Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just don't know how I would wire it, easily.

 

Easiest option is to drill a hole in the roof and then seal the area around the wire with silicone or your choice of sealant.

Posted

Well everyone my wife just said she will get me a lightbar for my birthday. Going to get a roof mount. Now which brand light bar do you suggest besides rigid because they are Lil too pricey.

Posted

Well everyone my wife just said she will get me a lightbar for my birthday. Going to get a roof mount. Now which brand light bar do you suggest besides rigid because they are Lil too pricey.

harborLED. They have some great bars and great prices. You can get a curved 55W w/ 3D lenses and Cree LEDs for $218 + shipping. I think it's rated at like 33,000 lumens.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

harborLED. They have some great bars and great prices. You can get a curved 55W w/ 3D lenses and Cree LEDs for $218 + shipping. I think it's rated at like 33,000 lumens.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Micky are they water proof like rigid

 

 

My Current Setup,2014 Silverado 2LT Z71,RCX 2.5 Level Kit,NittoTerra 33x12.50R20Lt's,Fuel - Octane D509 20x9 -12 Offset,All Chrome Plasti-Diped

My Up Coming Mod's,McGhauphy's 7"-9" Economy Lift Kit,Federal Couragia M/T's 35x12.50R20Lt's,OEM Tow Mirror's,Bushwaker OE Fender Flairs,Gtr Lighting Led Conversion Kit's 2,200 Lumen(High,Low,Fog),Black Spyder Venom Bull Bar,Iron Cross HD Step's.

Posted (edited)

Micky are they water proof like rigid

 

 

My Current Setup,2014 Silverado 2LT Z71,RCX 2.5 Level Kit,NittoTerra 33x12.50R20Lt's,Fuel - Octane D509 20x9 -12 Offset,All Chrome Plasti-Diped

My Up Coming Mod's,McGhauphy's 7"-9" Economy Lift Kit,Federal Couragia M/T's 35x12.50R20Lt's,OEM Tow Mirror's,Bushwaker OE Fender Flairs,Gtr Lighting Led Conversion Kit's 2,200 Lumen(High,Low,Fog),Black Spyder Venom Bull Bar,Iron Cross HD Step's.

Yes. You can even get them with 4D lenses and 5W Osram LEDs

The bars are rated at around 140 lumens per watt and every 10" of Bae length is 100 watts. So

10" = 100W bar

20" = 200W

Etc

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Mike1220
Posted

IMG_15033.JPG

 

 

 

I think I'm going to give these a shot, so I'll let you know how it goes. I already have a set of LED pods/harness floating around the work bench , so worst case I'll just return the brackets. If they install clean and I'm dealing with a reflection I'll just wrap my hood flat black, can't be that expensive and have been thinking about it anyway. Thanks for everyone's input, really a plethora of knowledge on this sight!

did you do it yet? how'd it work out? pics?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

did you do it yet? how'd it work out? pics?

 

I just got the T-rex bracket (P/N 639212) in this morning. I held them up to the hood hinges and noted the following (pics tomorrow)

 

1) The hole in the closest to windhshield lines up perfectly w/ T-Rex Bracket

2) The second hole used on the 1500's (at least mine) doesn't match up w/ T-Rex

3) There is a 3rd unused hole, fartherst from the windshield that matches up (Maybe 25/3500's skip the middle hole, heavier hood? ) theres no threading so I'll have to figure a fastener

4) No clearance /opening issues from what I can tell

**I will have to shim the T-Rex bracket where it meets the hood/hinge to make them sit level but I don't think I'll have any major issues.

**** You could alternatively cut down the T/Rex bracket and then just shim/space front hole, but I like the idea/stability of my plan.

 

 

 

Pics as promised:

 

1) T- Rex Bracket (p/n6392121) : so if you want you can go and measure on your truck for reference.

unnamed1

2)This picture shows how the holes line up (was tough to hold the bracket and snap the picture) To clarify - the bracket matches with hole closest to the windshield and the farthest/unused hole. It's a really crappy photo/angle, but they match perfectly!

 

unnamed2

3) Hood Clearance: This was tight because it was sitting on top the existing screws/hinge, should gain some clearance when installed, not overly concerned. Brackets are super solid, don't see any bouncing happening.

 

unnamed3

 

4)Alternate Mounting : For those worried about shimming the hood hinge, you can actually mount it to flat portion ,inside of the hinge, and still maintain clearance. I'm sticking to the hinges to keep the lights the tucked into corners

unnamed5

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by TheTunaHunter
  • Like 2
Posted

I had custom headlights made with rigid diffused d2s in the high beams. 79e37d036faf9ca876c7e6830247ebba.jpg

how much those bad boys run ya?

Posted

Question, has anyone tried tinting (either spray or film) the lens of their light bar? I want something very light, just to take the shine/glare off of the bar so that it isn't so noticeable... I have seen where people have put a light coating of Rust-Oleum Tint Spray (or the VHB version of the same) on their headlights, tail lights, etc. with varied levels of success. Obviously, I don't want to block much of the light, but with the brightness of these bars these days, I don't see how blocking out a little bit (5% transmission loss maybe) could really be a big deal....

 

Installing a 32" Curved light bar behind my grille this weekend and would like to try to tint it before I install it!

 

Has anyone out there tried this?

Posted

Question, has anyone tried tinting (either spray or film) the lens of their light bar? I want something very light, just to take the shine/glare off of the bar so that it isn't so noticeable... I have seen where people have put a light coating of Rust-Oleum Tint Spray (or the VHB version of the same) on their headlights, tail lights, etc. with varied levels of success. Obviously, I don't want to block much of the light, but with the brightness of these bars these days, I don't see how blocking out a little bit (5% transmission loss maybe) could really be a big deal....

 

Installing a 32" Curved light bar behind my grille this weekend and would like to try to tint it before I install it!

 

Has anyone out there tried this?

 

 

Not many films come as light as 95% VLT (so only 5% loss as you said) nor will it do much unless its more of a frosted type of film. If you really want to take away the shine on the bar, you could go in and paint the chrome black. Have seen it done before and even with Matte black it doesn't ruin the output that much. I know it does but from what I've seen its nothing extreme. You could even go ahead and spray it a high gloss black. The black would hide it behind your grille but the high gloss should help maximize performance like the chrome does

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,944
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    flyclt
    Newest Member
    flyclt
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 592 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...