Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok so I have maybe an odd question related to this topic. I just purchased a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT with center console. I want to switch it to a jump seat though (yes I know.. why would I want to do this! but I have a big family and need that 6th seat sometimes). I see here thats its possible to have it wired from a jump seat to a center console minus the USB ports..... but how hard/easy would it be to configure the wiring going from a center console to a jump seat?

 

can you get all the hookups in the jumpseat to work?

 

Thanks for the help guys.

Posted

Should be pretty easy in reverse. What color is your interior? I may do a swap / purchase deal, if you're interested.

Posted

Ok so I have maybe an odd question related to this topic. I just purchased a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT with center console. I want to switch it to a jump seat though (yes I know.. why would I want to do this! but I have a big family and need that 6th seat sometimes). I see here thats its possible to have it wired from a jump seat to a center console minus the USB ports..... but how hard/easy would it be to configure the wiring going from a center console to a jump seat?

 

can you get all the hookups in the jumpseat to work?

 

Thanks for the help guys.

Where you located?? I would be interested in swapping/purchasing too!!! I have the gray jump seat!! I can post pics if you would like!!

Posted

I live in chicago IL, I have black interior.... My seats are the heated and cooled perforated seats, would that matter at all swapping to a jump seat?

 

Also I forgot about the subwoofer - I wonder if there is somewhere else I can mount it while still keeping it "hidden"?? Or do I have to remove It completely

Posted

I live in chicago IL, I have black interior.... My seats are the heated and cooled perforated seats, would that matter at all swapping to a jump seat?

 

Also I forgot about the subwoofer - I wonder if there is somewhere else I can mount it while still keeping it "hidden"?? Or do I have to remove It completely

 

wiring for bench seat is on floor near the front right seat and wiring for the console come from the instrument panel so if you want to put a bench instead the console you will have to extend the wiring and run in under the carpet up to the bench seat.......( i can do it easy cause i'm mechanic and very handy but it can be a nightmare for someone who isn't handy and no knowledge...

 

and you will need to remove the front bracket and replace by the cigar lighter tray , if not you will have a big nice hole in the middle of your instrument panel

 

best thing should be to do an exchange with someone who want a console and then you can have everything you need and the other guy too

 

but both will have to modify the wiring

hope it help

Posted

 

wiring for bench seat is on floor near the front right seat and wiring for the console come from the instrument panel so if you want to put a bench instead the console you will have to extend the wiring and run in under the carpet up to the bench seat.......( i can do it easy cause i'm mechanic and very handy but it can be a nightmare for someone who isn't handy and no knowledge...

 

and you will need to remove the front bracket and replace by the cigar lighter tray , if not you will have a big nice hole in the middle of your instrument panel

 

best thing should be to do an exchange with someone who want a console and then you can have everything you need and the other guy too

 

but both will have to modify the wiring

hope it help

Thanks for the info ravageur1972!! yea I am not a mechanic but my uncle is - so I would have him help me. -- in order to get the wiring under the carpet would you have to cut the carpet?

 

also do you have any ideas on how i can keep the subwoofer but still have it hidden? or should i just remove it completely?

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the info ravageur1972!! yea I am not a mechanic but my uncle is - so I would have him help me. -- in order to get the wiring under the carpet would you have to cut the carpet?

 

also do you have any ideas on how i can keep the subwoofer but still have it hidden? or should i just remove it completely?

 

for sure you are not suppose to cut the carpet...... may need a micro trim but no cutting

 

stock truck with a bench seat will have the harness running on the right side of truck then passing under the front passenger seat and then to the console....... left to you 2 options: you extend the harness and running it as the original should be or.....under the carpet straight from the middle of dash to the bench seat

second option will be easier but with time ( and sometimes it's ****ing fast ) will cause problem because anything can fall on the harness as it is not hide from foot , boot, bag, etc etc,

 

doing harness as original will take you more time ( to do a really clean job ) but for sure the best thing to do

harness should not interfere with any parts, it's also should not be a problem if you have to change something close to the harness,

 

for the sub ,,,pretty sure you can install it under the bench seat ........some place there ,or under the rear seat on right but you will see it when the rear seat will be raise....

 

again sorry for my poor english . lol i even not understand myself but hope it help

Edited by ravageur1972
Posted (edited)

Ok. I received my console this evening and went to removing jump seat. Passenger seat/jump seat are out, but I'm stuck. Evidently they shipped everything but top trim piece. So, how does the new bracket mount? I removed ash tray piece. Also, for the wiring, do I cut the big connector off new console and connector of jumpseat?

The part that was not shipped was 22995086. Does this include the drink holders and front 12v housing etc...?

Edited by Aldila
Posted

 

for sure you are not suppose to cut the carpet...... may need a micro trim but no cutting

 

stock truck with a bench seat will have the harness running on the right side of truck then passing under the front passenger seat and then to the console....... left to you 2 options: you extend the harness and running it as the original should be or.....under the carpet straight from the middle of dash to the bench seat

second option will be easier but with time ( and sometimes it's ****ing fast ) will cause problem because anything can fall on the harness as it is not hide from foot , boot, bag, etc etc,

 

doing harness as original will take you more time ( to do a really clean job ) but for sure the best thing to do

harness should not interfere with any parts, it's also should not be a problem if you have to change something close to the harness,

 

for the sub ,,,pretty sure you can install it under the bench seat ........some place there ,or under the rear seat on right but you will see it when the rear seat will be raise....

 

again sorry for my poor english . lol i even not understand myself but hope it help

Again thanks for this great information! My Uncle and I will install it the correct 1st way.

 

Is it somehow possible to make a bracket or something to still have the 110v plugs and usb plugs on the dash you think?

Posted

Again thanks for this great information! My Uncle and I will install it the correct 1st way.

 

Is it somehow possible to make a bracket or something to still have the 110v plugs and usb plugs on the dash you think?

 

sure . i had a bench seat before and had 110v and 12v in dash too

all come with cigar tray

Posted

Ok. I received my console this evening and went to removing jump seat. Passenger seat/jump seat are out, but I'm stuck. Evidently they shipped everything but top trim piece. So, how does the new bracket mount? I removed ash tray piece. Also, for the wiring, do I cut the big connector off new console and connector of jumpseat?

The part that was not shipped was 22995086. Does this include the drink holders and front 12v housing etc...?

 

Yes it does.

Posted

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the 5 main parts for the console from gmpartsoutlet.net. Good news is the price was right. The bad news is they say the console part number is a "future" part that is unavailable from GM. i gave them a part number from their own site! So, now I have 4 pieces to a console and no console on its way..... This has got to be a dealer only item and some of these places are GM parts only sites or something. I am on a roll lately.......

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Did you use this #23466980? If you have black interior.

I tried both part numbers listed in this thread for a black console. I ended up getting a console for a Denali or Yukon (part #22995066) and paid even less! I hope there are not many differences. I got the console in and the parts from GM Parts Outlet and everything looks good and fits together. We will find out this weekend if it goes as planned. I got the console from Penske GMC in Torrance, CA off Ebay for $341.83. They even shipped it overnight!!!

Edited by krdeal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 298 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...