Jump to content

bad to run truck hard when its cold??


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm wondering if it is hard on my 5.3 to run it hard when the temp is low outside? And is it good practice to let my motor warm up before driving?

Posted

Its never a bad thing to let your truck warm up, but I don't know anyone that sits around and waits for their truck to get to temp before driving. You wouldn't want to totally mash on the gas before your fluids could warm up and get thinned out a little, but as long as you have oil pressure you should be good to go.

Posted

in temps below 40 degrees, I'd allow a minute for gas engines, to allow the oil pressure to drop and get circulating. Remember when cold, fluids are thick, including tranny, oil, power steering, and brake. Diesels? 2-3 minutes. Avoiding hard acceleration for the first 5 min of driving is also not a bad idea.

Posted

two words if you can afford it.

 

Remote Start

 

Love mine, even tho the coldest it gets once in a blue moon here in So. Ca is 35 degrees I still use mine every day. Let her run for a minute or three while I'm grabbing my keys and other stuff headed out the door. My 08 didn't have it so on cold days I'd leave her running before taking off.

Posted

I live in So Cal also and once in a while when it hits 30 - 35 I use the remote start for a few mintues to mainly get the heater going.

 

On other days, I just start the truck and take off, but drive it slow the first couple of miles til I get on the freeway.

The temp gauge is about half way by then.

Posted

Synthetic oil is a big help in cold weather. It won't make much difference at 35 above but 0 and below your truck will start much better and the oil will pump a lot easier as it doesn't thicken up in cold temps like dino oil.

Posted

its alway good to let it warm up, how about if I ask you to run 100 meters as soon as you wake up in the cold morning ?

Posted

Crank it. Slam it into gear. Stomp the pedal to floor and drive it like you stole it. :jester:

Posted

its alway good to let it warm up, how about if I ask you to run 100 meters as soon as you wake up in the cold morning ?

I understand your point but I don't feel it is relevant. That only feels bad to a human because we have nerves. The internal steel parts of your engine do not feel anything. In the human body, muscles can tear and become damaged if they are not stretched. You can't stretch the metal in your engine, if it did, you would have a pile of parts on the ground.

 

Overall, your biggest worry is oil pressure. In very cold weather, the oil pressure is high because the fluids are thick. If you run at high RPM's with cold oil, you risk an oil pressure so high that it could potentially blow out the seal on top of your oil filter. As long as you are getting oil to all moving parts of the engine, at a normal oil pressure, your good to go.

 

The diesels take longer to warm up because diesel trucks have a much larger cooling system. They are designed to tow and work hard, when they aren't, you still have a large cooling system meant to take a lot of heat. I don't suggest bagging on a cold diesel, and only because the compression is so high. When it gets to very cold temperatures, diesels will knock and smoke like crazy, making all kinds of noise. When the engine is doing this it is not in balance and running smooth. If you demanded a lot of power suddenly, you do risk the potential of breaking something.

 

My experience comes from running big rigs, heavy equipment and locomotives in weather down to -55 degrees celcius. I was born and raised in the prairies of Canada where -30 celcius is the norm for 4 months of the year. Back when I was a long haul trucker I used to take loads to Alaska every now and then. The coldest trip I ever remember was -59 degrees celcius.

Posted

I wait 'till the oil pressure gauge is in the normal warm range of ~25-40 psi before putting any real load on the motor. This happens several miles after the 210 dummy indicates the motor is warm. My 'Vette had an oil temp readout on the DIC, and when pressure dropped to normal warm range,oil temp read ~160 degrees (on the rise). This usually took 5 to 8 miles of driving from cold start.

Posted

When I bought my truck I specifically looked for an all aluminum engine, the LC9 code I think it is?

 

My 2010 had the iron block with aluminum heads. I wanted out of that truck because I could see potential head gasket problems. Two different types of metal expanding and contracting at different rates is a disaster for head gaskets. My 2011 has an all aluminum in it, and I can tell it heats up a LOT faster than my 2010 did. 5 minutes down the road it's at full operating temperature, even in chilly weather.

Posted

The iron block/aluminum head combo has been around for ages. There is no issue as modern gaskets have multiple layers.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 528 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...