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Posted

I've used heat guns on plastic before - can't even tell there was a dent afterward.

Posted (edited)

it's all over. The shop that specializes in removing busted bolts said they can't make a dent in it they don't know what's going on with it.

 

I would really appreciate any ideas on what to do with the car next, parting it out is my only idea. Besides driving it and hope it holds together for a while

 

Edit:they said try a body shop, so I ran by one I have used before. They told me there are ways to fix it, they just don't know how much or how long it would take, so they can't give an estimate, and would likely involve cutting into the car.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Photo from FB thought there was only 2

 

129544ff39d4996fffa04f365ea56098.jpg

 

 

Ryan

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I ordered a "rescue bit".

"The only drill bit designed to drill through bit extractors"

 

If I can just make a hole the welder can do the rest. I will pull off the dust cover again and start soaking the bolt with PB50 AND WD40 daily until the bit gets here, than keep going until the extractor stuff gets here.

 

If I can make a hole I will try a tap wrench style bit extractor myself, since at that point I will know first hand a rescue bit works on extractors. I'm afraid if I take it BACK I will get charged for the labor the first time(they didn't charge me since they couldn't get anything done today, though they tried, it's a good shop, so I wouldn't blame them or be upset if they did). But if I get charged a few hundred that still better than junking the car eventually.

 

Edit:

I'm thinking maybe my best option is to just destroy the bolt and rethread rather than try anther extractor. But if the rescue bit makes quick work of the extractor, I won't be worried about having do it again since I will know what works.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Have you tried any of that freeze off stuff?

 

Additionally, if you have a buddy with the trusty ol' blue torch, that's worth a shot.

 

Good luck dude. Hate to see such a nice car reach the end of the road early because of a dumb bolt.

Posted

Can you get a pick of the problem? There are other ways to work around this, but it's labour intensive and involves dropping the struts, K-member, and subframe from the car with the engine attached (sounds a lot worse than it is - this is the way most guys do H/C installs, and definitely the only way to do a motor swap.

Posted (edited)

Can you get a pick of the problem? There are other ways to work around this, but it's labour intensive and involves dropping the struts, K-member, and subframe from the car with the engine attached (sounds a lot worse than it is - this is the way most guys do H/C installs, and definitely the only way to do a motor swap.

I think you missed the last few weeks of this thread. I was a few bolts from being able to drop everything. Changed oil pan gasket and motor mounts, that's when the bolt broke, during that work.

 

I decided to just keep driving it for now, literally nothing more to lose. Waiting on the rescue bit. Hope it works.

 

I know it CAN be removed, everyone(mechanics) kept telling me a body shop is the only sure way, told me it's a open end job(blank check, don't know how much until they are done). It's a 14 year old car with no options(1SC/1SZ) and 220k miles, not worth a job like that.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted (edited)

Finally put a flywheel dust cover back on by the starter. Have to remove starter, almost forgot to disconnect battery in time.

 

Looked over the pan gasket, looks great as far as I can tell. At least I can say I conquered that beast.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Yeah definitely new here so no I don't know all the details. Owned a 4th gen for 16 years though, and very familiar with what works and doesn't.

 

I'm just trying to figure out what bolt is holding you up and what you are trying to accomplish in an effort to help you out - sorry for being a newbie here :cheers:

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yeah definitely new here so no I don't know all the details. Owned a 4th gen for 16 years though, and very familiar with what works and doesn't.

 

I'm just trying to figure out what bolt is holding you up and what you are trying to accomplish in an effort to help you out - sorry for being a newbie here :cheers:

No problem, its the rearmost K member bolt on passenger side.

 

YambixI.jpg

 

Hopefully the rescue bit will be here soon so I can destroy this thing. Have a helicoil kit and a tap wrench(already have a M12 x 1.75 tap) in my Amazon cart just waiting to be ordered if I need to.

Edited by SnakeEyes
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Rescue bit works! Should have bought the next size up, but it is chewing through it pretty easy. The tip did break off of one size within a few minutes, but it's still eating the 10.9 F bolt, but may be because my drill just isn't fast enough.

1/3 to half way through as of now, just 3+ minutes of actual drilling

 

Edit, another chunk broke off rescue bit but now that the extractor is gone my titanium coated cobalt bit is working on the bolt pretty well. (Didn't do squat to the extractor)

 

Edit 2: ugh the reg bit progress takes forever, changing back and hoping it gets through without side 2 breaking. 2/3rds. Have to take a break because Arthritis sucks.

Edited by SnakeEyes
  • Like 2
Posted

I can see light through the bolt. Going to get some left handed bits and and extractors at lowes and try again. If they won't remove the bolt the shop can get it out for me. If I have to buy another rescue bit I might still come out ahead

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

It's been riding anyway. Figured I'd get some value out of it.

 

 

But another downturn: using a breaker bar, I'm pretty sure I was using over 100ft pounds of torque, and the remnants of the bolt wouldn't budge(so I stopped before another extractor broke), I drilled bigger but took out first 5 threads or so(and my two best drill bits broke so I'm done for the night.) I figure I have two options now:

 

Keep drilling what's left and hope I can HeliCoil it, (or Time Cert, $60 more but is a complete kit and supposedly stronger)

 

Or

 

 

I have knocked an hour or two off of labor so I can call the welder's shop and see if he thinks he can burn it out now. He told me he needed a hole to do it.

Opinions?

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

I've been using Time-Sert for 16 years now - never had one fail. The insert will be stronger than anything around it. Best of the best. Only downside is it's price. On something critical like that, money shouldn't be an object, IMO.

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