Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
What makes you think that?

 

Based on Txsweettea3's post that the same problem was observed on all 5 Ford Expeditions they drove. I did some google searching and yea, this issue isn't unique to the 2015 Yukon/Tahoe/Suburban.

Posted
What makes you think that?

 

Based on Txsweettea3's post that the same problem was observed on all 5 Ford Expeditions they drove. I did some google searching and yea, this issue isn't unique to the 2015 Yukon/Tahoe/Suburban.

 

 

Link?

Posted

Here's the deal: 3 of the 3 were stuffed with a material like a foam ear plug. The one in the rear was falling out and lead to the ear pressure again. The two in front were secure still. I have since taken them all out. Seriously, $80k. F this. Taking to dealer again tomorrow. Here are some pics as requested:

post-133828-0-39175300-1423493846.jpg

post-133828-0-89275000-1423493853.jpg

post-133828-0-77632600-1423493859.jpg

post-133828-0-39175300-1423493846.jpg

post-133828-0-89275000-1423493853.jpg

post-133828-0-77632600-1423493859.jpg

post-133828-0-39175300-1423493846.jpg

post-133828-0-89275000-1423493853.jpg

post-133828-0-77632600-1423493859.jpg

post-133828-0-39175300-1423493846.jpg

post-133828-0-89275000-1423493853.jpg

post-133828-0-77632600-1423493859.jpg

Posted

@jasondenali15: This is with your second Denali, the 2015i - correct?

 

--

Marc

Yes. I was a fool to think I could trust a company basically run by the government. I will never buy GM again. Gotta run, I have a doctor's appointment for the unending headache and dizziness caused by this vehicle.

Posted

Jasondenali15 – wrench mentioned dealers look at you folks as “buffoons” and “idiots” for trying to get some relief by using cotton or foam for this issue, so I won’t suggest another option. You stated in an earlier post that the plugs worked. Put the plugs back in and tape them in place this time, maybe the one falling out compensated for the other two. Doing nothing while still driving the truck will make your situation worse. Also, a post identified a dealer who changed out the rear end and the problem was solved, ask your dealer about this.

Posted

I agree, they probably do think we are buffoons or idiots. I certainly am. I bought the same vehicle twice in hopes they solved the issue from the initial launch. I am loyal to a fault, I suppose...

 

It seemed like the plugs did work with the pressure initially...perhaps until the one became loose. Having said that, the noise from the transmission was exceptionally loud. It was embarrassingly loud. I took a client out to lunch and he walked away saying it was the loudest vehicle he has ever been in. I am just not going to compromise comfort any longer with this vehicle. For $80 grand, I can drive countless other luxury-type vehicles without compromising anything.

 

I will ask about the rear end tomorrow...I have no idea what that means, but I will ask. I certainly appreciate the suggestions.

 

Sadly, we have to come to a forum full of people willing to come up with a solution and are trying new things. You guys are awesome! The people who made this flawed product are nowhere to be found on this thread anymore. Their lack of responses to our posts shows them as complicit to hiding something...the truth.

Posted (edited)

jasondenali15 - I'll send you a private message later this evening. Transmission louder after the plugs, correct?

Edited by The Zip
Posted

Man, I'd love to ride in your Yukon to hear this for myself. I'm about to spend $60K on a Yukon XL SLT or a Suburban Z71, seriouslly hope I don't experience this. I'm in a rental 2015 Burb LT right now and I think it's just fine.

Posted

Here's the deal: 3 of the 3 were stuffed with a material like a foam ear plug. The one in the rear was falling out and lead to the ear pressure again. The two in front were secure still. I have since taken them all out. Seriously, $80k. F this. Taking to dealer again tomorrow. Here are some pics as requested:

 

That is certainly not enough material to "mute" the microphones. Ultimately, it does looks better, but if you're still getting dizzy, go aggressive (and ugly) and shove a bunch of cotton around the entire microphone and base - not just the inner ring.

Posted

jasondenali15 - that does make sense to me. Compared to driving before the plugs, what percent did the plugs (when first installed) decrease pressure? What percent did they (when first installed) increase noise? I'm guessing 90% both ways. The increased (noise) and decreased (pressure) occurrence should have been very close if not simultaneous.

Posted

Jasondenali15 – wrench mentioned dealers look at you folks as “buffoons” and “idiots” for trying to get some relief by using cotton or foam for this issue, so I won’t suggest another option. You stated in an earlier post that the plugs worked. Put the plugs back in and tape them in place this time, maybe the one falling out compensated for the other two. Doing nothing while still driving the truck will make your situation worse. Also, a post identified a dealer who changed out the rear end and the problem was solved, ask your dealer about this.

 

Fellas, I sincerely apologize for my comments about looking like "buffons and idiots". I do not think anyone experiencing this problem are either. I was was merely trying to make a point about how GM and the dealers view the customers. I made the mistake of mentioning this Forum at my delaership to say I was not the only person with this issue (of course they said they never heard of the issue!!) and they all rolled their eyes at me. So, I was trying to keep us as factual and scientific as possible to avoid them from have such a terrible reaction. Sorry I chose the wrong words.

 

That said, I have had zero success with any tampering with the ANC. In fact, it makes the situation slightly worse in my vehicle and I meaaured the difference with a sound analyzer, so I have quantitative data. And, I definitely noticed more other noise, such as wind and mechanical noises from the drivetrain. Jasondenali15, that might be your situation??

 

At the end of the day, whatever you can do to alleviate the noise/pressure, the you gotta do what you gotta do. I'm just sharing what I've done and observed.

  • Like 1
Posted

jasondenali15 - that does make sense to me. Compared to driving before the plugs, what percent did the plugs (when first installed) decrease pressure? What percent did they (when first installed) increase noise? I'm guessing 90% both ways. The increased (noise) and decreased (pressure) occurrence should have been very close if not simultaneous.

You are right on the money with that assessment. One givith, one taketh away sort of speak.

Posted

I was wondering if you guys have a roof rack with the cross bars installed? I was one of the first to get the 15 Suburban and had that wind buffeting in cabin drone noise...I installed the roof cross bars and I'm not sure if that solved my issue or if it was when the dealer replaced my side roof bar.

Posted

Hi all, new to forum, but not new to Chevys. I am in the market for a new tow vehicle for a new boat I have coming in the spring. I have had a 2007 ltz Tahoe and now a 2011 ltz suburban, both of which have been excellent high mileage vehicles for me. I am / was in the market for another ltz suburban but this thread has me completely freaked out over potential next purchase. I drove one today trying to hear what others on here have experienced, I did not replicate it with the one I was driving. My question is are the ones prone to this born with it so to speak and you hear the issue from day one, or does something "break" over time. The one I drove did not have the issues spoke of on this forum at present, but not sure if they will develop and admittedly the one I drove (build date of October 30 2014) does not have all of the options (and color) that I would like to have....any input on this is greatly appreciated as to what I might expect next.....thanks in advance for your guidance!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...