Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For those of you that have already installed a leveling kit...

 

Which did you go with and why?

 

Do the new aluminum suspension parts impact the install?

 

I hope to get one on my truck in the next couple weeks but want some insights first.

  • Like 4
Posted

MotoMedic should be chiming in on this one soon.

 

I would also like to know how is the ride after the kit is installed? Does it affect the ride at all?

 

MotoMedic, do you have any before and after pics from the side to see how the kit corrects the stance?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I put a traxda(truxxx) lift/levelling kit on my truck. My truck came up 2.5" in the front and 1.25" in the back. Then, after my new tires (275's)... the truck came up another 1.25".

The ride is similar, but a little rougher as the Toyo tires I Installed are a 10 ply, much harder than the factory tire.

You can see pictures of the process at this thread...

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152728-z71-2014-canadian-style/

 

Edited by Prdtrgttr
Posted

For those of you that have already installed a leveling kit... Which did you go with and why? Do the new aluminum suspension parts impact the install? I hope to get one on my truck in the next couple weeks but want some insights first.

 

I went with Rough Country because (back on July 1st) they were the company only advertising leveling kits for the new K2's. Later I discovered that the standard K2 suspension is the same as the GMT-900, so any previous kits will work (see attached pic). However, if you have the All-Terrain package, you did get the new aluminum parts, so I have no idea if you need a special/different kit to level..? Anyone level an AT yet..?

For the DIY members out there, the install is pretty straightforward, but you will need a second set of hands to help you hold things. I did mine solo and it was a pain!

 

MotoMedic should be chiming in on this one soon.

 

I would also like to know how is the ride after the kit is installed? Does it affect the ride at all?

 

MotoMedic, do you have any before and after pics from the side to see how the kit corrects the stance?

 

haha! I have too much free time at work!

 

I can't comment on the ride quality because after installing my level, I immediately changed to 33" all-terrain tires and am running them at higher pressures. On my old GMT-900, I had the same setup (20" wheels w/ 33" Coopers) running the standard 32-33 psi and my aggressive driving quickly wore out the outer shoulders. This time around I'm running 37-38 psi to decrease tire flex. It does make the ride a bit rougher, but it's still better than my GMT-900 with the same rims/tires.

 

I was in a hurry to install my level & tires right after I bought the truck so I never took any before pics. I did take measurements: front/rear difference in ride height was roughly 3.5" before and is now about 1.25".

Also, I believe I saw someone mention in a different topic that the 2WD & 4WD K2's are the same height upfront... this is false! I measured a few trucks on my dealer's lot before buying and the 4WD's were consistently around 0.5-0.75" higher than the 2WD's (my guess is they use stiffer springs to handle the added weight of transfer case & front drive..?).

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

Posted

Thanks man. Just now noticed that you have the 2wd like me and mentioned that there is definitely a height difference between the 2wd and 2wd. I'm glad that you didn't have any clearance issues with the 33's. I had Trail Grapplers on my 2011 4wd but think I'm going to go with either MT Baja ATZ's or Terra Grapplers in 33".

 

FYI: My 33" tires are 275mm wide (275/60r20). If you go with a wider 33" tire, you may or may not have clearance issues.

  • Like 1
Posted

FYI: My 33" tires are 275mm wide (275/60r20). If you go with a wider 33" tire, you may or may not have clearance issues.

I went with 305/55/20's last time. May not be able to do that this time.

Posted

I finally got my 2014 last weekend and quickly realized that it needs a leveling kit. The center of the back wheel well measures 39 1/4" and the front is around 37". I'd like to find a leveling kit that doesn't mess with the back at all, anyone have any recommendations?

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

Posted

 

I went with Rough Country because (back on July 1st) they were the company only advertising leveling kits for the new K2's. Later I discovered that the standard K2 suspension is the same as the GMT-900, so any previous kits will work (see attached pic). However, if you have the All-Terrain package, you did get the new aluminum parts, so I have no idea if you need a special/different kit to level..? Anyone level an AT yet..?

For the DIY members out there, the install is pretty straightforward, but you will need a second set of hands to help you hold things. I did mine solo and it was a pain!

 

MotoMedic should be chiming in on this one soon.

 

I would also like to know how is the ride after the kit is installed? Does it affect the ride at all?

 

MotoMedic, do you have any before and after pics from the side to see how the kit corrects the stance?

 

haha! I have too much free time at work!

 

I can't comment on the ride quality because after installing my level, I immediately changed to 33" all-terrain tires and am running them at higher pressures. On my old GMT-900, I had the same setup (20" wheels w/ 33" Coopers) running the standard 32-33 psi and my aggressive driving quickly wore out the outer shoulders. This time around I'm running 37-38 psi to decrease tire flex. It does make the ride a bit rougher, but it's still better than my GMT-900 with the same rims/tires.

 

I was in a hurry to install my level & tires right after I bought the truck so I never took any before pics. I did take measurements: front/rear difference in ride height was roughly 3.5" before and is now about 1.25".

 

So you did the rough country front only 2" kit? Does it require a realignment at all?

Posted

The rough country kit will definitely require an alignment based on experience with my 08'. I found a local shop that will install with parts for $140 so I'm going to save my weekend and get it when the parts come.

Posted

If the suspension is roughly the same as the 900s is it fair to say we could see the same ball joint issues on these too? Just curious, as I have replaced the UCAs in 2 900s prior to 55,000 miles with a mere 2 inch leveling kit.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

I would go with a ranch quick lift strut system if its the same as the older models. It did the job very well on my truck. I hope they come out with one for the z71 model.

  • Like 1
Posted

Leveling kits for GM trucks only modify the front suspension. Any kit that modifies the rear will be called a lift or drop kit.

Any leveling kit requires a front end alignment. Without it you'll prematurely wear out the inside of your tires.

Some will probably see the same ball joint issues on the new K2's but that's a chance I'll happily take versus driving a nose dive truck.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Not sure I've seen this kit previously mentioned here.

 

http://www.readylift.com/news/cat/racing-news/post/2014-GM-1500-ReadyLIFT-Products/

 

2014 GM 1500 ReadyLIFT Products Available Now and In Stock:

CHEVROLET/GMC - 1500 - LEVELING KITS

2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 1.0"-1.5" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3090
2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 1.5" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3080
2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 2.25" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3085


CHEVROLET/GMC - 1500 - OEM STYLE BLOCK KITS

2007-2014 2.25" TALL BLOCK 1.0" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3002
2007-2014 3" TALL BLOCK 1.75" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3003

Edited by Firetiger(MN)
Posted

I had a 2" put on mine. The shop I got the wheels and tires from installed it for 150. I can't remember the brand but it was the metal spacers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...