Jump to content

New member, my Sierra 2014 rcsb


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everybody i just signed up in this forum, i am from. UAE, dubai.

owner of a rscb 2014 sierra i hope i can be a part of this great community

 

Here are some photos,

 

My truck is lowered 2" in the front and 3" while putting the block under the leaf springs in the back. so i think its like 4.5"/5" in the back cause stock it was riding very high and wont match my "20 inches volk rays wheels.

 

I wanted your opinion my grille and bumper are chrome cause its single cab it it's only available as sle, unlike the slt and denali which have body colored bumpers, so i've been thinking of painting them to match my car color, what do you think guys?

 

And i have goodyear tyres which i think are making the vibrations when going over 120kmph / 75mph do you suggest i change my tyres? Cause im sure the alignment is 100% and im not sure if there is anything else that could be the cause other than those goodyears.

 

Performance wise i didnt touch my 5.3 other than a tune, but i talked to the dealer and special requested a 6.2L EcoTec3 engine to be put under my regular cab hood, longtube headers,custom exhaust k&n air intake filter and a tune, im hoping for 500 hp at the flywheel. Thats enough for a daily driver :)

 

Thanks everybody, english is not my first language i apologize.post-127264-0-35770400-1390032941_thumb.jpgpost-127264-0-36335900-1390033101_thumb.jpgpost-127264-0-41263000-1390033135_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-35770400-1390032941_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-36335900-1390033101_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-41263000-1390033135_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-35770400-1390032941_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-36335900-1390033101_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-41263000-1390033135_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-35770400-1390032941_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-36335900-1390033101_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-41263000-1390033135_thumb.jpg

Posted

Welcome. Nice ride! I think I would source out an all terrain grill and bumper call done. Also, my first step to try and hunt down the vibration would to have the tires road force balanced. If that doesn't work then have the dealership replace the tires. There are quite a few others on the forum that have had bad vibration issues and it's proven pretty hard to track down. Good luck!

 

BTW your English is better than some others on this forum and English as their first language. LOL

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

Posted

Thanks everyone for the nice welcome i really appreciate your opinions,

 

An all terrain bumper and grill do you mean the slt bodycolored ones?

 

i replaced my tyres and rims at a local tyre/rims shop so i dont think the gmc dealer will help me with the vibration issue, since my tyres are not oem

 

My rims are 20" volk rays ce28n, and my tyres are goodyears and not the original factory tyres,

 

Thank you, rashid.

Posted

I've made up my mind im gonna bodycolor match both front and back bumpers, i dont like the look of my current grill so im thinking of replacing it with the one shown in pic

 

 

post-127264-0-58377100-1390087505_thumb.jpg

 

But is this grill the all terrain one? and if it is then i can definitely get it from the dealer. If not please direct me from where i can buy it, thanks alot @bringtherain

post-127264-0-58377100-1390087505_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-58377100-1390087505_thumb.jpg

post-127264-0-58377100-1390087505_thumb.jpg

Posted

Yes those are all-terrain packages on both of those trucks. The grill and bumper are both available through your dealer...

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

Posted

The painted bumpers chip like crazy,mine is only at 1000 miles and there are like a dozen nice size chips,thinking of getting the chrome put on. Looks like they are going to open a Texas Road House restaurant there in March. You should try it out if you like barbecue.

Posted

Finally another member with the exact same truck as me haha. I'm going through the same dilemma as you with the chrome bumpers. I will do it myself as the factory painted ones chip like crazy. Its not easy to do it proper though as you have to acid etch the chrome off so only the nickel base remains. Painting over the chrome will net you the same result as the factory painted bumpers (easy chipping). As far as swapping to the 6.2 goes, why not just turbo it? Much easier to do and you will make a lot more power than the 6.2. If you wanted to swap the motor I wouldn't waste my time going to the 6.2. Get a crate engine that will actually make it worth your while. Sinister racecraft already has a turbo kit for our trucks and they have the same scsb truck we do. They are running a fairly small turbo and are already down to low 11's. If you have your heart set on a motor swap, call nelson racing and get them to build you a proper motor for it. I know your from Dubai and I don't mean to stereotype but you probably have more money than you know what to do with haha so do it proper.

Posted

Nice truck. I love the look of a RCSB..... My Dad has a Black 11 Sierra RCSB. Love that truck. every now and then Wish I could get by with a truck like that.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...