How Hard Is It To Change An Idler Arm & Front Pivot Assembly?

[SSSilverado23]

I just got some news from a local tire shop that I have a bad Idler Arm and Front Pivot Assembly on my 2004 Silverado 1500. I brought it in for an alignment because it was pulling and or going in both directions while driving randomly. They said it needs these parts plus and alignment. I have no faith in the shops around me so I was curious if this not only sounds right, but also if its a difficult job? Any advice and help is appreciated!

[Jsdirt]

I know on the S-series pickups they were a pain in the balls - had to remove the entire steering box to get them out. Should be a bit easier on these, provided you have the right tools of course. Any front end work is a bit of labor if you've never done it before.

 

Jack up each wheel by the lower control arm and use a long prybar to check for up/down play. Grab at 2 & 8, and at 3 & 9 and check for play in those directions. Play at 2 & 8 only is bearings, 3 & 9 tie rod or rack ends .. or the parts mentioned, up & down (12 & 6) is ball joints.

[NitroCherokee]

I am not sure what a pivot assembly is, I assume you mean Pitman Arm? For me they aren't much of a job at all, but i also have done literally 100+ and have the proper equipment. If you don't have all the correct tools and I assume you've never done it before if asking I would just take it to a reputable shop. Labor to install shouldn't be very much. Idler is real easy, Pitman is a little more involved

[Jsdirt]

Pivot assembly ...... he might be talking about the center link ...??

[Doug_Scott]

Never heard a centre link called a pivot assembly. Heard it called a drag link though. Did find this when looking for pivot assembly in google. Does not really help me, it looks too much like an aftermarket product, don't see how a stock truck could need one.

[MikeNH]

Maybe OP means pitman arm and idler arm?

[daxr]

I just got some news from a local tire shop that I have a bad Idler Arm and Front Pivot Assembly on my 2004 Silverado 1500. I brought it in for an alignment because it was pulling and or going in both directions while driving randomly. They said it needs these parts plus and alignment. I have no faith in the shops around me so I was curious if this not only sounds right, but also if its a difficult job? Any advice and help is appreciated!

First, its easy. Second, you don't need a pivot assembly. I've replaced a couple hundred idler arms on those and never had to replace a single pivot assembly - they just don't wear out. Some mechanics would rather replace them both because it saves a step, and some service departments like to replace both because it runs the ticket up.

 

Remove the cover plate from the front and you access it easily. Remove the whole idler/pivot assembly by undoing the bolts holding the idler to the center link - you need a picklefork usually, or a fancy separator. Then two bolts hold the pivot to the frame. Pull the assembly out and run the 15/16th bolt off the end of the pivot. I separate the two by laying the ldler end on an anvil and striking it once or twice with a 3lb sledge. Careful not to hit the pivot, or to rest the flange of the pivot on the anvil. Its a tapered joint and it will pop free. Then bolt the new idler to the old pivot and reassemble. That's about it - about a 20 minute job in total.

[Jsdirt]

Ok - what the hell is a pivot assembly???

[Duelin]

I think they are calling the Idler Arm Bracket Assembly a pivot assembly.

[Doug_Scott]

First, its easy. Second, you don't need a pivot assembly. I've replaced a couple hundred idler arms on those and never had to replace a single pivot assembly - they just don't wear out. Some mechanics would rather replace them both because it saves a step, and some service departments like to replace both because it runs the ticket up.

 

Remove the cover plate from the front and you access it easily. Remove the whole idler/pivot assembly by undoing the bolts holding the idler to the center link - you need a picklefork usually, or a fancy separator. Then two bolts hold the pivot to the frame. Pull the assembly out and run the 15/16th bolt off the end of the pivot. I separate the two by laying the ldler end on an anvil and striking it once or twice with a 3lb sledge. Careful not to hit the pivot, or to rest the flange of the pivot on the anvil. Its a tapered joint and it will pop free. Then bolt the new idler to the old pivot and reassemble. That's about it - about a 20 minute job in total.

 

Sounds like this job pays .5h to .6h if it takes 20 min with no issues. Wonder what they charge for changing the pivot assembly when done in conjunction with idler arm. Should actually be less total labour than just changing the idler arm. From the description above, if changing both parts, technician just needs to change the 15/16th nut over, without even having to split idler arm from pivot assembly. Or does the idler arm come with a new 15/16th nut?

 

From the sounds of it, the only wear on the pivot assembly can be in the tapered seat. That only happens if the nut is not torqued correctly and comes loose. The rocking of the tapered shaft will wear the seat. If the shaft is so loose to cause that, good luck getting the nut off. If it is loose there, it MUST be replaced. Idler arm likely carries a tag warning of that.

 

As a side note, this is something that happens with ball joints sometimes. If you ever run into a ball joint that is loose in the seat side(usually the spindle on conventional suspension), replace the spindle as well. Never just replace the ball joint in those cases. New ball joints will fail if both parts are not replaced.

[daxr]

 

Sounds like this job pays .5h to .6h if it takes 20 min with no issues. Wonder what they charge for changing the pivot assembly when done in conjunction with idler arm. Should actually be less total labour than just changing the idler arm. From the description above, if changing both parts, technician just needs to change the 15/16th nut over, without even having to split idler arm from pivot assembly. Or does the idler arm come with a new 15/16th nut?

 

From the sounds of it, the only wear on the pivot assembly can be in the tapered seat. That only happens if the nut is not torqued correctly and comes loose. The rocking of the tapered shaft will wear the seat. If the shaft is so loose to cause that, good luck getting the nut off. If it is loose there, it MUST be replaced. Idler arm likely carries a tag warning of that.

 

As a side note, this is something that happens with ball joints sometimes. If you ever run into a ball joint that is loose in the seat side(usually the spindle on conventional suspension), replace the spindle as well. Never just replace the ball joint in those cases. New ball joints will fail if both parts are not replaced.

The new pivot (bracket) comes with a new 15/16th nut. Might mention - its a heavy self-locking nut. I always re-use the old one, and put a bit of lube on the threads so it runs up easier. I suppose its not the best practice, but the one part that can be tricky is running the self-locking bolt up; it wants to spin the pivot as it goes, and until the taper is snug there's not an easy way to hold it from spinning if the locking nut has too much resistance going on.

 

If you lube the threads on the old one and hold the taper down snug, it will usually gun right down, to 150lb or so of torque. I've done it this way for years, and never had one loosen up. I've never seen one come in where the stock bolt had loosened up there either.

[Jsdirt]

 

I think they are calling the Idler Arm Bracket Assembly a pivot assembly.

 

Ahh thanks for clearing that up. Regional terminology varies wildly. Us MA guys have a language all unto ourselves up here ...

[Doug_Scott]

As you have already mentioned it is not the best practice. Self locking nuts used to be called suicide nuts. They started showing up just as I was transitioning out of the trade on front end parts. Really preferred castellated nuts and cotter pins myself. Never hard to put together. I was nice though, I ran the cotter pin through grease before inserting through nut.

[daxr]

As you have already mentioned it is not the best practice. Self locking nuts used to be called suicide nuts. They started showing up just as I was transitioning out of the trade on front end parts. Really preferred castellated nuts and cotter pins myself. Never hard to put together. I was nice though, I ran the cotter pin through grease before inserting through nut.

A bit of Loctite is best if one is worried. I always loctite inner tie rod ends, because you can't really put too much torque on them. I think I loctite'd the first few idler arms pivot bolts I did that way, but again never seen a problem. Its a very heavy-duty piece, and the centerlink end of the idler has a rubber/plastic internal socket that absorbs most of the road force, and will give way long before anything happens to the pivot.

[Duelin]

"I suppose its not the best practice, but the one part that can be tricky is running the self-locking bolt up; it wants to spin the pivot as it goes, and until the taper is snug there's not an easy way to hold it from spinning if the locking nut has too much resistance going on."

 

What I do is take an open end wrench and take up the space behind the nut and let it suck the taper in place. Then back off and take the wrench out and then tighten the nut up all the way.