out of town here with leaky brake lines (my luck).

Mech. is ordering pre-bent lines. Says fuel tank removal is required.

Anybody with experience know if Is this true for '03 1500 reg.cab 8' bed?

It is necessary unless he pulls the bed off. I pulled the bed for my lines but I had help. For a mechanic working solo, tank drop is probably easy.

Posted

It is necessary... For a mechanic working solo, tank drop is probably easy.

Thanks for that, Peter.

I've experienced the Christmas from Hell.

Fuel pump went when visiting in Maryland (on Xmas morning! HA. Nothing open).

Brake lines went in Delaware a day later.

(No, I'm not a total knucklehead...truck has been lovingly maintained)

Was supposed to be back in Mass. late Thu.

Won't make it back till Wed now.....after $$$.

The odds are staggering that all this should hit me while out of town...Oh, well...

Posted

When my lines went, they went as my sister was pulling out of the driveway. She pushed the pedal and it went to the floor. We had no warning. Luckily, our driveway is flat so we pushed the truck back in and she sat for almost a year. I had it fixed up again this summer and then I discovered the tick I thought was lifters actually was a cracked flexplate. Ouch. 4 months and a grand later, shes up and going again. Now all that's left is....

shocks

motor mounts

New muffler

parking brake cable

fuel lines

and a spare tire whinch that rusted and broke.

oh and all the cosmetic crap. Rusted fuel door, front bumper that another truck owner kindly backed into and drove off, head liner falling etc.

 

2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD. Crazy that my 40k truck has these issues. 10 years old and 89,000 miles. Original owner. So I definitely feel your pain.

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