Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For those of you that have already installed a leveling kit...

 

Which did you go with and why?

 

Do the new aluminum suspension parts impact the install?

 

I hope to get one on my truck in the next couple weeks but want some insights first.

  • Like 4
Posted

MotoMedic should be chiming in on this one soon.

 

I would also like to know how is the ride after the kit is installed? Does it affect the ride at all?

 

MotoMedic, do you have any before and after pics from the side to see how the kit corrects the stance?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I put a traxda(truxxx) lift/levelling kit on my truck. My truck came up 2.5" in the front and 1.25" in the back. Then, after my new tires (275's)... the truck came up another 1.25".

The ride is similar, but a little rougher as the Toyo tires I Installed are a 10 ply, much harder than the factory tire.

You can see pictures of the process at this thread...

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152728-z71-2014-canadian-style/

 

Edited by Prdtrgttr
Posted

For those of you that have already installed a leveling kit... Which did you go with and why? Do the new aluminum suspension parts impact the install? I hope to get one on my truck in the next couple weeks but want some insights first.

 

I went with Rough Country because (back on July 1st) they were the company only advertising leveling kits for the new K2's. Later I discovered that the standard K2 suspension is the same as the GMT-900, so any previous kits will work (see attached pic). However, if you have the All-Terrain package, you did get the new aluminum parts, so I have no idea if you need a special/different kit to level..? Anyone level an AT yet..?

For the DIY members out there, the install is pretty straightforward, but you will need a second set of hands to help you hold things. I did mine solo and it was a pain!

 

MotoMedic should be chiming in on this one soon.

 

I would also like to know how is the ride after the kit is installed? Does it affect the ride at all?

 

MotoMedic, do you have any before and after pics from the side to see how the kit corrects the stance?

 

haha! I have too much free time at work!

 

I can't comment on the ride quality because after installing my level, I immediately changed to 33" all-terrain tires and am running them at higher pressures. On my old GMT-900, I had the same setup (20" wheels w/ 33" Coopers) running the standard 32-33 psi and my aggressive driving quickly wore out the outer shoulders. This time around I'm running 37-38 psi to decrease tire flex. It does make the ride a bit rougher, but it's still better than my GMT-900 with the same rims/tires.

 

I was in a hurry to install my level & tires right after I bought the truck so I never took any before pics. I did take measurements: front/rear difference in ride height was roughly 3.5" before and is now about 1.25".

Also, I believe I saw someone mention in a different topic that the 2WD & 4WD K2's are the same height upfront... this is false! I measured a few trucks on my dealer's lot before buying and the 4WD's were consistently around 0.5-0.75" higher than the 2WD's (my guess is they use stiffer springs to handle the added weight of transfer case & front drive..?).

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-74173500-1376497017_thumb.jpg

Posted

Thanks man. Just now noticed that you have the 2wd like me and mentioned that there is definitely a height difference between the 2wd and 2wd. I'm glad that you didn't have any clearance issues with the 33's. I had Trail Grapplers on my 2011 4wd but think I'm going to go with either MT Baja ATZ's or Terra Grapplers in 33".

 

FYI: My 33" tires are 275mm wide (275/60r20). If you go with a wider 33" tire, you may or may not have clearance issues.

  • Like 1
Posted

FYI: My 33" tires are 275mm wide (275/60r20). If you go with a wider 33" tire, you may or may not have clearance issues.

I went with 305/55/20's last time. May not be able to do that this time.

Posted

I finally got my 2014 last weekend and quickly realized that it needs a leveling kit. The center of the back wheel well measures 39 1/4" and the front is around 37". I'd like to find a leveling kit that doesn't mess with the back at all, anyone have any recommendations?

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

post-123718-0-76145000-1376522298_thumb.jpg

Posted

 

I went with Rough Country because (back on July 1st) they were the company only advertising leveling kits for the new K2's. Later I discovered that the standard K2 suspension is the same as the GMT-900, so any previous kits will work (see attached pic). However, if you have the All-Terrain package, you did get the new aluminum parts, so I have no idea if you need a special/different kit to level..? Anyone level an AT yet..?

For the DIY members out there, the install is pretty straightforward, but you will need a second set of hands to help you hold things. I did mine solo and it was a pain!

 

MotoMedic should be chiming in on this one soon.

 

I would also like to know how is the ride after the kit is installed? Does it affect the ride at all?

 

MotoMedic, do you have any before and after pics from the side to see how the kit corrects the stance?

 

haha! I have too much free time at work!

 

I can't comment on the ride quality because after installing my level, I immediately changed to 33" all-terrain tires and am running them at higher pressures. On my old GMT-900, I had the same setup (20" wheels w/ 33" Coopers) running the standard 32-33 psi and my aggressive driving quickly wore out the outer shoulders. This time around I'm running 37-38 psi to decrease tire flex. It does make the ride a bit rougher, but it's still better than my GMT-900 with the same rims/tires.

 

I was in a hurry to install my level & tires right after I bought the truck so I never took any before pics. I did take measurements: front/rear difference in ride height was roughly 3.5" before and is now about 1.25".

 

So you did the rough country front only 2" kit? Does it require a realignment at all?

Posted

The rough country kit will definitely require an alignment based on experience with my 08'. I found a local shop that will install with parts for $140 so I'm going to save my weekend and get it when the parts come.

Posted

If the suspension is roughly the same as the 900s is it fair to say we could see the same ball joint issues on these too? Just curious, as I have replaced the UCAs in 2 900s prior to 55,000 miles with a mere 2 inch leveling kit.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

I would go with a ranch quick lift strut system if its the same as the older models. It did the job very well on my truck. I hope they come out with one for the z71 model.

  • Like 1
Posted

Leveling kits for GM trucks only modify the front suspension. Any kit that modifies the rear will be called a lift or drop kit.

Any leveling kit requires a front end alignment. Without it you'll prematurely wear out the inside of your tires.

Some will probably see the same ball joint issues on the new K2's but that's a chance I'll happily take versus driving a nose dive truck.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Not sure I've seen this kit previously mentioned here.

 

http://www.readylift.com/news/cat/racing-news/post/2014-GM-1500-ReadyLIFT-Products/

 

2014 GM 1500 ReadyLIFT Products Available Now and In Stock:

CHEVROLET/GMC - 1500 - LEVELING KITS

2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 1.0"-1.5" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3090
2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 1.5" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3080
2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 2.25" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3085


CHEVROLET/GMC - 1500 - OEM STYLE BLOCK KITS

2007-2014 2.25" TALL BLOCK 1.0" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3002
2007-2014 3" TALL BLOCK 1.75" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3003

Edited by Firetiger(MN)
Posted

I had a 2" put on mine. The shop I got the wheels and tires from installed it for 150. I can't remember the brand but it was the metal spacers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
    • You got a 4 legged walker or a 4 wheel rollater?
    • Does lowering the truck change its towing capacity?  I wouldn't mind lowering mine, but I loan it out a few times during the summer for my daughter to pull her travel trailer (5,000lbs).
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...