Jump to content

Have questions about a bed liner


Recommended Posts

Posted
I just bought a new truck and need some advise.  I am not sure if I should go with a plastic or spray in bed liner.  I have seen the pro’s and con’s to both.  I like the looks of the spay in, but I am not sure how easily it dents the bed and I am not sure how much, if any, it fads.  I am looking to own this truck for as long as it runs, hopefully at least 12 years.  I am not in constructions, but occasionally I will be throwing heavy stuff in the back such as wood and concrete.  Should I go with a plastic or spray in?  What are you thoughts and experiences?  Thanks in advance.
Posted

Have you looked at a BedRug?  I am getting one for my Silverado SS.  

http://www.bedrug.com

I saw a sample of the material at a local 4x4 store.  It has a tough carpet top with a molded waterproof foam backing that fits the grooves in the bed.  Looks to be tough enough for throwing stuff in the back, and soft enough to sleep on when camping.

Posted
only con with the bedrug that i have run into is sliding stuff towards the front of the bed.  There is alot of friction and you will have to jump in the bed to put stuff way up front.  PITA if you have a cap.  I have first hand experience as I worked in a lumber yard.  When a truck came in with a bed rug and needed concrete we ran the other way because we always knew they wanted it close to the cab and you couldnt slide the bags in
Posted

RyanbabZ71-

Actually, the sticky carpet is a plus for me and I am glad to hear it works so well.  I usually have stuff in the back that I don't want sliding around.  I can see how it would be a less desirable in your instance, though.  Have you heard of any problems with water trapped between the Bedrug and the truck bed being a problem?  I will have a shell on mine, so I am not worried, just curious for others.

Posted

no i havent heard or seen any water problems with the bedrugs.  my rhino liner holds things in place but you can push stuff towards the front if needed.

 

id get a bedrug before i got a drop in though.  My dads 11 yr old S-10 with a drop in is recking havoc on his bed (rusting bad and he has a cap)

 

Ill have to snap some pics one it gets washed again.

Posted

I really like my speedliner.  It still looks great after being on 16 months out in the weather and sun. No fade or getting hard. Still plyable. Stuff sticks but not like a bedrug. I'm not to picky on dents and stuff so that part doesn't bother me, but it will dent more than a plastic liner. I also got it up over the bed side so I can walk on the rails with traction and load things without worring about scratching, although I did put a nice one on the side while putting my daughters wheel chair in the back. DUH!!!! :seeya:

 

:D

Posted
I pulled out my plastic drop in liner and went with the heavy rubber mat. The drop in liners ruin the paint on the top of the bed rails unless you get one of those that go under the rail. I like the rubber mat, nothing slides around on that. :thumb:
Posted
i've got a bed-rug     i love it but stuff will slid around if you don't put a load lock in or do as i did-----cut a 2x4 and put across the bed---it keeps things a little closer-----plus i can sleep on it or whatever??????     i also have a cover on bed-----the only place that gets wet   is where the cover comes across the gap between the bed and tailgate-----it dries on its on---don't hafta worry about nothing   staining it-its got a scotch guard on it  -but i don't haul motors or greassy things around anyway-sorry for being long  :thumb:  :thumb:  :thumb:
Posted

My truck is a work truck and hauls everything from A to Zl. Seriuosly I have thrown gravel, cylinder heads, dropped engines onto the Rhino liner and you simply cannot hurt it. I sent one of my girls out for some errands today she left the tailgate down and thought that she had lost some starter cores, They didn't even slide on this stuff and iff they did, there's a 1/4" slab on the tailgate to get beyond. Good stuff I cannot say enough about a quality spray in liner.

 

Have a great one!

Posted

Love my Line-X spray in but the Bedrug would be the next best alternative.  Expecially if you have a cap.  I have to assume holding water under it would be a problem otherwise.  I think Rhino might be a better spray in if you are really worried about dents.  Its a little thicker and rubberier.  With any spray in you can ask (and pay for) them to install it thicker to help with shock absorption (dent resistance).

 

You may want to re-think the need for "dent resistance".  Don't know what wood and concrete you'll be hauling but these beds will take a beating without a dent even with no protection.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Go with a Rhino ! Works great, lifetime warranty! Since you plan on keeping your truck for a long time this would probably be your best bet. Good luck on your decision!
Posted

As far a plastic bed liners go you can get what is called a bed protector, which is a foam sheet that goes between the bed and the liner and prevents the bed liner from scuffing the paint.  I used this once and took the bedliner out a year or so later and the bed was still shiney.

 

:thumb:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,847
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    FiLo
    Newest Member
    FiLo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 654 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...