Jump to content

Bilstein 5100 adj shocks (front and rear)

hokis
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 426
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckl1218
chuckl1218

Installed the rear 5100's today. Short test ride afterward. Smoothed out some bumps noticibly. This is while it was still on the jacks. Can't wait to install fronts now.

calgator73
calgator73

Just had mine put on front/rear.....rides amazing.   Update....the best comparison I can make is that the 5100s ride like factory autoride shocks on my denali....always composed. Several large spee

Spurshot
Spurshot

The rear shocks don't add any height. They are only shocks.   The front shocks accommodate the upper and lower OEM spring pad. The lower spring pad register location is controlled by a snap ring wh

Posted Images

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted (edited)

Be sure to do so. Get the 7000mt :) I just want to see how high they lift it.

No I agree it's not going to be that big of a difference. Just simply stating what I had read.

As to my comment about fox or king I was just conveying that I wasn't touting Bilstein as the end all be all. I and many others simply have heard more positives about them than rancho. They're obviously not comparable to a fox, king, icon, coil over.

I would like to try dirt logic coil overs or a 4" fabtech lift way down the road. It's about 2000-3000 for a 2" fabtech lift with coilovers or a 4".

The thing about the 7000mt is that they don't come with new coils, which is part of the reason I want the 9000xl. To me the 7000 sounds like its comparable to the 5100's.

 

If I had the money I would definitely get something nicer, a long travel kit would be awesome.

Edited by projectsummit
5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

I think the 7000mt is a direct competitor to the 5100. I almost went with them but couldn't find any info about them. I know they listed to fit my truck but couldn't find how much they would lift it.

 

Long travel suspension would be ideal. Just costly, but it would be epic.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Drove a little more this morning, about 10 miles or so. I took the truck to my local shop for an alignment.

 

I was driving pretty cautiously, carefully listing for clunks and the like (didn't hear anything). From what I can tell, the truck seems overall a lot better planted on the road. Rides nice on smooth roads and handles the bigger bumps and crappy roads A LOT better. I am definitly happy with the install.

  • Like 2
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

anyone add 5100 with leveling kit combo?

 

Not a good idea of stacking leveling kits.

  • Like 1
5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have to say i love these shocks. Granted i never did this with my Ranchos, but then again they were so bouncy i wouldn't have tried it. I was going down one of our turn roads at 40+ yesterday hitting bumps just to see how it would handle. It was impressive most bumps that would have me starting a vibrating bounce in the ranchos, the bilsteins floated over. The larger bumps are still there of course, it's not a coilover or med-long travel suspension setup but there isn't much jarring or displacement inside the cab. Color me a Bilstein fan. If they ever come out with a true coilover with remote res for 600$ a piece i'll be on it lol. I think years from now i am going to put a Bajakit long travel suspension kit on my truck and some more engine upgrades. Do i race? Nope. I'm just a suspension whore, would love to have that capability.

 

Really need to get a camera. It was beautiful yesterday on the farm and could've had some very nice pics if i wasn't stuck with a dad gum phone camera.

IMG_1524_zpsiyp3duyx.jpgIMG_1525_zpsibyhysa0.jpg

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 3
Newm Enthusiast

Newm

Posted
Posted

 

 

I'm just a suspension whore, would love to have that capability.

 

 

I had to laugh at this....only because I know what you are saying. I am starting down that path a$ well.

  • Like 1
redbeast24740 Enthusiast

redbeast24740

Posted
Posted

well I put them all on.. was a piece a cake.. the front went up around an 1.5 inchs not far enought for me.. but the ride is nice.. a little firmer.. seems to stick to the road better now.. handles turns better.. I think i will add a slight body lift to get the rest of the lift i want.. :)

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

Pics redbeast? I know some still look like they have a lot of rake. A particular member with a chevy still looked like he had over an inch of rake. I have about 1-1.3" of rake. Which is perfect to me. Looks pretty much level and i can still tow when i need too.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I was going over my front suspension over the weekend. Now that I have a couple hundred miles on the new shocks I wanted to go back and give the stuff I undid another torquing. Just to make sure everything is tight.

 

I went to check the torque on the tighten the center strut hat nut, but it basically just spins the threads along with it. The spec is 35 ft/lbs, which isn't exactly a whole lot. But I probably have about 4-5 threads showing on each strut hat nut. Is this normal? Can anyone else comment on the "tightness" of their strut hat nuts.

 

If you are wondering what nut I am talking about it is that center nut shown below, except now everything is installed on the truck and I was trying to check the torque on it.


a47ec90ff5230b3d9a7123709ae1c9f0.jpg

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

I'll try and look at mine tomorrow. Though i had the dealer do it, i'm not sure what they torqued them to. 35ft-lbs isn't much at all with no thread locking compound. I torque scope rings and actions screws more than that.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted (edited)

You will need to use two wrenches one thats offset to get down in the groove to tighten it down and one to hold the strut from spinning. They should be tightened down all the way with no threads showing.

Edited by projectsummit
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

You will need to use two wrenches one thats offset to get down in the groove to tighten it down and one to hold the strut from spinning. They should be tightened down all the way with no threads showing.

 

Well there has to be threads showing...when the nut tightens down it exposes more and more of the thread coming thru the strut hat.

 

The way I tightened mine off the truck, was with two wrenches. One holding the threads on the grooved part and another turning the nut. While I had the coil spring compressed, i tightened the nut down as much as I could by hand. But still am not able to actually "torque" it because of the way the strut is designed, You have to hold the grooved part, and that blocks a torque wrench from getting on.

 

All I am looking for is for people to post pics of what the top threads look like on their installed setups.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,689 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      Replacing 2.7L on 2021 Silverado with 2023 2.7L

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...