Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What do you guys use to clean up your wheel wells. When I was my truck I usually just use soap and a brush to clean them up and get all the dirt, etc off but they still look faded. I'm wanting to but something on them to make them look new again and shine.

 

I thought something like the spray tire foam might work but wanted to see if there was something else out there.

 

When I would take my truck to the dealer and the would wash it, they would spray something in the wheel wells to make them shine like crazy and it seemed to last for at least a week.

Posted

After your wheels wells are clean spray Adam's Undercarraige Spray on there, works amazing! & it smells like grape Kool-Aid!
Just make sure you get a good APC (all purpose cleaner) to attack the wheel wells then brush & rinse!

Posted

I haven't tried this with the plastic liners on newer trucks, but back when they were all metal I would spray the wheel wells with gloss black spray paint after cleaning them and letting them dry. They would look great and last a long time. Now I just use a rag with soap and water to clean them every time I wash my truck. If you stay on it, they will continue looking good. Sometimes I will spray some Stoners Trim Shine or Tire Shine in there.

Posted

Simple Green works well. Just spray and leave it for a few minutes and then clean the wells using a scrub brush. After cleaning them, apply Stoners Trim Shine or Armor All for a clean look finish.

Posted

P21S wheel cleanser is the best cleanser .it has no harsh smell.it is very helpful to break down the grime,break dust & other comtaminant .for best result use E-Z detail brush & pressure water with cleanser.

Posted

I use some apc and or griot garage undercarriage spray

 

Do you have the plastic liners?

 

 

Ryan

 

 

Posted

I just use the leftover soap and water when I wash the truck. Comes clean every time!

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...