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I am new to this… but I saw some of your replies to another person doing the same as me… trying to replace the temp control actuator in my 05 GMC SIERRA, And can NOT get to it… how do I get the center console panels off, do I have to take ALL of them off to get to it? 80481681120__F97CE005-C5E5-4FBF-9589-1388214E3586.MOV
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By Jus Cruisin · Posted
I will be one of those "blinded". One, I like new shiny things. Two, I've never kept any of them beyond the 3/36. Three, I don't finance anything. Four, yep, it's a waste of money....so,what? I'm doing my part of keeping automotive industry going and keeping my neighbors, most of whom are in it, employed. 😉 By the way this is the "signature... ¬ -
Although there is a "recommended" weight by those who sell trailers, my experience has been that they are way too aggressive in their information, for me at least. My '22 with 6.6 Gas, has a payload of about 3400 lbs and depending on your specs (I don't have 4WD so it has a bit higher Payload than others) yours will likely be different. Payload is one of the most important numbers for towing. Although you "could" tow the max trailer weight for your truck, I, personally, would not go close to that number. Having said that, a lot depends on how/where you will be towing. I live in the LMD of BC and often tow to Denver, Co, along interstates (flat and mountains) and I find I need to keep it in 5th (6spd) for the trip and travel at around 65mph. This is for a trailer dry weight of just under 3500lbs. If you are only doing local, short trips, it would not be that big an issue if you had a heavier unit. You will be surprised how much stuff you load the trailer with, so I would only recognize the trailers "full" GVWR weight rating, then decide on the appropriate trailer from that number. If you are worrying about how much stuff you should be putting in a trailer, you might have too large a rig from the get-go. Once again, depending on what terrain/distance in which you will be pulling. Marv -
davester, Thanks for the response, how ever, I think I am now a bit more confused than I was before I posted - - After I posted, I actually found a YT video of a guy who replaced his Module (above tire) and he only disconnected the ground cable of the battery, but you describe rubbing the two cables together after disconnecting. I presume that is to do as you describe and eliminate any residual energy? - When I picked up the Module (between my posting and reading your response) from the dealer, I specifically asked about any re-programming and he stated it was not necessary as it was simply plug and play. Don't know how knowledgeable he is, though. - The video I watched also showed the Module plug to be difficult to "unlock" and remove, but there was no mention of silicone, although the video did show a bunch of dust/dirt in and around the plug (old truck) during removal. Are you talking about silicone that was applied by the factory, or silicone that you applied prior to plugging in? Thanks again, Marv
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By mandrautomotive · Posted
Looking for a clean, factory-style lighting upgrade for your 2022+ GMC Hummer EV? M&R Automotive's 40" Bumper Light Bar PRO features a vehicle-specific, bolt-on design with no drilling or cutting required. Choose a bright white or yellow main beam, both paired with an amber DRL backlight for a sleek OEM-inspired look. The kit includes a curved LED light bar, powder-coated brackets, and all necessary mounting hardware. Learn more or order yours See how it installs and looks on the vehicle:
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