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2001 Chevy Suburaban 1500 4x4 Vibration 70MPH


1500j

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Posted

Just a note on something I said earlier.

 

The driveshaft slip yoke has a keyway in the splines. From what I read online this is actually a "vent channel" Its there to take the suction out of the fit, so it can freely move in and out and not turn into a piston compressing and possibly binding.

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Posted

Great topic and discussion. It's refreshing to read posts regarding mechanical issues when someone with a wealth of knowledge responds in a regular and extremely helpful manner.

 

Beats talking about window tint or malfunctioning infotainment systems any day of the week.

Posted

The clunking is the yoke moving up and down in the tail shaft. Its clunking in that bushing.

 

Correct, as mentioned above, I've only replaced the rear UJoint on the driveshaft. The front one is still factory.

 

Ill probably just live with it unless I learn more about replacing that bushing. I think the bushing is cheap, it just getting it out of there.

 

I don't listen to the radio when I drive. So any vibration or squeak drives me nuts.

 

Nothing better than driving down the road in a smooth car/truck .

 

Thanks,

 

The hard part changing the bushing is trying to get new one in without damaging it. The bushings I have actually held and installed are not very thick. About 2 to 3 inches long and maybe 1/8 thick near as I can recall. That was a bushing out of either a 727 or 904LA TorqueFlite.

To install it I used an old slip yoke I had(I normally used it to plug off extension housing when removing the trans for service) by slipping old bushing on slip yoke, followed up by the new bushing. Then align new bushing with hole and press new bushing in. If you take a good look at it first, you maybe able to use the slip yoke with the new bushing on the yoke, then slide the yoke into the housing, and use that press out old bushing while it also installs new bushing. Pay attention to the area around the bushing in the housing, look for some form of a "stop" that prevents the bushing from going in too far or out too far. For this to work this way, you cannot have any form a stop or ledge or some other way of stopping bushing from moving in either direction.

Posted

When googling : "Extension Housing Bushing Vibration" I come up with several forums talking about replacing the bushing and that once done it cured some vibration issues.

 

Are the bushing for the 4x4 and the 2x4 suburbans the same? When I look it up I only see one part number and that part number sometimes has 2wd in the description.

 

AC DELCO Part Number shows up from what I can tell as: 24207915 or 24241501. I think its the same part just superseded. What I cannot tell is if they are the same in the 2wd and 4wd suburbans. It does not show the distinction.

 

 

Thanks

Posted

When googling : "Extension Housing Bushing Vibration" I come up with several forums talking about replacing the bushing and that once done it cured some vibration issues.

 

Are the bushing for the 4x4 and the 2x4 suburbans the same? When I look it up I only see one part number and that part number sometimes has 2wd in the description.

 

AC DELCO Part Number shows up from what I can tell as: 24207915 or 24241501. I think its the same part just superseded. What I cannot tell is if they are the same in the 2wd and 4wd suburbans. It does not show the distinction.

 

 

Thanks

 

I do not know if they are the same or not. Would make sense that they were the same, but, that usually ends up meaning they will be different. I would take the VIN into the local dealer's parts counter and give them the VIN and ask for extension housing bushing. They will be able to get the correct part number, and then the correct part. You could also compare the numbers you found to the one they found.

Posted

I just ordered the 24207915 AC Delco from amazon. For 6 bucks if its wrong ill give it to my wife and tell her its a designer bracelet.

Posted

I just ordered the 24207915 AC Delco from amazon. For 6 bucks if its wrong ill give it to my wife and tell her its a designer bracelet.

 

Be sure to put a slice along the length, and file smooth before giving it to her. You may want to clear coat it to stop the green staining as well.

Posted

I got bushing part number 24207915 today from amazon. It measures roughly 1.5 inches ID. The slip yoke on my suburban has an OD of 1.9 inches. I don't think this is the right part.

 

More research to come. Ill probably just stop by GM and see what they have.

Posted

Kind of a final update here.

 

Got the right bushing for the transfer case from GM for $10. Part # 15665313

 

The bushing took 80% of the slop out of the slip yoke going into the housing. In the video you could see it move. Now it does not flop in there as much.

 

The old bushing did not look too bad, it measured may be 10 thou wore at my best guess.

 

This cured 98% of my vibration now. Id say Im good to go again.

 

Thanks

Posted

Kind of a final update here.

 

Got the right bushing for the transfer case from GM for $10. Part # 15665313

 

The bushing took 80% of the slop out of the slip yoke going into the housing. In the video you could see it move. Now it does not flop in there as much.

 

The old bushing did not look too bad, it measured may be 10 thou wore at my best guess.

 

This cured 98% of my vibration now. Id say Im good to go again.

 

Thanks

Thanks for the reply!

Posted

Kind of a final update here.

 

Got the right bushing for the transfer case from GM for $10. Part # 15665313

 

The bushing took 80% of the slop out of the slip yoke going into the housing. In the video you could see it move. Now it does not flop in there as much.

 

The old bushing did not look too bad, it measured may be 10 thou wore at my best guess.

 

This cured 98% of my vibration now. Id say Im good to go again.

 

Thanks

I cant wait to balance my 02 sub 1 piece steel drive shaft, replace the slip yoke with nickel plated, and replace this bushing in the spring. Maybe even high performance u joints [emoji16].

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Another update today.

 

 

I had the feeling lately that the vibration was getting worse again. Im thinking its just in my head, but I crawled under there once again.

 

 

Grabbed the rear U-Joint and tried to move it around. It was moving. Like 30 thou back and forth in the yoke.

 

I took the driveshaft out of the way. Put an extra U joint in the Yoke and tightened it up. THE DARN STRAPS WERE NOT MAKING CONTACT.

 

The hold down straps were worn or stretched enough that they were not making enough contact with the U Joint.

 

I would mount it with the clips holding it centered and tighten it down. After 100 or so miles the bearing cups would rotate inside the strap letting making the location clips useless and allowing play.

 

 

SO for 6 dollars I fixed my problem. NEW STRAPS. WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THIS SOONER?

 

Probably never needed anything else.....

Posted

I would've never thought of that sitting in front of my computer screen. Good find. :cheers:

 

I learned a long time ago, when things start getting hopeless and aggravating, walk away and tackle it another day. Then when you come back all refreshed (and hungover ...), look at it from every angle, & think outside the box. Most problems will be solved that way.

 

Except with me and electronics. I get so pissed off I want to burn the vehicle .... :lol: I'd rather jet carbs and adjust points any day!

 

My buddy is still driving his Tahoe on 6 cylinders ... :sick:

Posted

Another update today.

 

 

I had the feeling lately that the vibration was getting worse again. Im thinking its just in my head, but I crawled under there once again.

 

 

Grabbed the rear U-Joint and tried to move it around. It was moving. Like 30 thou back and forth in the yoke.

 

I took the driveshaft out of the way. Put an extra U joint in the Yoke and tightened it up. THE DARN STRAPS WERE NOT MAKING CONTACT.

 

The hold down straps were worn or stretched enough that they were not making enough contact with the U Joint.

 

I would mount it with the clips holding it centered and tighten it down. After 100 or so miles the bearing cups would rotate inside the strap letting making the location clips useless and allowing play.

 

 

SO for 6 dollars I fixed my problem. NEW STRAPS. WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THIS SOONER?

 

Probably never needed anything else.....

What straps for the u joint? Whats the GM PN?

Posted

02sub,

 

I got my straps at O'Reilley's Auto Parts. They had a set there for $6.xx dollars. So far its great.

I will get under there tomorrow and check it again.

We leave for a 2000 mile road drip on Sunday. Glad I got it fixed before that.

 

It all make sense now, but never in a million years would I assume the straps were bad.

link:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/53010/01464.oap?year=2001&make=Chevrolet&model=Suburban%2B1500&vi=5015704&ck=Search_universal+joint+-+clamp%21s%21strap_5015704_659&keyword=universal+joint+-+clamp%21s%21strap

 

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