Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm still in for the updates. I'm very curious what GM is going to say regarding this rust. As said, it looks horrible and maybe the metal was exposed to something other then salty air. I was born and raised in Pennsylvania and I've seen less rust on a 20 year old car that was rarely cleaned underneath.

Posted

+1 - still watching here as well.

 

GM is pretty silent on the deal. Wonder why that is??? Guilty conscience? A company as big as GM surely reads posts about their products .....

 

 

 

Here's a tip General Motors: maybe if you stop CUTTING CORNERS and build products based on MERIT, you'll make the money your looking for HONESTLY .... instead of screwing the people who support you!! When we're all driving Fords and Dodges, where will you be then? ANOTHER bailout? I wouldn't count on it.

 

This is EXACTLY why GM should have been left to fail. Let the taxpayers keep their money. Let the markets WORK!

  • Like 1
Posted

update #7

 

 

Went to dealer, met rep, he agreed to blast the chassis and re - undercoat it with something,,,,,,,,,,said there was no integrity of strength issues......( not yet). The GM was great and really went to bat for me at Santa Paula Chev, the rep was cool too after we discussed the issues. One cause was possibly during transport it could of gotten salted on the car carrier . I also was told the frames are made of iron not steel........hmmmmm, iron rusts a lot faster than steel....

 

We shall see, I left the truck there so we will see what it looks like next week.........pics to follow

Posted (edited)

update #7

 

 

Went to dealer, met rep, he agreed to blast the chassis and re - undercoat it with something,,,,,,,,,,said there was no integrity of strength issues......( not yet). The GM was great and really went to bat for me at Santa Paula Chev, the rep was cool too after we discussed the issues. One cause was possibly during transport it could of gotten salted on the car carrier . I also was told the frames are made of iron not steel........hmmmmm, iron rusts a lot faster than steel....

 

We shall see, I left the truck there so we will see what it looks like next week.........pics to follow

Have them use this stuff (POR 15), you will have no more rust problems;

 

http://www.por15.com/

Edited by Gurrzt
Posted

Hope they get it fixed up properly for you, as in undercoat it and not overspray everything else.

They already forewarned me of the overspray possibilities.......I shrugged it off and basically said do what you have to do to stop this rusting sh*t....wire wheel it, blast it, get rid of what you can and then I more than likely will trade her in. I ll post pics once she's done, we shall see

Posted

Hate to say it, but the lot boy/car washer they assign this job to is not going to be a happy camper.

  • Like 1
Posted

....wire wheel it, blast it, get rid of what you can...

Honestly, this is what I highly doubt is going to happen.

 

I hope for you that I'm wrong but I bet they just spray the new sh*t on as it is.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

Posted

It's too bad they wouldn't find something like the old QuakerKote to spray, that stuff never sets up and lasted forever. I sprayed a lot of cars with it.

Posted

I'm partial to used motor oil. It ain't pretty ... and it smokes and stinks ... and will hide other issues when your new V8 decides to puke oil, but it's FREE.

 

Plus, it gets the enviro-weenies panties in a bunch. I prefer to coat mine on earth day. :drool:

Posted

I'm partial to used motor oil. It ain't pretty ... and it smokes and stinks ... and will hide other issues when your new V8 decides to puke oil, but it's FREE.

 

Plus, it gets the enviro-weenies panties in a bunch. I prefer to coat mine on earth day. :drool:

I oil mine also...never had a rust issue.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,252 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...