Jump to content

3"BL on 2011 sierra extended cab


Recommended Posts

Posted

finally got to install my 3" BL on my truck today with the help of a buddy (the same one that we installed the budget 4" lift last weekend).

The kit fit like a dream, it was time consuming, it took the claimed 6-8 hours as its stated. everything fit perfect, the rear bumper fit like a glove. very impressed. this is my 3rd body lift install.

 

What i noticed for other people to watch out for when lifting with a manual transfer case. there is a bracket that holds transmission lines that the linkage hits and it will not go into 4wd, it goes into neutral just fine and thats about it... bend the bracket up about 1/2" or better and it works slick!

Second thing, anyone questioning about the transmission linkage, good news its a cable linkage, so no problems there.

If you have a CAI like i do (K&N) you will have to re route the radiator hose. it gets pinched in between the CAI and the frame.

Otherwise its a pretty straight forward install. it was absolutely worth going from a 1.25" BL to the 3"BL.

 

On one final note, if you just bought a new truck and are thinking about doing a BL in the future PLEASE take out all your bolts one by one and put never sieze on them. that way when the truck is 2 years old you wont have a stripped body mount bolt.

post-73042-230557_thumb.jpg

post-73042-230557_thumb.jpg

post-73042-230557_thumb.jpg

post-73042-230557_thumb.jpg

Posted

Need better pics

I 2nd this

 

Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

Posted

I would add them! And some fender liners!before

3edyrebu.jpg

dysysuqu.jpg after! It will cover that gap nicely

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Posted

that does look pretty sweet, what did you do in the front? im thinking about making some gap guards, but am having a brain fart on what to use. I do construction for a living, and know about the sticky rubber for roofs, but thats not really what i want to use. something similar, but not sticky would be ideal...

im really thinking about the towin mirrors, they help give the truck a whole new attitude IMO (from the front/rear)

Posted

Definitely do the fender liners. They made a huge improvement on my truck over traditional gap guards. As far as the front, just find a large sheet of rubber and use that. Or just buy the pre made ones. Tows are always a good addition as well. And get some new steps that mount to the cab. :thumbs:

Posted

I didn't do anything in the front

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Posted

Definitely do the fender liners. They made a huge improvement on my truck over traditional gap guards. As far as the front, just find a large sheet of rubber and use that. Or just buy the pre made ones. Tows are always a good addition as well. And get some new steps that mount to the cab. :thumbs:

 

i would love some new steps, but after my tire purchase, and lift purchase money is a little tight right now. im thinking about modifying the step bars i have now. the hardest bracket will be the front one. I appreciate all the input for sure. i have power/ heated mirrors in my truck now, and i want to keep it that way. you can buy plain jane tow's for just over $100, but for what i want they are closer to 200. I will post more pictures after the new tires get slapped on

Posted

I went to my local dealer. I think I paid 112

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2026 3500HD.  Mostly empty. Grocery getter. What tire pressure are you running for 37x12.50x20. I have 37x12.50R20 Toyo Open  Country RT pro and been running around 55 lbs front and rear and it's too much. Tires are wearing more in the middle. Toyo says 45 front and 50 rear. Chalk test and it's still too much. I lowered it to 40 front 44 rear see what happens. 
    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...