Jump to content

2014 Toppers, Caps, Campers


Recommended Posts

Posted

FYI...I have a top of the line Leer 100XQ for sale in the classified section if anyone is interested let me know. Buying a different brand truck so need to sell

 

It's the same model as the white one in the previous post pictures

  • Replies 307
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

 

Which brand and model is this? What's the approx. cost? Thanks

Hard to say for sure but might be a Snugtop. Some of their's have that lip along the bottom edge. I think it depends on the truck, their Rebel model as it on some trucks but not all. Looks like that Sierra shell also doesn't have side windows. I think any shell can be ordered that way if that's what you are looking for.

Posted

Softopper. Yu can get a mesh window to replace the plastic in back. Also comes with a cover to protect it when rolled up.

 

4c090ba3a9434cff4cb3b2e28fa80267.jpg

a4475e37e7989ed5c9f06160ce9e2725.jpg

1da2c10d2d9958793a1fcf357be0d10f.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

post-164017-147999637691_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638185_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638544_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999637691_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638185_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638544_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999637691_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638185_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638544_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999637691_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638185_thumb.jpg

post-164017-147999638544_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

ARE Z series. Screen side windows and drop down front slider for ease of cleaning. Cap fits well and no leaks even in the car wash. I have 2 big labs and they love it, I put down a rubber floor mat and 2 big dog beds and they love it. Now wet dirty dogs can make a mess and I don't even care. They have never seen the inside of my cab and won't unless I am stuck in a traffic jam and it's 20 below. There is nothing better than a pickup with a cap, and if needed I have a pulley system to pop it off in minutes with 4 clamps. I had an Excursion for 13 years and it smelled like a wet dog and hair everywhere.

post-157863-0-02211100-1481672827_thumb.jpg

post-157863-0-02211100-1481672827_thumb.jpg

post-157863-0-02211100-1481672827_thumb.jpg

post-157863-0-02211100-1481672827_thumb.jpg

Posted

I had to take out my Z-Series Topper the other day and noticed that on the four corners the topper has caused some damage to the plastic cover on the tail gate and on the paint next behind the cab. Anybody on here has had a chance to take there topper off with any damage done to the there new truck?

Posted

763d6ee664b56dc80290443df73c01a3.jpg5b8f761cd53fa17983bd096e7baf326a.jpg

Got an ARE Z series topper installed today. Keyless entry on the rear glass tilt down slider up front and dual LED rope lights with prop switch. Think I'll like it. I know it will come in handy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just purchased the LED rope light. Do you know what wire was used to connect these wires to on the your truck?

Posted

I had to take out my Z-Series Topper the other day and noticed that on the four corners the topper has caused some damage to the plastic cover on the tail gate and on the paint next behind the cab. Anybody on here has had a chance to take there topper off with any damage done to the there new truck?

I've had Leer, Snugtop, and ARE campers on various trucks and they all rub someplace. There are too many variables in placement and variances from truck to truck for them not to rub a few places. To fit like consumers want them to fit (so they look factory and sleek as opposed to what they looked like 20 years ago) they are close to the truck surfaces unfortunately.

 

I usually mount them, then look to see if they are close anywhere, then raise it up and put wood blocks under it to get it up away from truck and sand any rubbing fiberglass areas from backside slightly so they stop rubbing the paint or plastic trim. The plastic trim being rubbed doesn't bother me personally.

Posted

I just purchased the LED rope light. Do you know what wire was used to connect these wires to on the your truck?

Not a clue. The dealer I got the topper from did the install.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I just purchased the LED rope light. Do you know what wire was used to connect these wires to on the your truck?

I wired mine into the factory bed lights, that way they come on with the switch inside the truck and will also also automatically go off if you forget to turn them off.

Posted

I wired mine into the factory bed lights, that way they come on with the switch inside the truck and will also also automatically go off if you forget to turn them off.

Thanks magstar67 I think this is what I'll end up doing.

Posted

I've had Leer, Snugtop, and ARE campers on various trucks and they all rub someplace. There are too many variables in placement and variances from truck to truck for them not to rub a few places. To fit like consumers want them to fit (so they look factory and sleek as opposed to what they looked like 20 years ago) they are close to the truck surfaces unfortunately.

 

I usually mount them, then look to see if they are close anywhere, then raise it up and put wood blocks under it to get it up away from truck and sand any rubbing fiberglass areas from backside slightly so they stop rubbing the paint or plastic trim. The plastic trim being rubbed doesn't bother me personally.

magstart67,

 

You are correct this was exactly what my topper dealer told me also. I'd hate to say this but if your a topper dealer and you already have experience and understand these variables why don't you go beyond your comfort zone and add the needed shims / spacers to prevent these types of damages. This is my first truck with a topper and if I knew yes it could have been prevented. Just wanted to vent and see what some peoples thoughts on this subject would be as we are spending $2500 on these toppers and having it go onto a $50K brand new truck there should be no damage put upon them especially the paint as it will rust.

Posted

magstart67,

 

You are correct this was exactly what my topper dealer told me also. I'd hate to say this but if your a topper dealer and you already have experience and understand these variables why don't you go beyond your comfort zone and add the needed shims / spacers to prevent these types of damages. This is my first truck with a topper and if I knew yes it could have been prevented. Just wanted to vent and see what some peoples thoughts on this subject would be as we are spending $2500 on these toppers and having it go onto a $50K brand new truck there should be no damage put upon them especially the paint as it will rust.

I agree completely! The fit and finish on them is pretty bad for that $2500 price too.

Posted
I have a question, actually I have a few but I'll get to the rest later. I need to wire mine up and I haven't pulled my tail lights yet to see if I can just tap off of the driver side tail light, is it still a two wire to the stop light (in the tail light)?


I know that sounds silly to ask but this being my first brand new ever truck I'm not sure if its LED and if I'll need a logic box.


I have the bed lighting so I'll tap the dome light off of that.

Posted

Thanks magstar67 I think this is what I'll end up doing.

I have the factory bed rail lights and I don't think I would like them wired to that. Think of it this way; you get home, get out of the truck, open the rear topper glass and then figure out you need the light. So now you have to go back in the truck turn the light on get out what you wanted to from the back, go back inside of the truck to turn the lights off. Sounds like no fun. I have the rear glass switch so when I open it it automatically turns them on and then off when I close it. I can also bypass the switch in situations I don't want the light on. Or if I have the glass shut but want the lights on. To me it's the best way to do it. But to each there own. And if you already have a light on the topper you can just get your juice from there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have the factory bed rail lights and I don't think I would like them wired to that. Think of it this way; you get home, get out of the truck, open the rear topper glass and then figure out you need the light. So now you have to go back in the truck turn the light on get out what you wanted to from the back, go back inside of the truck to turn the lights off. Sounds like no fun. I have the rear glass switch so when I open it it automatically turns them on and then off when I close it. I can also bypass the switch in situations I don't want the light on. Or if I have the glass shut but want the lights on. To me it's the best way to do it. But to each there own. And if you already have a light on the topper you can just get your juice from there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapata

Jimmyjam,

 

Very good point on this also. If I were to go this route can you take a picture or indicate to me what wire you tapped into in order to get a constant 12V. The topper dealer tapped into a wire harness that was located behind the spare tire and this is to the brake lights so the topper brake lights work. If you can tell the color or picture this wire is so the LED strip light works that would be great.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 391 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...