Jump to content

2014 Sierra factory lift block


Recommended Posts

Check out the modifications section and look at the lowering thread. Several folks have done it, including me, and it doesn't effect the ride at all or load carrying capability. It will of course squat lower if you hook 9k lbs to it, but I pull my bass boat EVERY weekend and it doesn't effect anything at all. I took mine a few steps beyond just removing the factory block and also used 2" drop shackles and lowered the front 2". I like it. And it is 4WD in case of inclement weather or I hang the boat trailer off the end of a short ramp during the winter months.

 

20140411_164534_zps6cc8a4fb.jpg

20140703_080640_zps3aa5919e.jpg

What did you use to lower the front?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I lowered the front using Rough Country's 2" drop lower strut mount. I lowered it about 1 week after buying the truck and have over 10k miles with absolutely no issues at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I lowered the front using Rough Country's 2" drop lower strut mount. I lowered it about 1 week after buying the truck and have over 10k miles with absolutely no issues at all.

Thanks! I am still debating on going lower or evening leveling. Like you the only reason I need a 4wd is for boat ramps. The only thing is sometimes where I put my seadoo in it is pretty rought..pretty much off a bank lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard that man! We have a few around here that when you pull up and look at it you question what in the hell were you thinking! But being it's a Seadoo, I'd say you won't have any problems at all if you did decide to lower the back or even the whole truck just a few inches. I lowered my previous 2013 crew cab truck 4/5 and my only concern was bottoming out the frame (and unloading the tires) of the truck on the crest of the ramps, but the frame never hit although it was pretty close on a short and steep ramp that I frequently launch from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard that man! We have a few around here that when you pull up and look at it you question what in the hell were you thinking! But being it's a Seadoo, I'd say you won't have any problems at all if you did decide to lower the back or even the whole truck just a few inches. I lowered my previous 2013 crew cab truck 4/5 and my only concern was bottoming out the frame (and unloading the tires) of the truck on the crest of the ramps, but the frame never hit although it was pretty close on a short and steep ramp that I frequently launch from.

 

We def have that. This is a pic of my old 13 silverado and where I put in at my moms house. You can see it's rough! but really a lowered truck could gently do it without scraping anything as long as it had some good tires. Me and my stepdad have re-positioned alot of the concrete slabs and it's much smoother.

SEADOOTRUCK_zpsf0893917.jpg

 

I did remove the rear blocks. I'm still torn...lower another few inches or just go ahead and level it back up and put some 33's on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Racerkvn- how is your ride quality compared to stock? I really like how it looks but the last lowered truck I owned (96 RCSB Ram with a 3/5 drop) was a nightmare on our crappy roads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i put my rear blocks back because it affected my ride. your shocks seem to have less travel and i bottomed or hit the bump stop a few times on rr tracks. was annoying and felt a little washy for normal driving so i put the block back and it drives normal again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's only 1 1/2 inch no problem with mine. My 92 has a 2-4 and it rides good ,on big bumps sometimes hits the stops.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine rides just as it did when it was factory height but I did cut my rear bump stops in half. Hauled a large fridge last week and it did just fine. And over the course of the last few months; hauled a LG front load washer and dryer with both stack stands in the bed, a load of gravel, SEVERAL loads of mulch, 2 big blocks a small block and a Turbo 400 (at the same time), a 225 Mercury outboard, all the essentials for a weekend trip away with an 18 month old baby (if you have a wife and kids you know how much stuff I'm talking about! LOL)... and I pull my boat every weekend, I've very rarely ever hit the bump stops. There is a big dip in the road that I frequently travel on my way to work and it will hit the bump stops if I'm running 55 mph or faster, but I just ease around it 90% of the time if traffic isn't coming. If you've ever had lowered vehicles before you know this maneuver LOL. With the washer/drayer/stands in the bed it hit the bump stops crossing a rough intersection but it was a soft limit kind of hit. If you think about it, the rear leaf springs are still in the same arc, which is the same spring rate, and the front struts haven't changed either with only the lower mount being repositioned. It can't technically ride any different if you take out the limiting factor equation. The rear limiting factor that comes into play with the bump stops and factory shock travel. By cutting the bump stops in half I still have shock travel to spare. One thing that is limited on the front end of upward travel (rebound), but even that hasn't effected me very much at all. As an added bonus, the tie rods and lower control arms are closer to being level. Which is where you want to be for full power 4wd launches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

 

same question here

YES! Having said that there will be a lot of thread sticking down, instead you can walk up to the GM parts counter and order U-bolts for a 2006 2wd 1500 and they will fit perfect!

 

Blocks are stupid!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.