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Heated steering wheel

Dennisfiremanny
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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted (edited)

All other wires are there. Just missing the one from the fuse block X2 connector terminal 37 to the X201 connector terminal 41.

 

 

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Nice detail you provided here. So the (2) Pin connector that is down below in the wire loom that the clock spring connects to.... where does that go then? Does that connect to the mate end of the X201 connector?

 

 

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Edited by pgamboa
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redwngr
redwngr

Always figured they were a waste of money. Won't order without it now.

Isriam
Isriam

i use mine a lot. it only takes about 3 minutes to get too hot to hold, so i turn it off after that.   its funny how awesome the steering wheel warmer is and how terrible the seat warmers are.

jay15892
jay15892

I never thought I'd need a heated steering but now that I have one I would not want to live without it! Truly awesome in Alaskan winters..

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Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's routed inside the rest of the harness underneath. It's on the opposite side of the X201 connector. It's there just waiting for a power source.

 

This picture is the Yazaki terminal for X201 terminal 41.

0db9e3bcc9ba11f7e9cc81314b8e4ad8.jpg

Edited by Justin101714
  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's routed inside the rest of the harness underneath. It's on the opposite side of the X201 connector. It's there just waiting for a power source.

 

 

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Makes sense. Find it silly though that the (2) pin connector is there but doesn't make it all the way to the Fuse Panel. I did not have to run that wire for mine and my truck is a 2016 Silverado LT. Strange.... but very good detail. Nice!

 

 

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Edited by pgamboa
Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Makes sense. Find it silly though that the (2) pin connector is there but doesn't make it all the way to the Fuse Panel. I did not have to run that wire for mine and my truck is a 2016 Silverado LT. Strange.... but very good detail. Nice!

 

 

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Mine is a 2016 LT as well. Not sure as to why they make them differently. But that wire is definitely not there. Using a multimeter, you'll find power on both sides of that fuse, if you go to the 2 pin connector for the clock spring, you won't have any power. If you disconnect the X201 connector and look in that slot I circled in the picture above, you're more than likely gonna find theres no terminal in that cavity.

 

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Mine is a 2016 LT as well. Not sure as to why they make them differently. But that wire is definitely not there. Using a multimeter, you'll find power on both sides of that fuse, if you go to the 2 pin connector for the clock spring, you won't have any power. If you disconnect the X201 connector and look in that slot I circled in the picture above, you're more than likely gonna find theres no terminal in that cavity.

 

 

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This definitely help those that want to perform this upgrade and not assume power is present just because the 2-Pin connector is present. Good find! That X201 connector pretty high up in the dash above the BCM?

 

 

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Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

This definitely help those that want to perform this upgrade and not assume power is present just because the 2-Pin connector is present. Good find! That X201 connector pretty high up in the dash above the BCM?

 

 

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Just lay on your back on the floor, it's within arms reach above the BCM. Not hard to get to at all.

 

 

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carnut325 Enthusiast

carnut325

Posted
Posted

Mine is a 2016 LT as well. Not sure as to why they make them differently. But that wire is definitely not there. Using a multimeter, you'll find power on both sides of that fuse, if you go to the 2 pin connector for the clock spring, you won't have any power. If you disconnect the X201 connector and look in that slot I circled in the picture above, you're more than likely gonna find theres no terminal in that cavity.

 

 

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I think we found out if you have the adjustable pedals the wire is there. I didn't have one on mine so I just used a fuse tap. But I like this find and I think I will rewire to the back of the fuse box. Good work Justin

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Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Okay, got my little harness made with my two terminal ends ready to plug up. Used woven tape to protect the wire from chafing. Soldered both ends to ensure a good connection. All my parts are here, I'll update when I get it installed tomorrow more than likely.

 

560b0f988e5505bb5ae022780c34d837.jpg

 

 

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Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay, I decided to install the harness at least and check for power and ground. Got it all set up, running factory with the factory fuse. I have power and ground at the small 2 pin connector just like it's supposed to. All I have to do now is install my airbag coil and steering wheel and I'll be good to go! [emoji1417]

 

f4d9e1cb5f6349476ff2daecac61f845.jpg

Two clips hold the fuse panel in, you have to hold them down and pull the panel outward.

046994f13e96f27fa2fc20278f44d1f1.jpg

 

ba8d225507cc00139c835c07c45b2672.jpg

There are 4 clips surrounding the connector. You'll have to undo the clips and move the CPA downward about 1/8 inch. It stops by itself to another set of stops, DO NOT go past those stops.

7833fd9015482bf60b38d42a17345ce1.jpg

 

5079adc512fd308c784a91e0d69b90ce.jpg

I chose to install thicker gauge wire because it's a battery positive circuit.

b357340fb09b000700ea371fd5fe98ad.jpg

 

068c45622b9dd5a5ef1d20861d1365d0.jpg

The X203 connector above the BCM.

8a115081c23e3227756e7a41874c7fff.jpg

 

 

 

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Edited by Justin101714
  • Like 3
carnut325 Enthusiast

carnut325

Posted
Posted

Okay, I decided to install the harness at least and check for power and ground. Got it all set up, running factory with the factory fuse. I have power and ground at the small 2 pin connector just like it's supposed to. All I have to do now is install my airbag coil and steering wheel and I'll be good to go! [emoji1417]

 

f4d9e1cb5f6349476ff2daecac61f845.jpg

Two clips hold the fuse panel in, you have to hold them down and pull the panel outward.

046994f13e96f27fa2fc20278f44d1f1.jpg

 

ba8d225507cc00139c835c07c45b2672.jpg

There are 4 clips surrounding the connector. You'll have to undo the clips and move the CPA downward about 1/8 inch. It stops by itself to another set of stops, DO NOT go past those stops.

7833fd9015482bf60b38d42a17345ce1.jpg

 

5079adc512fd308c784a91e0d69b90ce.jpg

I chose to install thicker gauge wire because it's a battery positive circuit.

b357340fb09b000700ea371fd5fe98ad.jpg

 

068c45622b9dd5a5ef1d20861d1365d0.jpg

The X203 connector above the BCM.

8a115081c23e3227756e7a41874c7fff.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's awesome. I'm going to do that. Could you list the 2 terminals and where you bought them. That would be a lot of help. Great presentation by the way Thanks

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Terminal for the X201 connector - Yazaki 7114-4110-02

 

Terminated lead for X2 fuse block (comes in pack of 5) - 19301761

 

Bought both at my dealership.

The cost for both was around $20

 

 

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pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Terminal for the X201 connector - Yazaki 7114-4110-02

 

Terminated lead for X2 fuse block (comes in pack of 5) - 19301761

 

Bought both at my dealership.

The cost for both was around $20

 

 

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The dealer sold you Yazaki terminals by themselves? Hot damn! I find the pre-terminated lead to be overpriced and try to find the terminals by themselves from Mouser and crimp them myself. Then again, being able to get them immediately from the dealer... and not having to wait...

 

 

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Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

I work for that dealer. So as long as you provide the part number to them. The Yazaki terminal is in TRAY 9 by the way. Not all dealers keep the terminal trays these days

 

 

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