What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

[SnakeEyeSS]

Yeah, I have done it before. There are youtube vids, pretty simple process.

 

My evaporator core was nasty. A ton of grass and leaves built up on one side, can't figure out how to much crap made it in the tube passageway. No obvious leak spots, until I hit it with UV in the dark. One corner turned green.

Edited June 22, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[SnakeEyeSS]

The only thing still on the car is the condenser.

 

I forgot to buy AC flush solvent, not sure if the "kit"(its called a kit so it better have some) I bought includes any. Do I need to get some or will simple green be fine? Just flushing the condenser.

 

 

Also, anyone know of a trick to get oil out of the compressor? It sounds like a little is still in, but with the hoses disconnected and holes down, I am turning the clutch and only a drop came out. I'm guessing it's pretty empty since vids I just found and watched used the same method I did and oil came pouring out.

 

 

Check out the evaporator, after I brushed it off:

 

Edited June 22, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[Jsdirt]

Good find on that evaporator - just the cleaning alone will improve it's performance.

 

 

If you mean flushing the interior of the condenser, if it's a parallel-flow (modern) design, it can only be flushed with specialized equipment that can generate the high volume and pressure required to get it clean. DO NOT use simple green inside it. The R-12 tube and fin condensers can easily be flushed. There are a few serpentine variations that are a bit more difficult to get clean without the equipment. Just FYI, whenever the term "flush" is used, it's understood to mean inside the hoses, condenser, and evaporator.

 

Exterior is fine, to get grease and bugs off. Since it's aluminum, Simple Green is about as harsh a cleaner as I'd want to go. Zep Purple Degreaser (for example) will etch the aluminum if left on any length of time - stuff is super alkaline.

 

With compressors, I flush them with the oil I plan to use in the system. I dump it in, rotate the compressor 10x in each direction, then dump. I do this until the oil comes out completely spotless on a white paper towel.

 

If the system was operated low on charge for a length of time, you'll find a majority of the oil in the evaporator. That's usually what kills the compressor eventually. That oil needs to move through the compressor in order for it to live. Oil doesn't move without refrigerant, and the less refrigerant there is, the less it moves.

 

When a system has been completely flushed of all residual oil, I find the system oil capacity spec., and divide it up between the components. I'll throw 4-5 oz. in the compressor, an ounce or 2 in the condenser, and accumulator, and a little in the suction line close to the accumulator, all depending on system capacity. On an economy car, I'd dial these numbers back a bit.

Edited June 23, 2016 by Jsdirt

[SnakeEyeSS]

I am replacing evaporator, all lines, accumulator, orifice tube.

 

So the only parts remaining are the compressor, condenser, and low side pressure switch.

 

I used paint remover and isopropyl alcohol to flush it(noticed a few cans of flush look like thinner cans with a different label). I found a site saying ford and GM are a select few who say to flush condenser. I have flush air through a few times, 100-120 PSI. Removed a good bit of oil/dye.

 

System calls for 9 oz so I'm putting in 8 oz. I got a few more ounces out of compressor, I was right at guessing a bolt was a drain plug. Can still hear a little in there.

 

I have the heater core and new evaporator in, the condenser flused, and leaving the plugs on everything so I can bolt everything up quick without much exposure. Waiting on UPS, so probably going to be waiting a while(I'm near the end of their route I think).

 

 

Waiting for the garage floor to dry, just had to rinse out my homebrew solvent. Got some on my face, hands and arms, because the flush fitting was a tad too big for the condenser line. YEOW! Didnt leave a burn but dang it hurt.

Edited June 23, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[KARNUT]

You haven't lived till you get splash back from brake clean, made a goggle wearer out of me. Those little work gloves too, and long sleeve work shirts. You pay the price later, believe me.

[Jsdirt]

I guess that's one good part of the militant "green" movement. The watered-down stuff we get today doesn't burn half as bad as it used to. A few seconds of stinging, and you're back in action. Don't even lose vision for a day like we used to.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Running vacuum. Hour to go, down to 27 inches of mercury.

 

The stuff I bought had methanol, Acetone, mineral oil, anf Toluene( I think). Then I added Isopropyl Alcohol to liquid it. Only let it set for 5 minutes since it burned me so much.

 

 

My freon can tap's gasket turned to dust. Hope it doesn't leak. Hate to be this close and make another parts run. Think I'll put some PTFE tape on the threads.

Edited June 23, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[Jsdirt]

Nice. I just spent the last 2 days and 230 miles of driving trying to get the A/C in our '93 Volvo 940 back in action. First I had the wrong condenser, wrong accumulator, then, couldn't find a new liquid line (corroded - twisted right in half on removal) - dropped that off at a company in the city that specializes in high-pressure lines - should be done in a couple days. What a friggin nightmare! The '86 Grand Marquis was 10x easier.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Nice. I just spent the last 2 days and 230 miles of driving trying to get the A/C in our '93 Volvo 940 back in action. First I had the wrong condenser, wrong accumulator, then, couldn't find a new liquid line (corroded - twisted right in half on removal) - dropped that off at a company in the city that specializes in high-pressure lines - should be done in a couple days. What a friggin nightmare! The '86 Grand Marquis was 10x easier.

 

The high side line to the evaporator wasn't quite right. My old one wasn't either, since it rubbed a hole against the EGR line. Had to reshape it a little. Really hoping it's sealing well.

[Jsdirt]

If you have all new o-rings, and lubed them before install, it should be fine.

 

I've had to tweak a few lines here in there on some jobs, just to avoid future damage. Sometimes I'll zip-tie a couple layers of inner tube around the line.

[SnakeEyeSS]

I opened the high side port when charging so I wasted half a can and have to vacuum again. It just wouldn't take more than a few ounces or go over 27 psi low side(it's 96 degrees here). The line got Cold for a min and then went warm and zero progress.

Edited June 23, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[SnakeEyeSS]

Not sure what's happening, I just tried and now the compressor clutch isn't kicking on. Running vacuum again. I don't understand. The first time is sucked in some freon but then wouldn't charge, the second time it wouldn't take any freon at all even after attaching a can after it was run down to vacuum for 45 min.

 

 

If the third try doesn't work I'm taking it to a quick lube tomorrow to see if they can charge it.

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[Jsdirt]

Yeah, it's only going to charge to whatever pressure is in the can/keg - after that, you may need to jump the LPCO (low pressure cut off) switch to get the compressor to run, and draw the remaining charge in.

 

If the clutch still doesn't engage, check for power at the clutch coil. If there's power, check for magnetism at the clutch (not running, of course) with a feeler gauge or screwdriver - it should pull it in pretty strong. That would verify the coil is good, and that you need to remove some shims in the clutch because the clearance is too wide. Should be .020", or less without making a scraping sound.

 

If no power, check the LPCO first, and go backward from there.

Edited June 24, 2016 by Jsdirt

[SnakeEyeSS]

It worked fine the first time, it just stopped taking freon after 8 ounces or so, and the lines started warming up.

 

The second attempt the lines got HOT

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[Jsdirt]

Is the condenser fan kicking on? What is the high side pressure doing?

 

If the pressure spikes after a while, it could be due to lack of airflow across the condenser. Try hosing the condenser down with water - if the pressure drops like a rock, it's an airflow issue. You could be up against the HPCO.

 

If all the lines feel hot there could be alot of air in the system. If the system was opened to air under a vacuum, that would do it. Air in the gauge lines can do it too - gotta purge them with refrigerant before charging.

Edited June 24, 2016 by Jsdirt