Jump to content

Halogen & LED Headlight Bulb Upgrades

Ezekiel2517

Recommended Posts

TenofMe Enthusiast

TenofMe

Posted
Posted

The BCM update to increase the voltage is only for Sierras. Sierras only have one bulb for both high and low beams. A "shutter" flips up and down adjusting the pattern for high and low beams.

  • Replies 832
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Razorback7 Enthusiast

Razorback7

Posted
Posted

My lights from XenonDepot shipped yesterday. I have had the GMC BCM update and while the lights are better, they still aren't very good. If these LED's are twice as bright (per the earlier reports), I'll call it good for $100. Plus they will match my Rigid fogs. I'll report my findings after I install.

TenofMe Enthusiast

TenofMe

Posted
Posted

My lights from XenonDepot shipped yesterday. I have had the GMC BCM update and while the lights are better, they still aren't very good. If these LED's are twice as bright (per the earlier reports), I'll call it good for $100. Plus they will match my Rigid fogs. I'll report my findings after I install.

Mine shipped too. Will be here tomorrow for my Labor Day truck projects:

 

1, Install Xenon Depot LED headlight and fog light bulbs

2. Install Pop-n-lock tailgate remote lock

3. Install clear film nose mask

4. Install sunroof visor

 

Wow, I'm going to be busy!

kkmitchell5 Enthusiast

kkmitchell5

Posted
Posted

You guys should like the xenon depot lights. I think the only way you wouldn't is that if you install them wrong or you are more of a "light snob" or if you came from a projector hid system before

Asells Enthusiast

Asells

Posted
Posted

Mine shipped also. I hear people say put them in at the 3&9 position. How do you adjust them to do that?

Razorback7 Enthusiast

Razorback7

Posted
Posted

I hope I'm not a light snob. I'll admit I'm spoiled by my BMW Adaptive LEDs that move, have adaptive high beam, etc. But that's another story :)

Nolasaintz Enthusiast

Nolasaintz

Posted
Posted

MIne shipped too!

 

Can't wait to get rid of that ugly yellow stock color!! And hopefully gain some output...

kkmitchell5 Enthusiast

kkmitchell5

Posted
Posted

Mine shipped also. I hear people say put them in at the 3&9 position. How do you adjust them to do that?

 

It isn't adjusting them. it is just how to install them. On the oem bulbs the there are tabs at 3 6 and 9 position and the bottom one is the fat one. one the xenon depot the bottom one is the smallest( if i remember correctly, or they are all the same size.) either way you just have to put the tabs from the xenon depot lights at 3 6 and 9 position as well. and once you twist to lock it in to the right the position of the entire light assembly will be in the 3 and 9 position

Plumber101010 Enthusiast

Plumber101010

Posted
Posted

I went with these from Amazon. It was a VERY tough choice. But all the reviews were universally five stars and perfect except one who gave it one star and just said it didn't fit.

 

Went back-and-forth between other more expensive name brands but ultimately chose these for one big main reason. I like the fact that there was three LED's giving a 360° light versus two. Ill update how they workout but I have very high hopes. I also like the fact that the fan is internal and runs off OEM harness and does not require a separate wire to be run to the battery to power it.

 

They are arriving day after tomorrow, Saturday and will be installed shortly thereafter and I will try to take some pics of them on at night. If not at a minimum, I will post a review.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WUG1A8I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

TenofMe Enthusiast

TenofMe

Posted
Posted

I went with these from Amazon. It was a VERY tough choice. But all the reviews were universally five stars and perfect except one who gave it one star and just said it didn't fit.

 

Went back-and-forth between other more expensive name brands but ultimately chose these for one big main reason. I like the fact that there was three LED's giving a 360° light versus two. Ill update how they workout but I have very high hopes. I also like the fact that the fan is internal and runs off OEM harness and does not require a separate wire to be run to the battery to power it.

 

They are arriving day after tomorrow, Saturday and will be installed shortly thereafter and I will try to take some pics of them on at night. If not at a minimum, I will post a review.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WUG1A8I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

Starnill LED Headlight Conversion Kit 40w per bulb, 3600 lumens each (mfr. rating)

 

I ordered some of these, right after you posted this. Mostly because I was so pissed that it was taking so long to get the ones from XenonDepot. The reviews did look good, and they were $30 cheaper. If they worked out, I'd just return the others to XD.

 

They arrived this morning, and I installed them right away. Here are my impressions.

 

1. Build quality. They are as good as anything you'll get out of China. Seem well built. IP66 rated ballast. Large LED's on 3 sides instead of 2.

 

2. Sizing. These are 9005 NOT 9012. Requires a very small notch to be cut to make them fit. took 10 seconds per light. No big deal.

 

3. Installation. OOPS! They are wired backwards. The + and - are reversed on the plug. They engage fine when you reverse the plug, but the clip doesn't latch. I used a piece of aluminum tape to hold them together temporarily. If I decide to keep them, I will cut / solder the connector for a permanent fix. All the wires and ballast tuck into the housing just fine. Just be sure to insert the ballast before you install the bulb, otherwise it won't fit.

 

3. Performance. It's still daylight, but MAN these things are bright! Color seems very white. I can't tell if it's a little blue or not. I'll have to wait until the sun goes down. It says 6000k on the bulb, but It probably more like 5500. They make the stock Voltic bulbs look like they have a yellow filter on them. The heatsink and ballast get HOT HOT HOT! I didn't put my temp gun on them, but i'd say 200+ degrees. Fans are LOUD. When they are both on with the engine off, it almost sounds like the primary cooling fan is on. That's not cool (pun intended). With the engine running on, you can't hear them at all, though. I'm a little worried about melting / heat damage.

 

I like how they "snap" on when you turn them on, like HID's. The cutoff line seems very sharp, too. I've attached a couple pics in the light. I'll get some more tonight.

 

I'll update this review after I've had them on for a few days. And if the XD lights ever arrive, I'll do a comparison.

 

Here are a couple pics:

 

DSC 0155 (Large)

DSC 0153 (Large)

DSC 0152 (Large)

DSC 0149 (Large)

Plumber101010 Enthusiast

Plumber101010

Posted
Posted

I am a little confused because I am no guru here. I'm getting ready to install them now and of course mine are 9005 so I didn't understand the reference between the 9012?

Plumber101010 Enthusiast

Plumber101010

Posted
Posted

Upon opening the box and reading through the manual here are some concerns I have immediately. The manual doesn't have a company name, address or phone number absolutely anywhere, anywhere. There is a warranty card and it just says fill in your name and number but hysterically, there's no place on the warranty card that shows a company name, address or phone number or what to do with this warranty card once you fill it out!

 

The boxing is top notch. Encased in foam and very well presented. The owners manual is top notch with photographs. This is not a cheap product for sure andd the packaging itself is very professional and was well thought out and very protective. Still, no information about this company whatsoever.

 

Manual shows that a power wire has to be run to the battery and as far as I can tell that is just simply incorrect and a misprint in the manual. The fan is powered by the OEM harness and no additional wiring is needed. I am assuming maybe these lights have been updated and the manual has not. There is not even an extra wire coming off of these anywhere to run such a wire.

Plumber101010 Enthusiast

Plumber101010

Posted
Posted

OK my pos and neg were reversed to but I had no problems just turning it around and pushing it in. Just the little lug nut that holds it together is useless. Some black tape to hold it together and I'm good. However, I have to tell you this, but you may have a bad fan. All my fans are whisper quiet thus far (9005) high beams

 

Maybe because I am actually a 9005 and you are a 9012 and trying to use the 9005?

Plumber101010 Enthusiast

Plumber101010

Posted
Posted

So I tried plugging the H11's in normally and it blew something. Now I have no power going to my low beams. Put the stock bulbs back in and still nothing.

 

Fuses are good so I'm assuming there is a relay that shutdown and I'm crossing my fingers that everything will come back into normal. Evidently the H 11's are reversed also and unlike the 9005 that when I plugged them in the correct way nothing bad happened. So I reversed the plug.

 

But plugging in the H 11's the right way did cause issues and a short somewhere. Be careful. just plug them in the opposite way from the get-go and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

I have already written the manufacture a letter letting them know they have a defect.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 423 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...