Jump to content

Engine Temp running cool

wotexva99
 Share

Recommended Posts

wotexva99 Enthusiast

wotexva99

Posted
Posted

I have a 01 1500 HD (154,xxx miles) and as long as I can remember my engine ran at about 210 (right below it). However this week I noticed it was running at at about 180-185f (. It would stay at that temp on streets or highway driving. So, yesterday I replaced my thermostat with the 187f therm which is what comes from the factory. However today it got up to 210 then dropped to 185 or so and stayed there.

 

How come it is running cooler now when it has always ran a hair under 210f? The only thing I could think of is maybe the coolant temp sensor is bad but IDK.

 

 

Here is where it runs at now(red line) and where it used to run (stock needle)

post-58366-0-64700600-1399610533.jpg

post-58366-0-64700600-1399610533.jpg

post-58366-0-64700600-1399610533.jpg

post-58366-0-64700600-1399610533.jpg

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

I could be wrong, which is always possible, but I thought the stock thermostats for these trucks were 195*? Don't know why that would make such a difference but I think you may have gotten the incorrect temp rated thermostat.

efritz Enthusiast

efritz

Posted
Posted

I accidentally bought a lower temp stat and it did that. The only possible negative effect would be very slightly lower mileage as temps would be lower. You really need to get a scantool that can read live data to make sure the gauge isn't inaccurate.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

I accidentally bought a lower temp stat and it did that. The only possible negative effect would be very slightly lower mileage as temps would be lower. You really need to get a scantool that can read live data to make sure the gauge isn't inaccurate.

+1

Gurrzt Enthusiast

Gurrzt

Posted
Posted

I accidentally bought a lower temp stat and it did that. The only possible negative effect would be very slightly lower mileage as temps would be lower. You really need to get a scantool that can read live data to make sure the gauge isn't inaccurate.

 

 

+1

 

Unless you adjust your "on/off" temperature of your fans (ECM adjust) it does not matter what temperature the thermostat is, the water will heat up to the prescribed temperature the fan is programed to.

wotexva99 Enthusiast

wotexva99

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The therm I pulled out said 86c which converts 187f

 

Why did it run at a lower temp with old therm(for a week or so) and new therm?

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

Unless you adjust your "on/off" temperature of your fans (ECM adjust) it does not matter what temperature the thermostat is, the water will heat up to the prescribed temperature the fan is programed to.

This is true, but since he only replaced the thermostat, why is it now running cooler with the same program but new thermostat? That's what's got me curious.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

Unless you adjust your "on/off" temperature of your fans (ECM adjust) it does not matter what temperature the thermostat is, the water will heat up to the prescribed temperature the fan is programed to.

 

 

Except for the fact 2001 models do not have e-fans..........

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

187 is the correct therm. 195 is the operating temp. 187 is just the temp where the thermostat opens to let coolant circulate

wotexva99 Enthusiast

wotexva99

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is true, but since he only replaced the thermostat, why is it now running cooler with the same program but new thermostat? That's what's got me curious.

 

187 is the correct therm. 195 is the operating temp. 187 is just the temp where the thermostat opens to let coolant circulate

 

Why did it always run hotter til now with new therm???

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

That one I cant answer. When searching for new thermostats the factory replacement I find is 187.

wotexva99 Enthusiast

wotexva99

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The only thing I could think of is maybe the coolant temp sensor is bad but IDK. I am little concearned only because I am heading up the Cajon pass to Barsrtow towing about 1500-3000lb in my utility trailer on Memorial Day weekend

Gurrzt Enthusiast

Gurrzt

Posted
Posted

 

 

Except for the fact 2001 models do not have e-fans..........

 

The only vehicle I can reference is "Sara" (2001 Camaro Z28) and she DOES have "e fans". I to installed a 185F thermostat in her, and when I had a dyno tune (for other matters), I had the tuner set the fan on/off speed to correspond with the lower thermostat.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

The only thing I could think of is maybe the coolant temp sensor is bad but IDK. I am little concearned only because I am heading up the Cajon pass to Barsrtow towing about 1500-3000lb in my utility trailer on Memorial Day weekend

Running slightly cool is fine. That pass isnt that bad for your truck and only towing up to 3000 pounds. There is a lot worse in the area thst I can think of.

wotexva99 Enthusiast

wotexva99

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the input Chris. Btw, I'm heading to Barstow(Slash x area) to go riding in a few weeks and just want to make sure my truck is running up to par

Edited by 1500HD Todd

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...