Jump to content

Heated seats not working when using remote start

td33

By td33
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

td33 Enthusiast

td33

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone new to forum, was wandering if anyone can tell me what the temperature needs to be so my heated seats turn on with remote start. It was 35 degrees last week and my heated seats weren't on when I got in the truck. They are set on Intell link to come on. Vibrations while driving now this, what else is going to go wrong.

 

Thanks!!

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

TJay74
TJay74

In order for the HVAC heat to work you have to leave the HVAC system on in the mode you will want to be used when remote starting the truck. This system does not work like prior GM vehicles where the

Isriam
Isriam

I thought the same, until this winter. Go to your truck and crank with key, turn it to HI, sync, auto. Then hit the fan power button to turn the system "off". Turn off then remote start the truck.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted (edited)

I believe this has been discussed before. They come on, they just do not get very hot like previous generations did. Just enough to take the chill out of the seat when you sit in it.

 

And once you insert the key, you will need to manually turn them on. Same with heated steering wheel. If equipped.

Edited by fondupot
td33 Enthusiast

td33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's odd mine felt ice cold when I got in. Didn't see heated seat lights on when I got in truck.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

It was found that the lights don't come on for the heated seats while in auto start mode.

emd645e3 Enthusiast

emd645e3

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are you turing on the heated seats before you turn the truck off? The option may be turned on in Intellelink, but the way it was explained to me is that you must have both the option turned on and the heated seats turned on before you turn the truck off if you wish to have them on when you remote start it next time.

 

Edit: Nevermind, just read the manual. They do not have to be turned on manually before shutting the truck off.

Edited by emd645e3
td33 Enthusiast

td33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies, maybe 35 degrees wasn't enough to turn the heat on. Will find out soon enough winter is almost here.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Straight from the Owners Manual:

 

In the Remote Vehicle Start Section 2-6

"If the Vehicle has heated seats and the feature is turned on in vehicle personalization, the heated seats will turn on during colder outside temperatures and will shut off when the key is turned to ON/RUN. See Heated and Cooled Front Seats on Page 3-8."

 

In the Heated and Cooled Front seats Section 3-8.

"During a remote start, the heated or cooled seats can be turned on automatically. When it's cold outside, the heated seats turn on, and when its hot outside the cooled seats turn on. The heated or cooled seats are canceled when the ignition is turned on. Press the heated or cooled seat button to use the heated or cooled seats after the vehicle is started.

 

"The heated or cooled seat indicator lights do not turn on during remote start. The temperature performance of an unoccupied seat may be reduced. This is normal. The heated or cooled seats will not turn on during a remote start unless they are enabled in the vehicle personalization menu."

 

 

Dunno what the temperature has to be for them to kick on automatically though. It was 31 degrees this morning and I let my truck remote start for about 5 minutes. I couldn't really tell the seat was on at all. My dads new 2014 Ram however the seats and steering wheel get nice and toasty after remote starting for 5 mins...

 

Oh well, they heat up fast enough when I actually turn the truck on though. Same with my heated steering wheel.

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Check your DIC menu to see if things are enabled and disabled as need be for remote start.

DougOhio Enthusiast

DougOhio

Posted
Posted

Excellent clarification on the topic. However I would like to know if there is a "code fix" by someone with a laptop and access-mods to heat up the seats even more upon remote start? I am pretty disappointed in the "barely warm" seats when the temp dips below freezing. P.S. My Sierra spends her nights outside in the driveway!! Too big to sleep next to mama's car in the garage.

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

i have this same issue. my heated seats are coming on with remote start,

 

or the heated steering wheels? is this in the manual also?

. Steering wheel is manual.
nytronorm New Member

nytronorm

Posted
Posted

I have not once noticed my heated seats coming on automatically and I had this truck all last winter(down to -35c). thats not all of my complaints either...

 

they wont turn on at all until the truck is actually moving, I can start the truck, turn the seats on manually and let it idle all day. The seats will be ice cold when i get in. These seats suck.

 

First world problems i guess! haha

 

Heated stearing wheel works good though.....

td33 Enthusiast

td33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have not once noticed my heated seats coming on automatically and I had this truck all last winter(down to -35c). thats not all of my complaints either...

 

they wont turn on at all until the truck is actually moving, I can start the truck, turn the seats on manually and let it idle all day. The seats will be ice cold when i get in. These seats suck.

 

First world problems i guess! haha

 

Heated stearing wheel works good though.....

Thanks for posting going to try this tomorrow morning, i'll report back with results.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

There is no one with any software and a laptop that can fix the heated seats issue other than maybe one person and that is Chris White. The seats are controlled by the BCM more than likely.

Isriam Enthusiast

Isriam

Posted
Posted

god if chris could fix the remote start, auto AC issue i'd pay him a grand.

 

i will say though that my seats come on if i remote start (light does not) and they feel warmer than the 35 degrees the back seats feel. that leads me to think they are just either not close to the top of the leather, or dont get as hot as other manufacturers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,238 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...