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Opinions Wanted: Wiring LED light bar, designated switch in cab or tie

GrnMtnRider

By GrnMtnRider
in Modifications & Accessories

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GrnMtnRider Enthusiast

GrnMtnRider

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, looking for insight and opinions from guys who currently have light bars installed. I have a T-Rex Torch Series Grille that will be here next week and want to have a game plan for when it comes in. I purchased the grille because I do a lot of driving in rural Vermont and wanted as much visibility at night as possible.

 

I am trying to decide if I should wire a dedicated switch inside of the cab and turn on the grille light manually or if I should tie it in to the factory High Beam circuit so that it comes on with them.

 

I apologize if there is already a thread covering this, I searched but couldn't find one. Please feel free to post a link if there is one. Thanks in advance.

Yamiryder Enthusiast

Yamiryder

Posted
Posted

I feel that it would be better to use a dedicated switch. The LED lights bars are so bright, you really can't use them on public roads. If you wired it into the high beam circuit, you could really only use your high beams off road. That's my thoughts.

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

My aux lights are wired to my high beams. When another vehicle is coming I switch to my low beams, just like I normally would. It's more convenient than a separate switch.

jaysen Enthusiast

jaysen

Posted
Posted

Grn, I purchased the same grille - thanks btw! Smokin' deal at $408... Anyway I'm in the same boat; debating on how I should wire. As it stands my high beams are useless with a leveling kit unless I'm trying to look through the window of my next door neighbors upstairs bedroom.

 

With that said I'm going to do an independent switch that way I can utilize fogs still when needed (plan on grabbing some rigid D2's eventually)

 

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

TKhawk01 Enthusiast

TKhawk01

Posted
Posted

I did both. I put in a dual throw switch, one way gets signal from the high beam, the other way is straight on.

Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

I did both. I put in a dual throw switch, one way gets signal from the high beam, the other way is straight on.

 

I like this idea alot. Do you mind sharing where you tapped into?

GrnMtnRider Enthusiast

GrnMtnRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did both. I put in a dual throw switch, one way gets signal from the high beam, the other way is straight on.

 

That is exactly what I was thinking about today. As Amiodynski said, would you mind sharing how you did it?

GrnMtnRider Enthusiast

GrnMtnRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Grn, I purchased the same grille - thanks btw! Smokin' deal at $408... Anyway I'm in the same boat; debating on how I should wire. As it stands my high beams are useless with a leveling kit unless I'm trying to look through the window of my next door neighbors upstairs bedroom.

 

With that said I'm going to do an independent switch that way I can utilize fogs still when needed (plan on grabbing some rigid D2's eventually)

 

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

 

I also plan on changing out my fogs. Not sure if you saw or not but another member on here found that he could use the Rigid fog light bracket for the Sierra's along with some flush mount LED's from Infinite Offroad. Here is a link to the lights he used: http://www.infiniteoffroad.com/#!product/prd1/2709198591/2%22-cree-led-flush-mount-light-24w

 

They are MUCH more affordable than the D2's, $80 for the pair. That along with a $50 mount from Rigid puts you into the whole setup cheaper than one D2 light. Here is a link to the page with his install: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/156170-led-fog-bulbs-lights/page-24?hl=fog%20lights

TBaganATX Enthusiast

TBaganATX

Posted
Posted

Just picked 2 sets of Pro Comp lights today( Made by Rigid) @ 4 WP at 129 each. Good lights.

TBaganATX Enthusiast

TBaganATX

Posted
Posted

Grn, I purchased the same grille - thanks btw! Smokin' deal at $408... Anyway I'm in the same boat; debating on how I should wire. As it stands my high beams are useless with a leveling kit unless I'm trying to look through the window of my next door neighbors upstairs bedroom.

 

With that said I'm going to do an independent switch that way I can utilize fogs still when needed (plan on grabbing some rigid D2's eventually)

 

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

Where did you get the grill for 408?
GrnMtnRider Enthusiast

GrnMtnRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Where did you get the grill for 408?

 

 

Sorry, just noticed they are all out of stock at that price. There were only 3 available when I ordered Wednesday. Still says that you can order at that price and it will ship when they come back in stock.

TKhawk01 Enthusiast

TKhawk01

Posted
Posted

If you have the bucket seats with center console there is just enough room for two, maybe three switches just below the latch but above the snap in holder. I used in line wire taps to tap into the wires going into the BCM. http://amzn.com/B000K2C53I For the first input, I taped into #18 in the brown connector, it is a ground signal. The other I ran to a ground under the center console. I pulled the wire in thru the firewall through the top of the main wiring grommet. I ran the wire to a relay I put behind the air box. Here is the switch: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SRJ24A3HBBNNvirtualkey54010000virtualkey540-SRJ24A3HBBNN . Remember if you also do the rear pods, they are a 12v+ trigger. Let me know if you have any questions.

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Amiodynski Enthusiast

Amiodynski

Posted
Posted

Love the way and where you mounted your switches. And thanks for sharing. I'm trying to follwo thru what you wrote out, and chance I can bother you to draw a quick scematic? Sorry if I'm asking too much, I can do better with a drawing then reading it.

TKhawk01 Enthusiast

TKhawk01

Posted
Posted

Does this help? I am using the ground trigger on the relay, so both the 12v in and the + trigger for the relay go to the battery.

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