Jump to content

Introducing wrenches and pistons


Zane

Recommended Posts

Posted

A long time ago we used to have wrenches to designate graphically how many posts a member had. The more posts, the more wrenches one had next to their username when they made a post.

 

Those wrenches make a comeback today along with a new post icon, pistons.

 

How many posts do you need to make have wrenches and pistons next to your username? Here's how many:

 

0 Posts = 0 Wrenches

1-49 Posts = 1 Wrench

50-99 Posts = 2 Wrenches

100-249 Posts = 3 Wrenches

250-499 Posts = 4 Wrenches

500-749 Posts = 5 Wrenches

750-999 Posts = 6 Wrenches

 

Once you have 1,000 posts, you graduate to pistons

1000-1499 Posts = 2 Pistons

1500-1999 Posts = 4 Pistons

2000-2499 Posts = 6 Pistons

2500+ = 8 Pistons

 

For users over 2500 posts, no worries. We'll have something better than pistons for you in the near future.

 

Enjoy! :cheers:

Posted

How bout for users with over 10K posts :lol:

 

Still working on the gold/diamond/platinum encrusted fenders to render in photoshop. :lol:

Posted

Ryan you get some gold plated 100 spoke 13" Daytons for that

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

Cool idea! Ive almost got the max for pistons now. This is the most I've ever posted on any forum.

Posted
How bout for users with over 10K posts :lol:

 

Whoa, you passed me! :D

 

I am over 15k

 

 

Ryan

 

 

Posted

You could make the 2.5k + people have complete engines and 10k+ have supercharged engines?

Posted

I think the blower should be for 5k+, since I'm on my way there.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

Post more. There is an Off-Topic section to BS in, post pics of your truck, post some knowledge you picked up to help out other new guys. You will get there. I have faith in you.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work.   Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra.   If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported!   I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?
    • Its just that it worked on 2024 trucks on this forum and my 2025 model truck, unless GM did something since that point to screw up access or Autel has a bad update. I haven't had need to use my tool since last year when I did the changes to the placard pressure settings and since then I updated the software on my Autel but have not plugged into the OBD so hard to say if I would get a surprise as well.    All I know last year when I bought the Autel I was warned to be sure to update it before I tried using the unit as they said who knows how long ago unit itself was actually manufactured as the software could be way out of date. 
    • And so you had gone through the process of registering and updating the tool and so on ?. All I can say is that on the front page as the tool fires up you go to advanced mode, then vehicle model comes up and you choose Silverado ( not the DRW or EV  since your a single rear wheel ) , then I think its choice 2 which is 07/2021 - 12/2026 ( 433mhz 13542523 ) as that is the series of tpms sensors and then go down to choice 5 which is tire type/pressure selection. Hit yes and it says to connect to OBD port and turn ignition on.    Having said this, I updated the software in my tool lately and these year range choices look different from the past due to them doing some updates it would appear and I have not connected up to the OBD port since last year so hopefully I am not in for a surprise with them screwing up the software and that it won't work on my truck anymore either.    So my question is, when you plugged into the OBD and started your truck it had that message on the Autel screen "vehicle not supported" ?. That does seem odd as tire shops would be pissed right off if hey can't use their tool on the model year after mine that in theory is supposed to be much the same truck ... unless GM did some change in the computer system to block certain things from access. 
    • Understanding and using modern scan tools is its own body of knowledge. I had little hope that would work...programming access to the BCM is probably required and that is not easy for us consumers. Expensive scan tool, GM programming subscription, online authentication, etc.   It also may be a matter of finding the right dealer to program it for you. Flashing a modern BCM might be a little too advanced for most tire shops.
    • Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...