Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

pdv127 Enthusiast

pdv127

Posted
Posted

Looks great!! How's the ride with the 305s?

Thanks bro. Your truck is definitely on point. I'll look this other cat up

I'm guessing he's talking about my truck. I have the white Sierra with 305/55s with +14 offset on a 2.5" rough country level. I barely rub at all, it's only at full lock in reverse that it rubs slightly on the sway bar, and it only does it sometimes. It still rides good too, the only thing with the 305s is they are a bit noisy and they are a gas guzzler but Ive been used to it. For my next set of tires I'll stay with the 305s instead of jumping down to the 295s if that helps yall any

8918a064020d4e24e5c529045c41c4e9.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

chewy22 Enthusiast

chewy22

Posted
Posted

For everyone that has a level and bigger tires, what mpg are you getting on the highway? I assume most people on here are not too worried about their gas milage given that we are putting big off road tires on our trucks. I installed a 2.5'' level with 305/55R20 Nitto trail grapplers (33.39x12.60x20 from Nittos website) I also removed the bottom plastic air dam piece or whatever the correct term is, could that play a part in decreasing my fuel economy?

Previously coming from driving a 2008 NNBS sierra with 6'' lift and 35'' tires and the small 4.8l engine with a Black Bear tune i was getting right at 15mpg cruising at 70 and that makes me think my new 2014 should be getting a little better mpg that what i am actually getting right now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your speedo and odometer are off approximately 5.2% with that tall of a tire which throws off the DIC mileage calculator. Hand calc your mileage, DIC mileage x 5.2% divided by gallons used. Or get a hypertech speedo adjuster that updates your computer (speedo/odom) for the new tire size. It is super easy to do. Your tire width/tread and wheel size are all killers on mileage too. 20 rims are heavy. Once I drive my truck more ill post up mileage, I have 275/70 (33.4x11) 18s, and used a hypertech to correct speedo.

  • Like 1
pdv127 Enthusiast

pdv127

Posted
Posted

Your speedo and odometer are off approximately 5.2% with that tall of a tire which throws off the DIC mileage calculator. Hand calc your mileage, DIC mileage x 5.2% divided by gallons used. Or get a hypertech speedo adjuster that updates your computer (speedo/odom) for the new tire size. It is super easy to do. Your tire width/tread and wheel size are all killers on mileage too. 20 rims are heavy. Once I drive my truck more ill post up mileage, I have 275/70 (33.4x11) 18s, and used a hypertech to correct speedo.

Damn dude I'm already taking Calculus 3, I'm sick of math and seeing numbers [emoji23] haha but thanks that helps out. I'm looking into getting another BlackBear tune like my old truck and will just correct the speedo then

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sicmab Enthusiast

Sicmab

Posted
Posted

I'm guessing he's talking about my truck. I have the white Sierra with 305/55s with +14 offset on a 2.5" rough country level. I barely rub at all, it's only at full lock in reverse that it rubs slightly on the sway bar, and it only does it sometimes. It still rides good too, the only thing with the 305s is they are a bit noisy and they are a gas guzzler but Ive been used to it. For my next set of tires I'll stay with the 305s instead of jumping down to the 295s if that helps yall any

8918a064020d4e24e5c529045c41c4e9.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks bro. That's what I needed to hear. 295's it is.

Sicmab Enthusiast

Sicmab

Posted
Posted

I had mine installed at a shop. They use a ton of grease on the .5 spacer on top...I know this because I went to look inside and my hand was covered in a thick black grease (truck is only 2 weeks old) as far as the popping have you re-torqued the level kit? I drove mine for 300 miles and has the same thing and once they went over the level kit and tighten everything up it went away. I have 600 miles on my lift with no noise. I'll measure tonight but before the new tires i was at 39 inch up front and in rear to to the center wheel well.

I am at no means a mechanic too. So wtf do I know... just stating my experience.

 

Filtered

He's right about your truck. It does appear to be more "leveled" when compared to others. You didn't install any rear blocks, right?

cccritch Enthusiast

cccritch

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Chevy 1500 Silverado on order and I have been back and forth on tire size. I have been through this thread and I really like everyone's setup. However this is what I have been considering to do on my truck. I know for sure that I am going to go with the Rough Country 2.5" Lift/Leveling kit. I have also decided on the size and model of wheel that I want. I am going to go with the XD Misfit 18" X 9". That wheel has a 0mm offset with a 5" backspace. Those are the knowns now to the unknown. I am having a hard time deciding on tire size. I am like everyone else. I would like the largest possible tire with minimal to no rubbing without trimming. I am open to trimming the inner wheel well that is made out of carpet but I do not want to alter any sheet metal. I would like to try a Toyo Open Country M/T in a 285/70R18 (34" X 11.5"). I don't believe that anyone has tried a tire that size. Let me know what you think.

AZGMCZ71Leveled Enthusiast

AZGMCZ71Leveled

Posted
Posted

Yes no rear blocks, and it sits level. 295s have no rub even at full lock. MT'S are a little noisy so expect that but the look is killer! So far I have lost a good 3 mpgs with the MT tires. My problem was I wanted Toyo ATII and and they are back ordered on the 295s. 55c575ca282b9f22f92e2380e0aef03c.jpg

AZGMCZ71Leveled Enthusiast

AZGMCZ71Leveled

Posted
Posted

Yes no rear blocks, and it sits level. 295s have no rub even at full lock. MT'S are a little noisy so expect that but the look is killer! So far I have lost a good 3 mpgs with the MT tires. My problem was I wanted Toyo ATII and and they are back ordered on the 295s. 55c575ca282b9f22f92e2380e0aef03c.jpg

AZGMCZ71Leveled Enthusiast

AZGMCZ71Leveled

Posted
Posted

Just measured the front and rear. Front sits 39 and 1/2 back is just under 40 inches. After driving a good 600 mile the truck settle down some.

 

Rear 650ff5e4586f9472934d60ce6c292083.jpg

 

Rearb495ee680697b1a46faef54abb9921bb.jpg

 

Frontd55de46295df3058a3abba00b51e3ca6.jpg

chewy22 Enthusiast

chewy22

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 2015 Chevy 1500 Silverado on order and I have been back and forth on tire size. I have been through this thread and I really like everyone's setup. However this is what I have been considering to do on my truck. I know for sure that I am going to go with the Rough Country 2.5" Lift/Leveling kit. I have also decided on the size and model of wheel that I want. I am going to go with the XD Misfit 18" X 9". That wheel has a 0mm offset with a 5" backspace. Those are the knowns now to the unknown. I am having a hard time deciding on tire size. I am like everyone else. I would like the largest possible tire with minimal to no rubbing without trimming. I am open to trimming the inner wheel well that is made out of carpet but I do not want to alter any sheet metal. I would like to try a Toyo Open Country M/T in a 285/70R18 (34" X 11.5"). I don't believe that anyone has tried a tire that size. Let me know what you think.

 

Chevy 1500 - I have the same wheel size and offset/backspacing w/ 275/70R18 (specs 33.4 x 11) duratracs, 2.25 readylift leveling kit front (w/ 1 inch taller blocks in the back). Even though the specs on the tires are 33.4 as it sits with the pressure I'm running they have a ride height of 32.5 (I've confirmed this both with running a chalk line and line of sight measurement). I used that measurement (32.5) in the hypertech speedo calibrator and my speedometer is spot on with a GPS at all speeds. So that gives you a base line. At full lock my tires did touch the back lower corner of the wheel well liner. I pulled the liner back using a screw into the cab mount. Because I run a lot of gravel roads I need mud flaps. I put duraflaps on, both front and rears. The flaps are about a 1/4 to 1/3 inch thick. I created a channel in the flaps for the black plastic things that are on the rear outer edge of the wheel wells so they sight as flush as possible. With just that small thickness of the flaps there was rubbing when turning on a slight incline/decline. A lot of modification to the front flaps to get rid of the rub for normal driving. I still get a small amount of rubbing when the tires are stuffed and turned, all on the flap. So long story short, there is not much clearance. Maybe the 1/4" height difference in the leveling kits will make a big enough difference for a 34x11.5 tire but it will be damn close and I bet you'll have rubbing issues with a 0 offset wheel.

Edited by chewy22
T-Town-Z Enthusiast

T-Town-Z

Posted
Posted

 

 

I have a 2015 Chevy 1500 Silverado on order and I have been back and forth on tire size. I have been through this thread and I really like everyone's setup. However this is what I have been considering to do on my truck. I know for sure that I am going to go with the Rough Country 2.5" Lift/Leveling kit. I have also decided on the size and model of wheel that I want. I am going to go with the XD Misfit 18" X 9". That wheel has a 0mm offset with a 5" backspace. Those are the knowns now to the unknown. I am having a hard time deciding on tire size. I am like everyone else. I would like the largest possible tire with minimal to no rubbing without trimming. I am open to trimming the inner wheel well that is made out of carpet but I do not want to alter any sheet metal. I would like to try a Toyo Open Country M/T in a 285/70R18 (34" X 11.5"). I don't believe that anyone has tried a tire that size. Let me know what you think.

I just installed Bridgestone Dueler A/T's in LT275-65-20 on my truck. On paper they call them out to be 34.1" tall by 11" in width. These are on stock 20" rims and fit with a 2" lift, with just minor rubbing of the wheelwell liner. I zip-tied the liner back, in the area where it rubbed, and have no other problems with that size combo.
  • Like 1
chewy22 Enthusiast

chewy22

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

I just installed Bridgestone Dueler A/T's in LT275-65-20 on my truck. On paper they call them out to be 34.1" tall by 11" in width. These are on stock 20" rims and fit with a 2" lift, with just minor rubbing of the wheelwell liner. I zip-tied the liner back, in the area where it rubbed, and have no other problems with that size combo.

 

That is a great comparison and perspective T-Town. The problem is the wheel offset 0 vs the stock +24. The outer corner of the tire, when turned, is what hits my mud flap. I don't doubt 34s on a stock offset wheels clear all day long. If I had the same tire on my stock rims it would not come close to hitting. Have to really think about the offset when looking at aftermarket wheels.

Edited by chewy22
cccritch Enthusiast

cccritch

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys for the great feedback. I really would like to try the 285/70R18 but I will probably wuss out and go with the 285/65R18. I really like the looks of the XD Misfit but they only make the 18x9 in the 0mm offset. Wish XD had a few more options in the offset. However to go with the 285/65R18 I will have to run the Nitto Trail Grappler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...