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Posted

I had to use a friggin air chisel on the steering shaft in our Volvo 940, just to swap a rack. What a pain in the ass.

Posted

Well, I ended up loosening the starter and unbolting the AC Compressor, and just resting it on the Sway bar. Also got the nuts off the motor mounts. Today is removing the mount bolts. was reading to loosen the trans mount can give some play, hope I don't have too just because that's one more thing to remember :lol:

Posted (edited)

"Red/green" engine hoist. (Scissor jack and wood)

 

 

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Before you think I'm going to kill myself:

 

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Two three or 4 ton stands on the front of car, one 3 ton jack under the bellhousing

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Ruh-roh. K member bolt just snapped. Hi ho, hi ho, off to Lowe's we go. Dealer can't get any specs on the bolt.

Posted

Discovered my GrandSport has a pinhole leak in the rad :nonod:

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

YambixI.jpg

 

Taking it to a muffler shop Tuesday(was told they have THE go to welder in the area for a job like this), they are cutting out the bolt from the frame and "putting it back together"(2-3 hours at $80 an hour, but I have never been charged the high end of the estimate there before, they only charged a few hours to do the headers on the Tahoe). Place is well known around here, I've been there several times, and the shop that worked on the Z28 last time recommend them for this since a standard mechanic could take hours of labor to just get the bolt out, and he thought they might end up doing the same as a last resort. I'm hoping they just told me the worst case and don't have to do frame surgery once they see it.

 

Today I got the motor mounts mostly apart(why does GM rivet so many wear parts? I'm sick of drilling!). They are BAD. New mounts should be in tomorrow, then the job of putting most of the front end together again. I'll at least run it a while to see if the new pan gasket is holding up.

 

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Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Guess I have to ask ... what is a "k member"? Thought you were talking about a crossmember.

 

Seems you could just drill it bigger (easier said than done, I know), and use an oversized bolt.

Posted (edited)

Guess I have to ask ... what is a "k member"? Thought you were talking about a crossmember.

 

Seems you could just drill it bigger (easier said than done, I know), and use an oversized bolt.

It's the subframe.

 

From wiki:

A "K" member is a crossmember in a vehicle with a longitudinally- mounted engine, contains the engine mounts.

 

I had several mechanics lose hope and interest when they found out a extractor was already broken off in it.

 

 

Needless to say my idea of working an a project(front end anyway) is gone again for a while. Yeah, I got everything done, but this shows how one thing going wrong or one simple wrong turn and everything goes to crap. I was listening to a past Smoking Tire and Matt Farrah was talking about how he will just pay someone from now on because Everytime he works on a car something goes horribly wrong and it ends up at a shop anyway. Wonder if we are related.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Ahh, never heard the term before, nor have I seen it.

 

It seems impossible, but with good bits, it can be drilled out .. BUT .. you are going to need the patience of a Saint.

 

I spent 2 FULL days on that Dodge Omni drilling my busted extractor out. Eventually I was able to grab the extractor with needle nose and twist it out. It was a day from hell. I can't remember how many drill bits I went through, but it was alot. Funny side-note is, I still own that same drill ... and it still works! Must've put 24 hours on that thing in less than 2 days, easy.

 

The hole will be mangled, but you can weld the excess, drill, tap, and install a Time-Sert or Helicoil. Will be as good as new. Most difficult part will be getting it close to where it needs to be, as far as the original hole's location.

Posted

I don't have the joints to hold the drill up with pressure that long. If someone can get it out in a few hours, sweet!

Posted

 

 

Today I got the motor mounts mostly apart(why does GM rivet so many wear parts? I'm sick of drilling!).

 

How about it, it's really irritating after a while of drilling. It seems like it takes FOREVER.

Posted

Why not use a cutoff wheel and pop them out with a punch?

I did try, but the punch only broke them slightly loose, they didn't want to come out.

Posted (edited)

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Poly!

 

They are much bigger than the stock rubber inserts. And since one of the old ones was shot I hope it's smoother.

 

 

Just putting humpty back together again. comically, when I used that piece of wood to raise the engine it lifted the front half of the car off the jack stands. I also got smart and put the mount hinge bolt in and then bolted the base down instead of the other way trying to line up the holes on the hinge and poly mount.

 

 

Why did I want a project again? If that friggin pan gasket goes bad again, it's someone else's turn(that offers a warranty!). I'm already becoming too familiar too fast with the car.

Edited by SnakeEyes

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