Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Couple of beers :)

the whole ip harness? not just the center console.

 

the ip harness is what theis one will plug into, i assume a large amount of the dash will need to come out including the deck to be able to swap it.

maybe it is just a couple of beer job.

Posted

The whole dash. Probably everything in as far as the heater case. With what to gain? Everything will work with a little wiring except full function of the usb ports. Changing the harness will not help that.

Posted

the whole ip harness? not just the center console.

 

the ip harness is what theis one will plug into, i assume a large amount of the dash will need to come out including the deck to be able to swap it.

maybe it is just a couple of beer job.

 

swapping a console and make it full functionnal except the 3 fronts usb ( only for charging) will take you about 3 hours total including the wiring mod

 

but for sure you don't have to swap the ip harness

only have to modify the wiring in the new console

Posted

 

swapping a console and make it full functionnal except the 3 fronts usb ( only for charging) will take you about 3 hours total including the wiring mod

 

but for sure you don't have to swap the ip harness

only have to modify the wiring in the new console

Can you send me a link to the wiring mod you are talking about?

Posted

 

swapping a console and make it full functionnal except the 3 fronts usb ( only for charging) will take you about 3 hours total including the wiring mod

 

but for sure you don't have to swap the ip harness

only have to modify the wiring in the new console

i kinda want all the USB's to functionproperly, but honestly its really not needed because even the 1 USB plug i have now i just use to charge and bluetooth for media.

Posted (edited)

Everyone wants all usb working but, to make them working properly, you need to change radio, hmi, à programmation but GM can't reprogram it. So too much costly for nothing. I'm thinking of removing mines and use the hole to put the seat warmer switch instead when I will install my heat pad in my seats

Edited by ravageur1972
Posted

I just wanted to let everyone know that I did the center console install last night and it worked as described in all 22 pages of this thread. To those who contributed, thanks for all of the information, it was very helpful.

 

Now I just need to get the second front 12v, the front 3 USB ports, and the console light powered. A project for another day for sure.

 

Thanks again!

Posted

Complete IP harness.

I have gone threw all the pages several times again. I still can not find the part number for the extra sub cable you used. Also what kind of price was it. Me splitting the usb didn't work so I'm going to run what you had. Finally where doe the use plug into the hmi at?

Posted

19303328. Plugs into the hmi module. You need to trim the connector to fit into the module. I think it is a green connector on the hmi.

Posted

Everyone wants all usb working but, to make them working properly, you need to change radio, hmi, à programmation but GM can't reprogram it. So too much costly for nothing. I'm thinking of removing mines and use the hole to put the seat warmer switch instead when I will install my heat pad in my seats

fair enough, keep me posted with that one you get. im going to put leather in mine wit summer with armrest mod and i may put a heated seat bench... its only like $50 for some of the cheaper ones off ebay.

  • Like 1
Posted

So how do you get the front 3 USB ports to work or at least charge.. Are you splicing them to them the original jumpseat harness or are you using a usb 2.0 splitter cable to make them work??

From what I understand the way that barn did it. You must order a new sub cable and plug it into your hmi. Then run a hot and ground to 6 pin connector. I just ordered mine so we will see how tough it is

Posted

From what I understand the way that barn did it. You must order a new sub cable and plug it into your hmi. Then run a hot and ground to 6 pin connector. I just ordered mine so we will see how tough it is

yes it is

 

i didn't buy another usb cable, because it will only feed the signal to let the usb charging , i took the second usb cable and i cut the end that didn't match the hmi and i had another usb at home so i weld it to my first one

 

you don't need to shield the cable as the oem one but it is better

 

usb will only charge and not read music but if someone install another radio than the oem and have more at least 2 usb , he can make all usb in console working,

i'm thinking of it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
    • Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet.   Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...