Lights behind grill

[KUUG]

2014 Silverado LTZ Z71

Aurora LED 30" single row combo beam

http://www.auroraledusa.com/SINGLE-ROW?product_id=62

Mounted to the rad supports

 

 

 

Did you happen to take any picture before you put the grill back on?

[nando87]

Interested in this as well, I have a pretty good idea on how I'm going to mount mine but my LED Bar is pretty "wide" (back of led bar to the front). It would be nice to see another LED bar mounted to the supports for reference.

[nando87]

What's the difference between the less expensive light bars on eBay vs the more expensive ones on auto anything and other places?

I looked into some of the other expensive brands and from what I found they are "better" but not 10x the cost better.

 

Yes, they are brighter but not by that large of a margin.

 

IP68 water proof, Yes, but so are the cheap ones now.

 

Even if you only get 2yrs out of a cheap one, just buy another. Hell you can buy 10 for the price of one lol

 

Each to their own, If I had the money I'd probably buy a "name" brand just to have it. But I've never been impressed enough by a name brands lighting output to go out and buy vs. the cheap ones.

 

I just bought my 30" Double Row Combo pattern with wiring harness for $90 shipped! That's a steal!!!

[KUUG]

I just bought my 30" Double Row Combo pattern with wiring harness for $90 shipped! That's a steal!!!

 

Where did you get that deal at?

 

Edit

Never mind I forgot you already posted the link in the other thread

[Wormydog1724]

I bought the same light bar yesterday. It's cheap and I figure it should last as long as I have the truck.

[Spurshot]

Amazing performance for the buck.

[Wormydog1724]

I figure if it doesn't last, I can buy about 4 more for the price of one of the brand name ones. Sure I won't go through 4 in two years.

[Spurshot]

I need to justify my expensive purchase just the same as anyone that buys a less expensive product. I've rarely been satisfied with the least expensive product I could find. High quality makes me happy.

[Wormydog1724]

I'm the same way with my guns. No I don't need the ACOG or Nightforce, but they're quality and I know they'll last no matter what.

 

So I probably should have saved for the brand name light bar. Dammit now I'm second guessing that purchase.

[Spurshot]

Ahh. Dont sweat the small stuff.

[colton_m]

 

Did you happen to take any picture before you put the grill back on?

I did not, but I have to adjust the light about 1/4" higher so I'll snap some pics this weekend when I pull it apart again.

[Wormydog1724]

Could you video the grill removal process?

[Spurshot]

To remove the grill on a Sierra:

1. Remove the front screw and probably the next one back on the fender well trim and pull the trim outward to pop the clips loose.
2. Just inside the metal fender, there is a 7mm hex head screw that is vertical (up) that retains the upper bumper façade corner. Remove it.
3. Pull outward on the upper bumper façade until it pops loose
4. Continue to pull out/forward/upward as you go around the façade and the clips will come loose. If you’re chicken, you can unsnap most of them from underneath, but it’ll cost you some skin.
5. Once the upper bumper façade is removed, the lower bolts of the grill frame are exposed. Remove the 4 bolts (10mm head)
6. Remove all the push pin style clips on the top of the radiator cover. Lift it off
7. There are 4 more bolts (10mm head) holding the upper part of the grill frame that should be exposed. Remove them.
8. Starting on one side or the other, push down on the metal tabs extending from under where the upper grill frame bolts were removed. As you push down on two of the tabs, pull forward slightly to unlatch a lock tab. Do this to the remain two tabs. Pull forward on the upper part of the grill frame which will unsnap 4 clips in the middle of the grill. It should come off into your hands.

[Wormydog1724]

Thanks!

[TKhawk01]

Here is the mock up of my mictuning 37" bar. I need to cut the vertical plastic pieces out a little to make some room in order to get the grill back on to do the final fitment. Then I'll bolt it to the angled supports that it's zip tied to. I've also still got to find a good spot to tie into the high beam trigger circuit.