What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today

[SnakeEyeSS]

I'm running it down to vacuum, disconnecting the manifold lines, and connecting freon to low side with another line.

 

 

This is maddening.

[SnakeEyeSS]

I'm taking it to a shop by my house that never treats the cars well when they work on them. If I'm lucky they will get it done before my doctors appointment tomorrow

[Jsdirt]

Are you using a manifold gauge set at all? If not, you are probably filling the vacuum with air before the charge even gets in.

 

Can't disconnect the high or low side when in a vacuum without introducing air to the system. Those should remain connected and closed, and the yellow hose should go from the vacuum pump to the refrigerant tank or can - then open the tank or can, crack the fitting at the manifold to purge air out, tighten, then slowly open the low side valve.

 

Normally around here I can get enough in to trip the LPCO, and get the compressor running. From there it charges pretty fast.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Well. Good sign, after 20 min running it started chugging a can. Ventvtemp has changed. Looks like 4th vacuum was a charm.

 

Anyone else notice this car just hates me? Seriously, my 6666 vin Honda should be the evil one.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Aaaaand mission successful. 24 oz capacity, Didn't get two full cans I don't think(honestly lost tracks after so many attempts but pressure is over 60 and it's probably 100+ in the garage since there is no breeze and the car was idling for 45 minutes.

 

 

Going to let it cool down and then go for a drive, if pressure is still that high when I get back I'll let out a little.

 

 

And yes I was using a manifold gauge until the last try. I think something is going on with that gauge, or a hose is plugged.

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[Jsdirt]

Check the inlet and outlet of the evaporator with your hand (as long as the expansion device is located outside the firewall) after letting it run several minutes to stabilize - if the outlet of the evap is slightly colder, or the same temperature as the inlet, then your good. If it's slightly colder, then you have plenty of refrigerant in the system in reserve in case of small leaks.

 

Monitor vent temps with a dial thermometer to gauge which direction your change made. I will add tiny bits at a time if the temp keeps dropping. When it stops dropping, I stop charging (if the expansion device is in the cabin side of the firewall - can't feel by hand).

Edited June 24, 2016 by Jsdirt

[SnakeEyeSS]

Check the inlet and outlet of the evaporator with your hand (as long as the expansion device is located outside the firewall) after letting it run several minutes to stabilize - if the outlet of the evap is slightly colder, or the same temperature as the inlet, then your good. If it's slightly colder, then you have plenty of refrigerant in the system in reserve in case of small leaks.

 

Monitor vent temps with a dial thermometer to gauge which direction your change made. I will add tiny bits at a time if the temp keeps dropping. When it stops dropping, I stop charging (if the expansion device is in the cabin side of the firewall - can't feel by hand).

Ok, I have had to jump the AC relay to make the compressor turn.

 

Edit, ignore the next few sentences until you read next post:

Think my pressure switch is bad? Every time I remove the jumper the compressor shuts down. Every time I jumper it it works great. I have swapped in a good relay and it makes no difference, it only works when jumped

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[SnakeEyeSS]

Ha I fixed it! I removed the sensor. Got my can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner, and attached the straw and stuck the straw in the tiny hole inside the sensor where it attaches to the Schrader valve. Few sprays, reattached the sensor and relay, and it works now. My guess is some oil got into the sensor and giving it bad readings.

 

 

Now, we get to see if there are any leaks. On the test drive it seems like the air temp got a bit warmer, and when I got back pressure were a lot lower. It may have been the system equalizing, but I put in dye anyway. After 5 minutes I checked with the light and couldn't find any leaks, so I'm hoping it's my delirium. I'm done with it for now, hope it lasts a day . Driving it to my rheumatologist tomorrow so I can get all the bad news at the same time.

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[SnakeEyeSS]

10 min into drive vent air temps were in the high 40s, 20 min in vent air temps were 40. (Temps taken while cruising). Sometimes I'll get a reading in the low 20s. Not sure if system is still settling or what.

 

Really hard to get a back of vent temp driving in a car with stiff suspension! (Using IR thermometer)

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[Jsdirt]

Nice - can't ask for much better than that. Nice work!

[SnakeEyeSS]

I kept adding to my amount until I hit 55-57 psi and vent temps started inching up(90 degrees ambient), so time to stop. Looks like sweet spot is 50-53 in high 80s.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Just got the new motor trend, 4 cylinder Mustang vs 4 cylinder Camaro. The Camaro is obviously underrated, it whoops up on the Mustang in a straight line, and when MT put on better tires to match the mustangs, it killed it on a road course. What I want to see ia the V6 Mustang and ecoboost Mustang. I'd be a little worried the Camaro 4 is a little strung out. Doubt they will still run great amd smooth in 220k miles like my LS1 does.

Edited June 24, 2016 by SnakeEyes

[KARNUT]

Unless your driving is most on highways, I can't imagine those strung out 4clinders lasting much passed 150k, especially a stick. Last as long as a LT1 or any LS engine never.

[Jsdirt]

I agree. I think we're seeing the dawning of the age of the throwaway engine.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Wait until they figure out how to make it biodegradable.

 

I can see it now: "super compressed biofoam is basis for new engine block".

Edited June 25, 2016 by SnakeEyes