Jump to content

EChavez - 2014 Sierra SLT 6.2 White Diamond


EChavez

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Washed her & colormatched the fender moldings

 

2zqrksh.jpg

 

looks great with the fender moldings matched, might have to do the same!

 

What product did you use to color match the fender moldings. I was just thinking about that today while i was reading other post about upgrading and customizing...looks awesome

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

What product did you use to color match the fender moldings. I was just thinking about that today while i was reading other post about upgrading and customizing...looks awesome

 

Thank you. I used Plastidip, used white and pearlizer. 4-5 coats each to match the WDT.

Posted

I've already modded my vehicle but I figured I'd start a build thread since it's going to be a slow build. Here are the mods I have planned, feel free to throw in suggestions as I usually do something and add it to the list later on lol.

 

Completed Mods:

- 5000K TRS HID's

- 5000K HIDGUY Fog Lights HID's

- Reverse, License Plate, Cargo Lamp LED's

- Cleared Headlights

- Swithback Turn Signals

- LED Reverse Pods Wired w/ Reverse

- Ceramic Tint 15%, 35%, and 50%

- Flowmaster Original 40 Exhaust

- Colormatched GMC Emblems

 

Future Mods:

- Cold Air Intake

- AMP Retractable Steps

- Colormatch Fender Moldings

- Colormatch Front/Rear Bumpers

- Denali Grille

- JL TW3 12's

- JL ZR 650 CSI's

- 7 Inch lift

- 22x12 Fuel's

- 35" Toyos

- Twin Turbo System

- Smoked Tailights

Debating on those last two ;)

 

Here's a couple pics from day one

293d7vn.jpg

2chmkcp.jpg

 

HID's Installed (old DDM's)

24ywsas.jpg

 

Retrofit Done

b3khzt.jpg

2euq51h.jpg

 

New Hid's Installed, Cleared, Swithbacks, Fogs (TRS/HIDGUY)

28thvm1.jpg

 

Colormatched Rear Emblem

1zf0inc.jpg

 

How she's sits now

e99f2o.jpg

qzm6pd.jpg69i6g8.jpg

1zwd8og.jpg

33xygro.jpg

 

& just got an exhaust put on Thursday. Original 40 flowmaster. Here is a video

 

video of the halos as well

 

For your colormatch on your front emblem, did you "plastidip" or did your get the billet replacement letters and just remove the OEM red? Also, when you installed your HIDS, did you have to replace the whole headlight component, or just the bulbs. I've seen vids on Realtruck.com where they replace the whole housing. Thanks

Posted

For your colormatch on your front emblem, did you "plastidip" or did your get the billet replacement letters and just remove the OEM red? Also, when you installed your HIDS, did you have to replace the whole headlight component, or just the bulbs. I've seen vids on Realtruck.com where they replace the whole housing. Thanks

Anything on this truck that's color matched is plastidipped.

Posted

Anything on this truck that's color matched is plastidipped.

Thank you Sir. I had just watched a vid where he removed the OEM red letters, and replaced them with color coded billet replacement letters. Your match looks awesome. Plan on getting the same look.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Where did you order your white diamond accessories from? I have a 2015 White Tricoat Sierra Denali..

I got my accessories from GMC, sometimes you will need to bust on your dealer to match them better. My wheel well covers looked horrible the first set not even close in matching so they got another set. And the Mirror covers they painted 2 sets, because the installer ****ed it up on the install and the paint ran. So be on top of the dealer and force them to get the shit right.

I am happy since I got GMC parts with the correct paint, it is a Denali and it matters to me to do it with paint.

I finally got the bed extender. Now I can put my fishing poles in the back correctly. I use the extender as a 3 level pole rack for deep sea fishing. Big on the bottom medium middle and bait pole on top. Usually can carry 9- 15 poles that way in an X, and it keeps the tips in better shape. the extender is folded in not out for the poles to be placed. 7-8 ft poles in an X . Pretty sure everyone gets the idea.

Posted

So I finally got the AMP steps and RC 2.5" leveling kit finished. Did it at home instead of taking it to a shop and things turned out pretty well. No wheels have flown off the truck yet so I think I am good to go lol.

347zlzq.jpg

EChavez

Does your Denali have the "Magna" ride, and if so, how did your leveling kit affect it? Secondly, your AMP step, when mounted is it just as stable and firm as the stock step? Thanks man...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

EChavez

Does your Denali have the "Magna" ride, and if so, how did your leveling kit affect it? Secondly, your AMP step, when mounted is it just as stable and firm as the stock step? Thanks man...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

My Sierra is an SLT and not a Denali so no it didn't come with the magnetic ride that's found on the new Denali's. I can't say how an leveling kit would affect your truck because I don't know which kits are/aren't compatible with that style of truck.

 

My amp steps are sturdy and have been great since day one. I have passengers all the time and they're obviously used everyday but I haven't had any issues. They are a very quality aftermarket running board.

Posted

Thank you Sir... And my mistake thought your Sierra came with Magna ride.... Forgot it was the Denali only..

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

As requested here's a pic of the pod's light output. The passenger's side pod doesn't seem to put out the same amount of light as the driver's side. If anyone has any idea why I'd love to know. Moto maybe? Lol

wurrqh.jpg

EChavez

 

Question, your reverse light POD. Is it mainly to illuminate the area behind better when backing.. just curious

Posted

EChavez

 

Question, your reverse light POD. Is it mainly to illuminate the area behind better when backing.. just curious

 

Yes sir, I wanted a switch wired up just for tailgaters but I couldn't get it to work properly so I just left it as a reverse only light. It really helps if you have tinted windows.

Posted

 

Yes sir, I wanted a switch wired up just for tailgaters but I couldn't get it to work properly so I just left it as a reverse only light. It really helps if you have tinted windows.

I'm assuming you have a back up camera as well? But, in any case it Def gives that back area much more light especially when backing without camera. Did you angle the pods a Lil off center or did you stay centermass? Thanks man..

 

Sent from my SG Note 4 on Tapatalk

Posted

I'm assuming you have a back up camera as well? But, in any case it Def gives that back area much more light especially when backing without camera. Did you angle the pods a Lil off center or did you stay centermass? Thanks man..

 

Sent from my SG Note 4 on Tapatalk

 

Yes sir and I love it.

 

The are pretty much straight and they are spots, but still cover the area well. I want to replace them with some flood's eventually but these are working fine right now.

Posted

 

Yes sir and I love it.

 

The are pretty much straight and they are spots, but still cover the area well. I want to replace them with some flood's eventually but these are working fine right now.

Awesome man. They look great, nice idea.

 

Sent from my SG Note 4 on Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So it's come to my attention that I've neglected this build thread. So I'll do my best to update it thus far.

 

Since my last post I plasti dipped some of the trim on the truck, I then dipped the wheels black, swapped grille emblems, and ran 2" spacers. Also installed a cutout and got a custom billet "bullet style" antenna. Here are a few pics.

2rejgok.jpg

16irw9w.jpg

 

Colormatched grille surround and swapped to a GMC color themed emblem

99fiis.jpg

Installed 3.5 DMH electric cutout

34pm2r6.jpg

ir3sj4.jpg

Ran 2" Spacers

2a7fjmc.jpg

20hlic2.jpg

And as of most recently, swapped wheels and tires. Now I'm running 20x12 Hostile's -44 offset with 305/50r20 toyo at2s

alnh93.jpg

2zoyo49.jpg

29as7ls.jpg

nyi7pu.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...